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driveshafts: replace or repair?

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Old 03-22-2004, 10:20 AM
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driveshafts: replace or repair?

the universals on my driveshafts/axles are worn out. it it better to replace the whole axles or can you just replace the universal joints?

i think it is my axles anyway. when i accelerate or deccelerate there it a loud clunk and "shift" in the car in the rearend, almost like you were flooring the car and let off the accelerator really quick and the car jerked back and made a loud clunk, except it does this all the time not just at high speeds.

everytime i let off the gas or give it gas it does the clunk jerk thing.

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Old 03-22-2004, 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by jessed
the universals on my driveshafts/axles are worn out. it it better to replace the whole axles or can you just replace the universal joints?

i think it is my axles anyway. when i accelerate or deccelerate there it a loud clunk and "shift" in the car in the rearend, almost like you were flooring the car and let off the accelerator really quick and the car jerked back and made a loud clunk, except it does this all the time not just at high speeds.

everytime i let off the gas or give it gas it does the clunk jerk thing.
First make sure that your u-joints are the problem. Roll yourself under your car (squeze is more like it since these sit so low) and grab the drive shaft and twist it while watching the u-joints for play, do the same on both half shafts. If you see play in the u-joints then just replace them, it's pretty easy and no too expensive depending upon which u-joints you buy. Personally I'd recommend the spicer brand available from MSA but they also sell a less expensive brand also.
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Old 03-23-2004, 10:33 AM
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The more common fix for the rear end clunk is the differential mounting bushings. They are rubber Nissan bushings, but you can get urethane bushings which are harder and will last longer.
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Old 03-23-2004, 11:36 AM
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i shook the axles around and they moved a lot at the u-joints, so i assume this is the biggest part of the problem! are the u-joints available at a local parts store? is it worth ordering them from msa. what is the link to msa. i really don't know what msa is.

thanks
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Old 03-23-2004, 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by jessed
i shook the axles around and they moved a lot at the u-joints, so i assume this is the biggest part of the problem! are the u-joints available at a local parts store? is it worth ordering them from msa. what is the link to msa. i really don't know what msa is.

thanks
They should be available from your local parts store but I can not say what brands they would have. MSA is MortorSport Auto and their website is http://www.zcarparts.com/

The quality of part you want to put on the car should be reflective of your use of the car. For a daily driver the lesser expensive ones that MSA carries should be fine, but if you will be racing or driving it hard (it is a sports car after all) then the Spicer brand would be better for you. The choice is your's and by no means must you order from MSA, your local parts store may carry Spicer even but you'd have to call and ask if they have the right one for your car (this is sometimes the hard part...even for spark plugs for a 240Z).
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Old 03-25-2004, 06:48 AM
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thanks for the info, and yes it is a sports car and yes it will be driven like one, so i guess i should go for the good stuff.
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Old 10-17-2004, 03:56 PM
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My 2 cts. If you find one ujoint that is bad , replace them all . Other wise you will most likely be back under doing another one soon. My parts store had them for two prics , $13.00 ea of $23.00. I am on a limited budget here but went for the spendy ones. I just don't plan on doing it again. By the way these have a method of lubeing them, which is a must because they are NOT lubed at the factory . Only enoung grease to keep the needle bearings in place when you do the installation. Be sure to lube but becareful not to blow the seals when you do it , watch what you are doing here and go slow.
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