RPM problem
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RPM problem
1977 280z 5sp
Didn't move since 1997.
Bought it for $400
Got it running yesterday.
Idles good, runs good up to around 2,500-3,000rpm (a quess, tach not working) then it starts to fluxuate up and down in RPMS with steady gas.
I am thinking dirty injectors or a bad fuel pulse regulator thingy?
Best way to clean your own injectors?
Where to get a pulse reg if i need one? Found one online for about $100, ouch..
Thanks for any help for this newbie!
Didn't move since 1997.
Bought it for $400
Got it running yesterday.
Idles good, runs good up to around 2,500-3,000rpm (a quess, tach not working) then it starts to fluxuate up and down in RPMS with steady gas.
I am thinking dirty injectors or a bad fuel pulse regulator thingy?
Best way to clean your own injectors?
Where to get a pulse reg if i need one? Found one online for about $100, ouch..
Thanks for any help for this newbie!
Guest
Posts: n/a
It sounds more like a AFM not fuel. But to be sure check the plugs. Change the cap rotor and wires. Take apart the air ducting from the airbox to the throttle body. Clean all that. When you get to the AFM play with the door to make sure it moves freeely and easily.
Guest
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Its not a butterfly valve it is inside the AFM. Also have you changed both your fuel filters. Also make sure your fuel pump is working properly. It is located behind the passenger seat. If you lift the carpet up you will see the wires and the mounting bolts. The fuel filter is right under there. Welcome to the Z club. Mine is a 78Z. I have had her for 4 yaers. She is number 13 for me. And I plan on keeping this one.
If you have any questions at all just email me. You can get my email from my profile.
Shane
If you have any questions at all just email me. You can get my email from my profile.
Shane
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The **** next to the hood release is for air to come into the cab by you feet. You have one on each side. The AFM is Air Flow Meter. It is located between the air cleaner and the throttle. There are 2 rubber tubes connected to it. One fron the air cleaner the other from to the throttle body.
Have you checked you timing. Also what is the temp where you are? If it is to cold you need to let the car warm up for about 2 minutes before reving it up. otherwise it stalls out or bounces at about 3-4k rpm
Have you checked you timing. Also what is the temp where you are? If it is to cold you need to let the car warm up for about 2 minutes before reving it up. otherwise it stalls out or bounces at about 3-4k rpm
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My Z doesnt have the black canister lookingthing on it. The second one is capped off on mine. I would bet to say you can remove it. It is probably a smog thing.
The piece in the second picture has a vacuum hose that goes to a T and connects to the vacuum advance and back to the intake manifold. I think it helps with the high revs.
The piece in the second picture has a vacuum hose that goes to a T and connects to the vacuum advance and back to the intake manifold. I think it helps with the high revs.
Last edited by AllmyZs; Dec 29, 2003 at 03:12 PM.
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Ok after reading my entire Haynes (fun evening) the one vac line to the black diapham is the Fast Idle actuating device fitted in conjunction w/ AC, and i think the one at the rear is the "air distribution actuator for AC" in case anybody else needs to know.
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who knows what can be ripped out and what is needed for proper ECU/engine running?
How about the fast idle for AC, the BCDD, the vacuum switching valve(tranny controled advance), the dash pot, and the BPT valve?
This guy (besides the fuel rail) seems to have lost most of it, think he still has the stock ECU?
How about the fast idle for AC, the BCDD, the vacuum switching valve(tranny controled advance), the dash pot, and the BPT valve?
This guy (besides the fuel rail) seems to have lost most of it, think he still has the stock ECU?


