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Dry ice & insulation removal.

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Old Feb 6, 2008 | 08:52 AM
  #1  
2.8.0.Z.X's Avatar
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Post Dry ice & insulation removal.

Anyone know how much dry ice I'd need to get all the deadening/insulation material up? I bought 3lb to experiment with and only managed to get an 8in square up. (I was moving the ice around a lot though)

How long should you keep the ice on before attempting to scrape?

Any ideas on how to get dry ice to stay on the vertical surface of the tranny tunnel?

Thanks for any info.
Old Feb 6, 2008 | 09:14 AM
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I guess I've been living in the past too long??? I've never heard of using dry ice blocks to remove underbody coating / rubber guard. I have heard of dry ice BLASTING though...

Usually you use a HEAT gun to soften the rubber coating, then scrape it off.
Old Feb 6, 2008 | 09:32 AM
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i think he means on the inside, the crap under the carpet. not the undercoating. i used a metal brissle brush hand grinder. eats that crap up like cheerios


EDIT: wait, i think on the inside there is the rubber stuff as well not just the fabric. yeah same method worked as well.
Old Feb 6, 2008 | 09:33 AM
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Oops .. I meant the sticky material on the interior of the car. (not the underbody coating)

You let dry ice sit on it and it freezes and should come right up w/ a paint scraper.
Old Feb 6, 2008 | 09:40 AM
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yeah.... thats to involved, use a hand grinder that has the hard wire brush rotar on it. tares that crap up. thats how i did it. takes about 30 minutes and does smell. but well worth it.
Old Feb 6, 2008 | 09:41 AM
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Ok... so the carpet foam or the rubber strips? I just rip those out... no dry ice or heat... just a scraper.
Old Feb 6, 2008 | 09:57 AM
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The material directly against the metal of the floor. I don't think it's at all possible (at least in my car) to rip it out. It's very very sticky and would take days without at least dry ice. (or a grinder)

I think I'll try a grinder and see what happens.
Old Feb 6, 2008 | 11:20 AM
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Yeah try a paint rust stripper. I have one to put on the end of my drill. That does wonders for me. And probably what I will be using. When I start stripping my Z, for restoration.
Old Feb 6, 2008 | 01:33 PM
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in my experience the drill doesnt spin fast enough or have much weight to it for this kind of grinding. this stuff is very grappy so the hand grinder's speed and inertia was a big help with proper stripping of that tar paper like material
Old Feb 6, 2008 | 02:41 PM
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why do you need to take the stuff out?
Old Feb 6, 2008 | 03:20 PM
  #11  
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I'm taking it out to check for rust below. I'd rather have bare metal than that sticky crap that doesn't seem to serve much purpose.
Old Feb 6, 2008 | 03:24 PM
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wehn you take it down to bare metal remember to re-seal it with something. air and moisture are not friends of metal. i used a rust proof hard painty type spray sealant. light weight, not much sound proofing though.
Old Feb 6, 2008 | 04:34 PM
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i dont really see how it could rust under that stuff but what ever, i was thinkin of hosing down the inside with sound dampening undercoating.

local store is reducing automotive stock (ugh again) and i can get it for $2 a can
Old Feb 6, 2008 | 05:09 PM
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think of the weight!!!!!!
Old Feb 6, 2008 | 10:01 PM
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I just took that stuff out of our school drag racing car today. its an 1984 mustang gt. Its the black almost tar kinda material underneath the carpet, probably used to reduce heat and noise. dry ice works really well dont move it around just let it sit in one spot at a time. i got like 40 lbs of that **** out of the stang so you cant say it wont save you wait.
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