280ZX Appearance Exterior, Interior Discussions related to body kits, accessories, interiors, window tinting etc.
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Look what rolled out of my garage today, under it's own power

Old Dec 15, 2005 | 09:38 PM
  #26  
jfairladyz's Avatar
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Posts: 5,485
From: Temecula, CA
Shady, bondo SUCKS. It's good for filling small imperfections, but using it to blend and mold is two parts together is just asking for trouble. Get yourself some good epoxy resin and some fiberglass mat and use that to blend the panels together. Just fill the gap with resin and mat and then blend them together using more epoxy. Then you can either over do the resin and sand it down, or you can use body filler to get it just right. Filler is much easier to sand. I don't know what composites related shops you have up north of the border but there are plenty to choose from down here.

Thats the route I would take anyways to achieve longevity. Oh and by the way, the stuff you can by in the parts stores as fiberglass repair kits and what not will NOT work. Thats polyester resin and it doesnt bond very well to anything. Epoxy, on the other hand, will permanently bong to anything
Old Dec 15, 2005 | 09:42 PM
  #27  
RodMoyes's Avatar
Doesn't post much...
 
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 3,617
From: Escondido (San Diego) California
Originally Posted by jfairladyz
Epoxy, on the other hand, will permanently bong to anything
I didn't know Polly was such a stoner... what a shame.

Rod.
Old Dec 15, 2005 | 09:46 PM
  #28  
jfairladyz's Avatar
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From: Temecula, CA
Yeah well, ya know
Old Dec 15, 2005 | 10:05 PM
  #29  
Dorifto's Avatar
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From: Layton, UT
I tell ya what, just cracking open a tube of that stuff puts ya on cloud nine instantly. Dunno how easy [or healthy] huffing a solid object is though ...

I can see it now, some dude goes to the hospital with half a tube of epoxy in his nostrils, and claims it was an honest mistake.
Old Dec 15, 2005 | 10:35 PM
  #30  
Warren's Avatar
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Joined: Feb 2005
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From: Woodstock, GA
The key to getting them to NOT crack, is simple...PREPARATION and use of the RIGHT product... You simply sand down the surfaces using 36 grit wheels on a die grinder, so the bonding material has something to hold on to. Clean all surfaces with laquer thinner. Then you use 3M Panel Bond Epoxy...the same thing Ford dealership body shops use to glue replacement roof and other panels onto wrecked cars when they replace them. This stuff cures so hard and bonds so well, that if you try to remove it, you'll rip the steel before it lets go or cracks. EXPENSIVE? Yes. Easy to use? Yes. Would I use it again? Definitely. Once it's applied, smooth it out by block sanding it, 400, 800, 1600, and finally 2000 grit wet sand. Fill any imperfections from sanding with Evercoat (VERY THIN and VERY Liquid). You shouldn't need much if you did it right. Immediately clean and blow dry the exposed metal, then coat LIGHTLY with a good etching primer. Then wet sand, guide coat, wet sand, prime, wet sand, paint, wet sand and polish. You'll have NO problems with it cracking and your seams will be GONE FOREVER...just don't ever try to remove it. You'll dull a body saw in less than a heartbeat, however it can be ground or cut with a die grinder and cut off wheel. That's how the entire body kit was put on.

Now, to answer an earlier question about the side markers, yes, they are in deed Hyundai Excel markers. They require the existing openings to be elongated on one side (front or back of the hole), a new screw hole drilled (you'll be using only 1 of the original holes), squared with a small needle file and the plastic screw retaining insert either moved or replaced on the fender itself. Then, you will find that the curve on the back of the lense housing doesn't fit the fender curve too well, even with the foam gasket behind it. Just use a thicker foam gasket (you'll have to make it yourself using the original as a template). You'll also have to molest your stock wiring (on the original lights) to re-use the old connector, by grafting it in, so they will plug into the wiring harness of the car. Remember to SOLDER and heat shrink tube the connection. Note: Use of wire nuts on a car is just plain "chicken-****". Do it right or don't do it at all.

OK, now that all that has been said, I want to personally thank each and every one of you for your gracious comments regarding my project. I've taken my time, done everything ONCE (exept the door handles, I'm still undecided on white or black), the right way, and plan on enjoying the hell out of this car for quite a while. For a full writeup on the car, listing what's been done to it and see some of the parts in the engine compartment, you can CLICK HERE.

Thanks Guys,

Warren

Last edited by Warren; Dec 15, 2005 at 10:38 PM.
Old Dec 17, 2005 | 09:51 AM
  #31  
SHADY280's Avatar
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,499
From: Mission, British Columbia
Hey Thanks, I Used Urethane As The Adhesive And Didnt Like It. Then Skimed It With That Bondo Crap, It The Only Spot On My Car That Im Ashamed Of, The Adhesive Sounds Good. After That Ill Just Make Some Moulds And Then There Wont Be A Seam To Even Speak Of. Either That Or J Can Make Me Some. :d
Old Dec 31, 2005 | 01:16 AM
  #32  
ZedZilla's Avatar
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Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 239
From: Vancouver, BC
Mind Blowing!
Old Dec 31, 2005 | 07:28 PM
  #33  
Lost Vegaz's Avatar
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Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 445
Any more pics????

I'll start the chant!! MORE PICS, MORE PICS, MORE PICS, PICTURES? YES PLEASE, MORE PICS, MORE PICS, MORE PICS, PICTURES? YES PLEASE, MORE PICS
Old Dec 31, 2005 | 09:17 PM
  #34  
tickwon's Avatar
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 323
From: Lorena, TX
Man that is one sweet ride...like how you sdded the Mustang tail lights...I would have never thought. Very clean! Great job!
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