Interior...
#1
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Interior...
I have a notion to finish the floors of my 72 240z with aluminum checkerplate. Basically the car would have a black interior, with aluminum accents. Obviously I'd be very thorough in making sure the floors were rustproofed well so that water trapped between the 2 surfaces wouldn't be a problem.
Just wondering what you all think about how the checkerplate floors would look. They'll be with a aluminum/black set of pedel covers, etc.
Just wondering what you all think about how the checkerplate floors would look. They'll be with a aluminum/black set of pedel covers, etc.
#2
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Re: Interior...
Drax-Would you sandwich some sort of insulator between the floor plate and the steel floor (it'll be kind of noisy otherwise, hot as well).
The brite finsh (Alloy 3003) would work well and be easily cut with a metal blade in a jig saw or sabre saw. Clever idea and, with an otherwise black interior, would look nice.
Send pics if you decide to do it.
Dan
The brite finsh (Alloy 3003) would work well and be easily cut with a metal blade in a jig saw or sabre saw. Clever idea and, with an otherwise black interior, would look nice.
Send pics if you decide to do it.
Dan
#3
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Re: Interior...
Insulator is a good idea, though I'd want it to be light. I was thinking about ways to fasten it down, and actually all things considered I am thinking velcro would work nicely. I'd screw it down but I want a really nice finish, and i don't really want to put holes in my floorboards. All the velcro would have to do is keep it from sliding. (And presuming I cut it right, I shouldn't have to worry about that at all)
Its not high on my list of things to do, but I do want to do it. Maybe I'll sandwich some dynamat in there when it all goes together.
Do you think the aluminum would need any type of clearcoat over it, or just leave it as is?
Its not high on my list of things to do, but I do want to do it. Maybe I'll sandwich some dynamat in there when it all goes together.
Do you think the aluminum would need any type of clearcoat over it, or just leave it as is?
#4
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Re: Interior...
Drax-If you get the 3003 alloy, its naturally bright finish. Its the same stuff you see on pickup trim, jeeps, boats, etc. I'll bet Russell Metals in BC carries the stuff. .080 would probably work fine.
I don't think clear coat is a good idea because it would quickly wear off the top edges of the raised diamonds. Then moisture would get underneath and cloud the clear (like my wheels) or, worse, etch the aluminum.
The dynamat is a good plan, perhaps you could stick it to the bottom of the plates and that way, it would remove when you remove the plates.
Sounds like a good idea, I may steal it.
Dan
I don't think clear coat is a good idea because it would quickly wear off the top edges of the raised diamonds. Then moisture would get underneath and cloud the clear (like my wheels) or, worse, etch the aluminum.
The dynamat is a good plan, perhaps you could stick it to the bottom of the plates and that way, it would remove when you remove the plates.
Sounds like a good idea, I may steal it.
Dan
#5
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Re: Interior...
Just something to think about, when aluminum and steel touch each other, there will be corosion.
Whoever re-did my Z before I got it had used aluminum to repair some body panels, and it was a BAD idea!, as the corosion between the two disimilar metals nearly ate away all of the alum.
Whoever re-did my Z before I got it had used aluminum to repair some body panels, and it was a BAD idea!, as the corosion between the two disimilar metals nearly ate away all of the alum.
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