Shaving or surfacing the head and block won't increase your compression too much.

Stock torque, should be ok. Make sure your threads holes are clean, you can always check with a metric tap. I have use my head bolts over, but if your uncertain, you could purchase new.

Head gaskets usually don't affect the factory torque settings, but with some of the newer gasket materials, it may be something to check out? Again, there is opposing views on whether you oil or don't oil the head bolts threads. I usually use some light oil, and recheck the torque several times over a period of 10 - 12 hours.

When tighting, you want to do it in three stages. First time through, 29 lbs., second time 40 lbs., third time 60 lbs. Let it sit overnight, and then re-check the torgue at 60 lbs. Also, when you do your next valve adjustment, with the motor cold or cool, you could then again go over all of the head bolts at 60 lbs.

Thermostats use to be bad in the old days, and in the past we use to change them every one or two years. This will prevent the old dreaded overheating, resulting in warped aluminum heads and even possibly the block!

Hopefully, when they surfaced your head, they also removed the cam towers and surfaced the top of the head as well. Its possible to have the cam at a different angle to the crankshaft, which could result in cam/chain damage if your running lots of rpm's, or other abuse to your motor.

Shoot, there was one other thing? OH!, when the head is surfaced, you may need to advance the chain timing position to the 2 nd or third tooth setting, which was orginally used to take slack out of the timing chain, as the chain streaches. Hopefully you are using a new chain? Check, the slack, sit the first cylinder on top dead center, with the chain taunt/tight, check the position of the cam/gear & alignment of the cam sprocket with the locating plate. If it doesn't line up, try the 2 nd or 3 rd. cam positions.

Hope this helps!

Speed

Enjoy the Ride!