Z_Ferrari

Hey, i just got my car back from the paintshop. Looks very good from about 3 feet but it is rough from close up. I didnt expect better from a $300 paint job. It has three base coats and a "Euro Clear" which is a clearcoat thing. I was wondering if I could wetsand it and what grit paper would i use to get it to look good. I used 600 grit on my old paintjob and it really dulled the shine. Just looking for some tips, thanks

Scott

Scott

Z Ferrari

bowtieZ

ok....im not sure what is meant by a euro clear......i am assuming it is some sort of high solids clear........600 grit is too rough to start colr sanding with.....yeah it wont take very long.......but buffing/polishing it back out will.....and it will take off too much clear........what grit you start with really depends how "clean" the job is..... if you arre just wanting to get rid of the orange peel/gunfinish....start with 1200 grit......using a squeegee check you progress often....you are trying to make the whole surface uniformly dull.......it takes a lil patience and practice.......stay away from the edges......i am assuming you have the attitude that the time you spend on your car is really cheap labor...heheh......so next step is 1500...then on to 2000 grit.........once this is done....you can begin the buffing/polishing process......it is a tedious time consuming job.........i always hate doing it.......but if it is done right...it makes the diiference between an ok job..and a good job........so grab that bucket...and get to it.....
later

81_TURBO

Well as normal bowtieZ gave you the correct answer with what you need to do to get your clear coat to shine. As for the EuroClear-----That is just another Urethane Clear coat-------It is important for you to allow the clear coat to dry well before doing the color sand------I usually like to let the clear coat dry for a minimum of a week-----but you can get away with less time if the clear coat was baked in a booth or if the body shop used any dry enhancers to quicken the dry time.....the main thing you want to remember that any freshly painted paint is still soft for 6 months to a yr-------most paints takes a long time for them to be fully cured------they do cure fast on the outside but internally they take time---------the longer you wait to color sand and buff the better--------that is my opinion and experience-------the longer you let it go the harder it becomes to burn through the paint or the color sand to far---------------however i have color sanded and rubbed out a car 12 hrs after painting it-----------another thing to consider is that if you rush into doing the color sand and buff job to soon is that the job will look good temporarily-------what happens sometimes( not all the time) is that you will buff and do the color sand and it will look great for 4 months or so-----but the the paint/clear coat starts to fully cure and what happens it the buff job you did starts to dull--------which means you will have to re-buff the car----but not re-color sand it---------just remember that the longer you wait to color sand/buff the better------also take your time doing this work-------you do not have to have the surface completey smooth during the color sand since the buff job will finish the work---------stay away from the edges of fenders/hoods/doors and take it easy around and corner pieces like roof line/windshield merge---------color sanding and buffing a car is an artform which takes practice, practice, practice-----------Use 3M products they are the best when it comes to this process-----I recommend the Ultra fine Compund------and let the body shop help you with the glazing compound-----the glazing compounds do come in a few colors to help hind and left-over scratches------also get yourself some soft cloths and some hand rubbing compound so you can get the tender areas you want to stay away from with a machine buffer.......Ok-------good luck and take your time-------or pay a professional to do the work for you