Hi, I'm new here...
I'm planning to get a Z thats in the 1970's. I noticed that there are three types of Z. I'm planning to drive the car daily. Which one will be the good choice out of these two types?

-1978 280z 2+2 (Fuel injector)

-1974 260z (carb.)


Do they look the same?
Which one is better in performance, value, easy to maint.?

Which one would you chose if they were in equal condition?

Thanks alot for your help!

 

The Z you get depends on what you plan on doing. If all you want to due is drive it around then I would go with the injection of the 280Z. If you want to race it, I would go with the 240Z. The 240Z is the lightest of the bunch. The carbs how ever require a lot of TLC. I personally have owned every uear Z from 70-83. I prefer the 75-78 280Z for a drving car. For a performance race car I would go with a 240Z. I had 1 with a stock Carb package and one with the tripple Webers. There is just something about carbs that gives the car a better feel on the track. The injection is pretty much turn the key and go.

So there you have my 2 cents.

 

Thanks! I'm planning to drive it and make it a daily driver. I guess I will go for the 1978 280z, since it is easy to take care of compared to 240z/260z.

But in a way, I do want to tryout the "carb." cars, what kind of TLC does it require?

 

The 240Z & 260Z carbs are fussy and need to be adjusted and oiled properly. they are a nice setup but for a daily driver I just dont see it. I now drive a 78Z and I enjoy drivning it. It requires very little maintanance. I dont drive he as much now. I have an Avalanche and it is just more comfortable to drive in. Man I am getting old. I do take the Z out on the weekends and just drive some corners.

 

I've got the first-year 240Z, and while the carbs do need to be adjusted, at least in my experience, they're no less or more fussy than other carbs. In my case, since the mechanics around here can't deal with older cars, I've learned how to tune the dual carbs with a synchrometer (but then again, I'm one of those 'rare chicks', as my husband calls me, that LIKES to tinker with cars).

The older Zs are over 30 years, so yes, the carbs will need re-boring, etc, due mostly to age and wear and tear. But, the carbs don't need to re-adjusted all the time. My commute is 72 miles each way, and my little Z handles it like a trooper. The problem with the 240Z is that unless you get the car from a prior owner that pampered it, the electrical system might be cut and spliced, and rust can and will be an issue. Carbs aren't necessarily a big problem with this car, and are actually pretty easy to work on compared with other issues this oldest of the Zs can have.

That being said, for a first car that will be a daily driver, a 280Z is probably the way to go (I used to own a '78, automatic). But having a fuel-injection system will not mean that there will not be problems (ironically, the reason I sold the 280Z was because the fuel injection system was all messed up). Fuel injection gives a bit better mileage and more pep to the car (IMO), plus that wonderful exhaust smell won't waft back into the car.

I guess the point is that the ultimate decision is going to be the condition of the car as a whole, the frame, any rust issues, engine problems, leaks, comfort, etc. To the laymen, the 240-260-280Z look identical, so it's your choice as to what you prefer to deal with.

 

thanks alot for your help. I'll go with the 280z, Since I have my 1993 FD3S rx7 and i need a reliable daily driver.

 

but...i have 400hp rx7. I'm looking for a fun daily driver

 

The 240Z is the best handling Z car ever produced...In track prepped trim it gives instructors grey hairs by the dozens. They are never prepared for how much speed you can carry in the corners.

I have a 1972 240Z that is track prepared with original engine and carbs. It gets 140HP to the rear wheels on the dyno. It has had the basic springs/ struts/ bushings/ lowering treatment on stock suspension components.....

That car always impresses the instructors...they are always telling me to "take it a little slower" in the first session...by the end of the day they realize we started at 5/10ths speed through corners and worked up to carrying speeds through corners they did not think were possible in a cheap door slammer like the 240Z.

240Zs are a hobbyist's car though...You wont find mechanics that can properly tune the SU carbys or the points ignition system. They are by far the noisiest Z cars ever made...They rust fast...and the 240Zs offer little or no protection in a crash... The later model 280Z cars were safer, easier to keep in tune, and 600-800 pounds heavier than the original 240Z...

A 240Z with 200 HP will feel like a modern car with 400HP...They are just a hair over a ton and well balanced...nearly half the weight of the big front heavy, high HP cars today.

 

O O another 2+2 on the road.

 

Where do you get your information!? I have several shops in town that know these cars and do good work...one even specializes in them...even the name is The Z Clinic. Another shop has 3-4 of them that they race regularly so they obviously know them inside and out! I will agree that many places will have no clue, but there are certainly plenty of places and people out there that do know them as well.


Now for the purpose of this thread...I'd say go with the 280Z for what you are looking for. Personally I have a serise I 240Z (i.e. a 1970, the first year they were made) and love it but my plans are very different...I'm racing it. I don't think the people I work with would like me smelling like Z car exhaust every day.

 

Hey..There are a few shops here in Raleigh NC who can tune them and race them.
Soo...if you are lucky...you might have a specialist in your area...

They are still a hobbyist car though...Affordable copies need everything replaced to be a daily driver...or you will spend a fortune on townig costs and emergency repairs. Even a well sorted out Z-car will have a constant need for tuning and adjustment... Either learn to do it yourself...or you will be handing your paycheck over to your specialist mechanic.... The 280Z is a little bit more like a modern car...EFI keeps everything in tune for MUCH longer periods of time.

EX. 90% of the SU carbys that you see for sale need throttle shafts replaced and rebushed...This will play havoc with your idle speed...this is a constant pain in the *** and It costs $1000 in parts and labor to slap on some Z-therapy carbs. This is one of those things that may work fine in a track car...but are troublesome in traffic.

 

Again, not sure where you got that information but on their website they list a complete reman set for $595

Heck, even the Outlaws only cost $750

Now you will have shipping costs involved and some gaskets etc but still shouldn't be too much more than what the carbs will cost you. and if you have a spare set hanging around they will give you additional credit for those if you send them in!

Sorry man, I don't mean to pick on you but please make every effort to be accurate on at least state that you are guessing and not stating fact.

I do completely agree with going FI for a daily driver though!!

 

For GOD's sake...If you are not a competent mechanic...you will pay close to 1000 dollars AMERICAN money to have the carbs switched over by a competent mechanic... I bid labor on similar jobs all the time...read my lips...IT WILL COST $1000.00 American money by the time all the parts are ordered, shipped, and installed, tested, and tuned....You add it up buddy... this aint no one hour job...It is going to cost several hundred dollars in labor to get it done...My input for this whole thread has been for the perspective of someone who will need professional help...at least in the beggining...Hence..... I included labor in the costs...They are relative

 

You know by now that all jobs are not a smash and grab...super-duper, easy, slap and go finnish. Obviously you do not have a good grasp of what it actually takes to do a complete retune of a brandy-new set of carbys...It can take a lot of testing and tuning to get those suckers to work "just like the customer wanted".
There is a whole list of unrelated components that also need to be addressed before you can ensure that your customer will be happy with his new carbys.

You also know that everyone does not have a Datsun race car mechanic right down the street....


The 240Z is a hobbyist car... I have the proof I need... I get most of my early Z cars from people who can't afford to keep them running reliably enough to be the fun, daily-driver they desired...

 

I'm not going to jump in on the subtle nuances of carbs vs EFI, who's better tuned for the track, etc. But, I will note that in my experience, if altitude is a consideration, go with the EFI. I can, and have, made carbs work here in Boulder and the surrounding areas just fine, but my EFI cars have always required a lot less attention. Turn the key and I can point downhill to the coast, or go up and over our passes (12,000 feet in some cases), and it just plain works. I've found the EFI to be very tunable as well, but it's a completely different kind of work. Less mechanical and more electronics, but still quite tuneable (that MSA book about tuning and modifying Bosch systems is a good start, and buy a factory service manual).

You're going to be plenty happy with any either car. I'd say the biggest difference in the two you're looking at is whether or not you want a 2+2. I didn't used to like them. Now I'm thinking that after I finish my current project (a '78 Black Pearl coupe), I might really like to have a 2+2. I don't even have kids, and I still like the idea of a 4-seat Z, just for fun.

You can build any S30 Z to be a heck of a fun driver, street car, track machine, concours trailer queen, mod mobile, whatever you want. Any S30 Z has nearly unlimited potential in these areas. They show up in show and race standings, all different models and classes, all the time, 27 years after the last one was built.

My own personal rule, though, is that any car more than 15 years old that has seen relatively normal usage probably ought to be fully rebuilt/restored if you want it to be as reliable as a new car or trustworthy and top notch in racing. Which means doing it yourself or paying for someone else's efforts. But it's cheap (compared to a lot of other cars and other projects), and for my time and money, a lot of fun. You'll end up with a car you love that few other people have (be aware, they draw stares and a lot of attention) and for a lot less than other newer cars, and you'll have great performance, drivability and enjoyment.
good luck,
Dave

 

megasquirt systems?
I guess thats if you got money to toss around, but the 240z is a little easier to get more performance though. I went the route of a 280z recently. I bought it to be my one and only daily driver (not too bright). I love my 280z and right now its undergoing a restore to make it drivable everyday. I've never really had any problems with the car starting right up and mine's 29 years old. Great cars, you'll love your 280z if you get one.

 

I think one thing that's been overlooked throughout this thread is that there ARE reliability issues with the '73 240z and the '74 260z carbs known as the 'Flat Top' carbs.

These were the first feeble attempts to comply with emerging emissions requirements and are NOT acceptable as core's for ZTherapy.

Most people, if given the opportunity have already converted theirs to the earlier 'Round Top' carbs which are much more reliable.

My opinion... Go with the FI. It'll be less maintenance, but may be more expensive when the maintenance IS needed. 25+ year old electronics weren't the greatest design or as resistant to the effects of time either. Instead of changing needles and balancing the carbs, you'll spend time tracing wires and cleaning corrosion off the connectors.

Personally, I'd rather pay $500 once every 6 months and need a tow twice a year than $100 every month and a tow 12 times a year.

That being said, my '72 has survived a 98 mile round trip commute for the last three months with nary a problem. But, not counting my Z's I have 2 other 'modern' cars, less than 5 years old and a new truck with a 16" car hauler, so I don't have to worry about down time or towing fees either...