theramz

I had an idea that maybe they are bent inward from pressing the old ones out. I noticed that mine were about to bend when I tried pressing them out so I split them with a hacksaw on the wheel side of the control arm bushing between the welds. You have to insert the blade through the hole and then tighten it in the saw frame. Cut through the inner bushing and the rubber then carefully cut the outer bushing sleeve without cutting the A arm. The bushing will colapse enough to knock it out. Heating it up just enough to make the rubber start to smoke will loosen the rust seize. If your arms are already bent you can put a piece of bar stock through the hole and bend them back or you can use some 3/4 inch threaded stock with the nuts in between the sleeves and "jack" them apart.

bambikiller240

You can go about this two ways, you can take a piece of sandpaper and put it on a flat surface, then take the poly bushings out of tha control arms and place them (one at a time) on the piece of sandpaper, and sand about 1/16th of an inch off of the end of each bushing that contacts the strut tube part of the suspension. This should give you the room that you need to reassemble the suspension.

Alternatively, you can use a file on each side of the strut tube section of the suspension to create a "ramp" to start the compression of the bushings as you try to assemble everything.

I've used both methods at different times without problems.

theramz

If your A arms are bent, then the holes are also out of alignment. You can spread them out with a small bottle jack and a couple pieces of wood. Take a measurement before and "jack" them apart. The spread should be the same as the width of the strut housing plus the two bushing flanges. I noticed my A arm starting to bend when I tried pressing the old ones out. That's why I cut the bushing first. A little heat from a torch helps to loosen the corrosion holding them in. Then I was able to drive them out with a punch.

bambikiller240

The A-arms may not be bent. This is a very common problem when installing Polyurethane bushings. When I have replaced spindle pins, I did not use a press, I used a puller, which draws out the pin smoothly without the stress that a press can deliver, thus my A-arms are not bent. Using both Energy Suspension, and other brands of bushings I've found that most PU bushings are a bit oversized and need a little help to compress to fit into even an undamaged A-arm. Tyically removing 1/16th of an inch of material on the 2 bushings that contact the hub/strut tube will solve the problem in an otherwise undamaged suspension. This information has been confirmed in talks with Energy Suspension Tech Reps.

If you have more than 1/8th inch TOTAL fitment problem, then the suspension is likely bent, and you need to find a more careful machine shop.

myxtaz

with my spindle pin puller , you use it to spread the two halves apart 1/8'' and when released it will spring back 1/16'' , this will allow the spacing for the ureathane bushings. Killer did you ever find the hardeded nut ? LoL G. I found a new home !

bambikiller240

Hi Gary:

That nut seems to have defied the laws of physics. I've cleaned the work area where it was used several times, and my living room (where I "played" with the tool before use also); and it hasn't shown up. I really expected to find it with my vacuum cleaner (thus destroying the vac); but so far, nothing. I really hate that I lost it. I'm sorry.

Carl

myxtaz

no worries . I just thought you would get a kick out of seeing me here. Good reply to the hatchet man the other day

bambikiller240

If you think that one was good, check out the "Shift kit for 5Spd in early 240Z " thread tonight!

ZChief

I just replaced my inner control arm bushings which was a breeze, but the outer ones are looking pretty hairy. How did you guys get the pins out (from the beginning) and do you need to replace any of the pin parts (I have the bushing kit / with shims).

theramz

MSA sells the new spindle pin and lock bolt for $22 and $11 each. Victoria British sells them for $30 and $1 respectively. Go figure! At least buy the lock pins. I managed to save mine by squirting penitrating oil on everything the day before and wire brushing the exposed threads to remove rust. Next day I heated the area with a propane torch. The lock bolt is tapered. If you loosen that small nut just past the end of the thread, you can smack it with a hammer without damaging the threads. Do the same to the spindle pins. Once you get them as far in as you can, you can use a brass bar to drive them out the rest of the way. The threads are easily damaged. I drilled out a piece of bar stock to clear the threads and was able to drive the pin out with no damage. The long spindle pins have a flat on them for the lock pin to locate against. Make sure you note which way they go in, the flat is not in the center! This whole operation is easier with the assembly off the car.

ZChief

Yep - the assys are off the car. I tried pounding on my pins a bit, but they didn't budge (I stopped before doing some reading and that's when I bumped into this thread). I'll hit them with te oil tonight and try it again tomorrow. These are the last bushing that remain unchanged on the car, so it'll be great to get them replaced.

About a year ago, I found the 70 Z in a local junk yard. It hadn't been on the road in twenty years. I found out that the car had been abandoned while in storage, then sold about 4 months before I found it in the junkyard. The car was an El Paso Texas car, so the body is in excellent structural condition (looks crappy, but no rust). Mechanically though, complete rebuild.

So far I've gone thorough the entire drive train, brakes and suspension (except for these last bushings). Once I get these bushings replaced, onto the body and then interior.

Thanks for the help THERAMZ!!!

theramz

Don't foget the heat. It probably makes the most difference because it makes the surfaces seperate and breaks the rust "bond." Try removal while it's still hot. Let the metal cool slowly, do not quench it with water, this will make the metal brittle. Also- penetrating oil is flammable.
I had another idea for next time. I'm going to make an adaptor for my slide hammer, drilled and tapped on one end for the spindle thread and the other end to fit the slide. Hmm maybe I could sell them on ebay.

ZChief

I learned a new trick removing the old bushings. For the first bushing I removed the rubber (picked it out with a blade/scredriver) and then removed the inner shim. I then cut 1 groove in the outer race using a hack saw and began to pound (w/o heat). This took quite a while, but in the end, the mangled race came out. On the second bushing, I removed the rubber/inner shim as above, and cut 2 grooves in the outer race (about 3/4" apart from each other). when the cutting was completed, the material between the grooves popped right out (w/o having to pound) and then the entire outer race came out with a couple small taps (whole process took about an hour).

New problem. How do you get the spindle back in w/o binding up on the new shims? Also, if you can get the spindle past the first shim how does the shim stay in place on the other end when the spindle is coming through the strut assy side, pushing the shim out, away from the strut assy (nothing to keep it inside the bushing)?

Thanks again!!

theramz

As I remember, I used a file to clean the burrs around the flat on the spindle and wire brushed the whole thing to make it easier to get back together. Then I used a wire bottle brush to clean the holes. The new bushings are very tight. Greased everthing with the special grease. Then I pushed the spindle through the first hole and bushing/ shims. As the spindle passed through I held the next shim in place with my fingers and pushed the spindle all the way in. Then the other bushing and sleeve in from the other end. I had to drive it in with a larger bushing. Its important to align the flat with the lock pin because it is to weak to force the spindle into place. Lock the pin in place and then the nuts on the end of the spindle. Don't forget the special grease or they will squeak!

ZChief

You aren't joking about the shims being tight. Wow!! All my gear is very clean (no rust - looks brand new), but I'll work a bit to make sure it's extra clean, grease it up better and then try it again. As for the grease, I made that mistake on the front end, luckily early on. Since then, I've been using the blue marine grease (nasty stuff, but effective).

Cheers

myxtaz

I have a spindel pin puller that pulls the pin and saves it undamaged for reuse. I have the drawing and specs. of the tool I will email to you . It makes the job of pulling them simple and you dont need to remove the controll arm . Makes it about a 30 min job. Also you can spread the controll arm the 1/16'' that is needed for the ureathane bushings. no cost to you. To build a puller you need access to a welder and a lathe but is is a simple tool to make.

ZChief

Thanks Theramz. I managed to get everying into place w/o damaging anything. I have one more bushing to replace / put the driver's side assy back on and the entire job will be complete (accept for mustache bar which is next). I appreciate the help!!

Thanks also myxtaz for the spindle puller offer. I have it under control now. :headspin:

Christ_1067

I just got done replacing front end bushings and am now replacing rear bushings, I had to find several different ways to compress bushings on my front end, so far the rear end has been a breeze. What I did to compress the compression rod to frame bushings (the one I had the most trouble with) was to take a large c-clamp and a couple squares of steel and mash them before I even put them on the end of the rod. but thats just me and I am not a mechanic nor have I ever attempted anything this major on a car, although seems to be coming along just fine. Kinda proud of myself.

Christ_1067

I got one of my spindle pins out like butter the other one I hammered and oiled and hammered and oiled for 3 days before I took it to the local machine shop and had it pressed out. although I wish I had thought about the pulling technique before pressing it.

myxtaz

I am glad you were able to get the job done. Having them pressed out , if the pin is really stuck tightly , the press will sometimes close the two halves together or spring the controll arm. I am mentioning this for outhers . the puller allows the use of the old pins . I have drawings for free if anyone wants to make there own tool. Also I will loan the tool I have . I only ask that the person pay for the shipping both ways and to return the tool complete and clean. Shipping cost will be in the neighborhood of $10.00 each way. I am only offering this as a fellow Z driver to others. Gary Merry Christmas

myxtaz

If you use the pin puller , you will save the old pin and just replace the bushings. 45 min job each side and no pounding . I don't know what else to tell you guys . this thing works ask bambikiller he used it . The only cost to you is to pay shipping each way and promise to return the puller. This is for members only . aprox shipping cost is $10.00 each way depending on where you live. I also have detailed drawings if you want to make your own. I HAVE OFFERED THIS IN GOOD FAITH . IF ANY ONE WANTS TO USE THE PULLER OR WANTS DRAWINGS THEY ARE FREE JUST CONTACT ME. I AM NOT GOING TO MAKE THIS OFFER AGAIN . SINCE IT HAS BEEN IGNORED IN THE PAST . HAVE A MERRY CHRISTMAS G :doh: ARY