Before and after
 

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/d.../zasigotit.jpg
Rear before
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/d.../zintheair.jpg
Getting work.
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/d...Picture002.jpg
Rear After. New stock springs and KYB shocks. All the way around. Remember this is all work before I ever even drove it.
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/d...cture008-1.jpg
This is from the day I brought it home.
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/d...cture011-1.jpg
The old engine. That weber setup is for sale.
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/d...cture001-1.jpg
The new engine.
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/d...cture003-1.jpg
This one taken 10 minutes ago. Thats my baby about ready to be driven daily.

I'm not to thrilled about that spoiler.

Give it to some stupid honda fanboy and get a nice bre spoiler.

I dunno. It looks tastefully ricey to me. <-----(thats sarcasm)

it gets old. lol. dont get to used to getting excited when hitting boost. after a couple weeks it wont be enough.

Dude... I thought you took off the wing???

Its still filling holes. Remember the car hasn`t been running to get it to school and weld them shut. Its gonna go. I just really don`t want rust in my almost rust free Z. Specially in the cabin. It will defiantly be gone before it gets painted.

Okay took the car for a little drive. Its still issing, and I think I finally figured out why, I think I got an exhaust valve stuck open. Is there a way to fix this without rebuilding the head?

Make sure that's the prob first... of all things why do you think it's a stuck valve?

I came to that conclusion after going through everything else. My number 4 cylinder has less compression than the rest and if I unplug the spark plug/injector it makes some noticeable differnce in running but not a lot. After school tomorrow I am gonna pull off the rocker cover and check my valve lash/lifters. I am wondering if its got hydraulic lifters and maybe one of them is not collapsing like it should. Theres a lot of ifs involved. I am planning a full rebuild when taxes come, which means I wont be able to go to canadia for shadys meet. Anyways. 3 and 5 are full compression and 4 is weak. Now I`m not getting oil smoke out my exhaust but I am getting raw fuel. Therefore I have concluded (I think) a valve issue with that cylinder.

Ok the saga ends today. Aside from running a little rich, My car is running fantastic. It idles a little rough. (see running rich) but other than that it is prime. I am gonna see about getting the stock injectors cleaned and put those back in until I get a bigger turbo and intercooler. I am really pleased with it. Thanks for all your great help guys.

Edit: As for the valve being stuck, it was valve lash on number 4, was not letting that valve close all the way. Thats what happens when you don`t build em yourself.

w00t w00t! :038:

Congratulations man!

Yeah congrats man, glad to hear you got it worked out. :038:

congrats, now wheres that vid? does it spin through first when u hit boost? mine does, it rocks. lol

Yeah It does. And second and third. Right up until the coil went out. It just got its first tow truck ride. I`m starting to hate this car.

nah, my coild went also, and my ignitor. old parts break.

Bad coil doesn't deserve a tow home! Replace that biotch on the side of the road! :048:

You tell me where to buy one at 1am in Boise Idaho.

I know a really pretty girl i that city.

But uhhhh, no clue.

No 24hr AutoZones up there? Ah man....

theres bound to be one 24hr auto parts store. we got ONE here.

Po Dunk Idaho. I hate it here, and nope nothing open past 9pm. With the exception of 3 shari`s one dennys and a truck stop.

Denny's... that makes me want an omlet! Oh look IT'S LUNCHTIME! :D

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/d.../towtruckz.jpg
I thought my phone didn`t save this as it went dead as I took this picture. All I have to say is thank god for triple A.

Been there... done that... several times actually. :D Welcome to the club.

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h8...DSC02549-1.jpg

ive only once had a Z towed and that was when my master went out in my 300zx along with the clutch at the same time.

Ouch that sucks. Ok back to making my Z run. I`m not getting spark. Put in the new coil. Can get spark if I manually interrupt the igniter. Don`t get spark other wise. Sounds familiar. Like before when my wiring wasn`t complete. Except my wiring is complete. I got power all the way to the coil. Can get spark out if I manually interrupt the igniter. No spark otherwise. Is my CAS bad?

getting voltage through the connector? if not, check your connections, remember when i said mine was working for a while then stoped? yeah, it was from my poor soldering skills.

Yeah I`m getting power everywhere except out of my coil. Its like its not getting a signal to interrupt the igniter. Thats why I was wondering if it was CAS or maybe ECU.

hmmm.. could be the ecu. doubt its the CAS. i dont think the injectors will fire if the CAS is out..... not to sure on that though

Check your grounds... especially check your coil bracket to make sure it's securely fastened on the body (with a good ground).

Its got a good ground to the body. (can fire it manually by pulling the plug from igniter to ecu.)

Mkay got it to start for a minute, this time I had the multi meter on the wire going into the igniter. When key is on but not starting it reads .06 when working properly it jumps to .19 So I was like yay! musta been a loose wire. Well. It died. Now when key is on and not running it reads .06 when I try to start it it reads .00 and will not start. So I redid all my wiring, tried again and same result. So I was like hell. So I found the wire right from the ecu, stripped a piece of it and same results. Long story short, Does anyone have a good 1983 280zx turbo ECU for sale?

Ok I think I am gonna sell my car. Any Offers? It may or may not need an ECU. I`m to angry to go work on it. Bodys good interior is missing.

sissy. lol. this is just what happens with the turbo swap. mine did the EXACT same thing ur describing. lol. was fixed when the ecu was changed and re-did my connections. id suggest trying a new ecu before you completly quit.

At $500 dollars an ECU? unless someone has one cheaper here.

Why not just do the z31 ecu swap? I know where a z31 turbo ecu is. And it dang sure won't cost u 500 Bucks. Problem is, its in a junkyard, so i have no idea how much the owner is gonna try to get for it.

I didn`t know I could do a z31 ecu swap. My problem is, there is only one guy locally that has z parts for sale. He buys em outa the regular scrap yards so no one has em. And he is all old and hard to get ahold of. Maybe a person can get ahold of him once every three months. So if you could get me a compatible ecu, That would rock. I`d be willing to pay cash or trade my dual weber setup with the cannon intake.

Edit: it looks like there is a mess of stuff to get a z31 ecu to work. Maybe those of you in larger cities with bigger scrap yards could look for a 1983 280z turbo ecu for me? Again, if its reasonable I`ll pay cash or possible trade my dual weber setup.

where would it be located i found one in a local scrap yard but it's n/a but i also found 3 z31t's if you want to go that route i just need pix and i'll go and fine it for you

the 280zxt ecu's are located on the driver side, in the side panel next to the pedals.

As for the Z31t ecu....i couldn't tell you for certain. I've never had a need for one. and as such have never snatched one.

The s130 N/a Ecu will work with the turbo set up. The guy i get my parts from is running an s30 with the turbo swap in it using the N/a Ecu. Perfomance takes a little bit of a hit because it doesn't compensate for boost pressure, but it will work. I've eatten his dust enough to vouch.

If I go z31 I would need the chopper wheel and the afm. I think. At least thats what I was reading. can anyone say for certain?

We have quite a few threads on the Z31 ecu swap. You need a Z31T ECU (84-86 for this conversion, 88-89 for the reprogrammable conversion... not covered in these threads), Z31 MAF (turbo or n/a), any VG30 chopper wheel, and the Z31 ecu plugs w/ a few inches of wire. The Z31 ecu is behind the passenger right kick panel.

https://www.zdriver.com/forums/showt...highlight=Z31T

https://www.zdriver.com/forums/240z-280zxt-s30-s130-tech-tips-275/worlds-first-z31-na-ecu-swap-24434/

https://www.zdriver.com/forums/showt...highlight=Z31T

https://www.zdriver.com/forums/showt...highlight=Z31T

https://www.zdriver.com/forums/showt...highlight=Z31T

Wouldn't happen to have a picture of the VG30 Chopper wheel and its location in the engine would you? (never worked on the z31)

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h8...2/DSC06751.jpg

Its inside the distributer, get me some prices and assure me you can get everything needed. and we will talk.

Maybe this is causing my problems. My ECU is part number A18-000 040, which according to http://64.233.167.104/search?q=cache...-603-045&hl=en
is from the 81. Meaning it uses dropping resistors. Do you think I may have fried my ecu?

u got an 81 on an 83? hmmmm.. 81's used a different CAS system also. thats wierd. id get an 83 ECU like i did, it was 30 bucks, look on ebay and the other Z forums (hybridz.org, zcars.com, classiczcars.com) you can find it in no time at all. and never do a Z31 or any sort of swap unless you have the car running properly first.

Werd to that.

I havn`t found one for under 50. and that one was on hybridz.com, I don`t really wanna do a z31 swap as this is gonna be my daily driver. So any help locating a ecu for the 83 would be appreciated.

ebay brothah...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1982-...em230227269525

Thats for an 82, are those compatible?