Well, opinions on what to use and what not to use?

I've heard that the industrial strength plastic fillers are pretty damn good... not the stuff you can buy in the parts store, but the stuff the body shops buy in bulk.

Is leading preferred? Fiberglass fillers?

I know the best solution is no filler at all, but I don't really have that kind of time and money.

 

there is absolutely nothing wrong with using body filler, as long as it is done properly, this means proper surface prep.....and the repair is allready made.....body filler should be used as a last effort to "save time" if compared to the amount of time to metal finish a panel. most ask how much is too much, it really comes down to how long you want it to last, i have seen poor repair work with filler over and inch deep!!!! might last a while, but it WILL eventuly crack and "fall" off. my preference is little to none, the maximum thickness of filler after it is all finished and feathered shouldn't be more than a .060-.080 of an inch.

now...onto what brand of fillers....stay away from "generic" brands....like the ones sold at parts stores, but beware, paint stores also sell "industrial" generic fillers, the ease of sanding, spreading is reletively close in all fillers, but "shrinkage" is the most obvious sign of a cheap filler, bottom line...you get what you pay for.

my personal preferances are "platnium", it is a good feathering, easy to spread smooth, really easy to sand. it will not fill very heavy, but it doesnt require a glaze coat either. from time to time i also use "duraglass".....which is a fiberglass reinforced filler, the only time i use this....is on fiberglass(i.e. mold lines in a glass body), or where panels have been welded together, and tiny "pinholes" in the welding may be present, i use it because it is impermiable to water, but the metal still is.....so make sure to use a "seam sealer" on the backside. as for brands like "rage" "allmetal" "basecoat/clearcoat" i have tried them, and for one reason or another i do not like them, "allmetal especially, i have had problems with "reactions" to topcoats, especialy with the catalists that the "Glasuritt" product line uses. others are just too tacky, or hard to sand, shrink badly, or dont feather very well.

sorry this was so long......but it takes years of experince to find out what works......and what works well.... if you have anymore questions that 81turbo cant answer...let me know, and im also kinda curious what product lines everybody else is useing in there shops.

later
chris
Performance Concepts
medford, oregon

 

Hi Drax---------If you read the response from BowtieZ he is right to the point with what is good and bad with fillers. Ultimately, anyone that uses any filler should use as little as possible to complete the task. As to which filler is good and bad- price is always the determining factor. Cheap fillers only add to headaches------"Bondo" brand would be a cheap filler example. To purchase a good plastic filler you would need to find a paint and body supply house. Plastic filler is just one type of filler material. Filler materials range from plastic to metal and also a combination of plastic and fiberglass. The choice ultimately depends on the location of the damaged area and the area's underlying structure. A plastic filler is great when the damaged area has no holes or rust. A plastic filler is not recommended in these situations because any form of moisture or rust will cause the failure of the bond. Plus plastic filler can absorb water--- increasing the advent for rust. A metal based filler, such as All-Metal, is great when you have a porous area that needs to be filled. This metal(actually aluminum powder)filler once bonded will not react with water minimizing the future possibilities of lifting. Also aluminum will not rust and the all-metal bond is extremely strong. The last filler is the composite plastic and fiberglass filler. This filler is rarely used on steel applications in todays industry. This is due to the cost aspect. Not that the product is absurdly expensive just that its cost does not out weigh the products extra strength capability.

As for what I would recommend as a filler???? It would truly depend on the above situations and the desired result. Each filler has its own characteristic and function. Some fillers are easier to use and some require more labor. Some clog up the paper and some do not. As for my preference I choose All-Metal filler. I use this metal based filler due to its strength and the type of cars I work on. The age and condition of the metal on these antiques ultimately requires the use of a strong filler. Another reason I like All-Metal is due to its difficulty in sanding. Not that it is hard to sand this product----it just takes longer to sand---this is the point I like to make. By taking longer to sand it helps eliminate over-sanding---which than would require more applications of filler.

I hope this made some sort of sense.

Sorry long day of sanding, cutting, welding and grinding ---my brain is mush right now..

Later 81 TURBO

 

My opinion is use everglass. when I first started doing body work 14 years ago I used bondo. after about 2 years a guy turned me on to this stuff called everglass. He said It is a lot harder to sand than bondo but long term durability is worth all the extra sanding effort.a few years later the first Z of mine I used bondo had started to crack. I removed all the bondo and re worked the damaged surface with everglass. that has been about 8 years ago an it is still in perfect shape.

Everglass made by evercoat
final finishing I use euro soft also mde by evercoat.
the can be found at your local automotive refinishing dealer
godd luck and happy sanding.
PS. check out my Z's I have used this on under rides 70-78 or articles trey goes hollywood.
Z ya

 

Hi anonymous------(it is usually easier to reply to a name)--------well with a simple door ding--------normally the surface will not need to be taken down to bare metal unless the door ding is also a chip----------if it is only a ding------you would be correct in your assumption that taking the shine off the paint as the first step----------now the process is a little more difficult than just that--------depending on the size of the ding will ultimately decide on which filler you shall use-------if the ding is relatively minor (less than a few millimeter in circumference and depth) I would suggest using a glazing filler (such as Metal-Glaze) and 220 grit to start off working up to 400 grit---------if the ding is major (larger than that described as the minor)-----I would than start with 100 grit to roughen up the surface to promote adhesion with the filler (i.e. bondo or All-Metal)----once this filler is applied, shaped and blocked you would than need to move up to the Metal Glaze and do the finishing touches

Hope that helped!!!

LaterZ, 81 TURBO