FubarI33t

Main tools needed.
10MM Wrench
12MM Wrench
13MM Wrench
17MM Wrench
Misc Sockets same size as wrenches
Extension 3 inch, 6 inch and 1 footer
Phillips screw driver.
Flat head screw driver
Adjustable Wrench might come in handy
Electric Drill
Allen Wrenches
Needle Nose Pliers
Regular Pliers
Wire Cutters
Sharp Knife

Parts needed.
Fuel Rail. Pallnet has a very nice one for a good price (comes with fittings needed). Pallnet@hotmail.com
Some fuel line 5 feet should do ya (cause they're old and you might as well replace while your at it).
Vacuum line, For this get 1/3 inch (3.2mm) Fuel Line, Works great for having to go over valve cover.
Intake plugs (you can find these in AutoZone, There silver and come in a ver pack, they should be around the air intake systems and oil breather's)
You might as well pick up a new injector seal kit from O'Rielly's, it's only about 1$ per injector)
Sand Paper (clean the grounds)
Vacuum Plugs
Oil Breather Filter
Some Hose Clamps, Small size

BEFORE:


First to do:

Get Dirty! Start removing everything off the intake. Leave the EGR and T/B
If you plan on upgrading your T/B then go ahead and remove it. but if not. leave her be. You will no longer need most of the stuff your taking off. Loosen belt tensioner and take off. This will require the 1 footer (for a comfort remove)


One bolt on the Passenger side on bottom is small, 10MM wrench. Top is a 12, and other bottom one on driver side is 12 also. Save This! Your removing this to take fuel rail off and coolant line. Remove the big air line from the Valve cover, toss it. Carefully remove the Fuel Rail. The tips on the injector's can not take much of a beating! So Be careful. Remove the injector's and set them aside. On the Fuel Rail Remove the Fuel Pressure Regulator, Save This!. also remove two of the hold down brackets, The bracket that mounts Fuel Rail on the Belt Tensioner, and the Small one that mounts it down near Cold Start Injector.


Using the Needle Nose Pliers, break the white Plastic on those two mounts, that will set them free. Set these aside with injector's. Remove the air regulator and water block underneath. Feel free to toss these, or put in part's box. Your done with stock Fuel rail as well. Remove all the small stuff. Take out the coolant line as well. This will require a Plug at the water inlet. And on the passenger side will require a line cap(this is up to you, I used a bolt and two hose clamps).





For the vacuum spots on the intake feel free to pull all But Two, you will need a place for Fuel Pressure Regulator, and VC Purge from Charcoal Canister. Plug the rest. Take Cold Start Injector out. I will leave the block off plate up to you. If you can not find one. just leave cold start there for now. but do not hook it up to electrical lines or fuel. If you wish to keep using your Cold Start Injector, Pallnet can drill and tap a hole in Fuel Rail for it. Just ask.



Injectors
There fuel hoses will need to be shortened. Wait for fuel rail to get Proper Length. If you wish to put new fuel lines on like i did, then this is what you need to do. What ya need, Sharp Knife, Needle Nose Pliers, Wire Cutters. Cut the line All the way down to the injector. There is a small silver clamp type thing. Carefully Cut this with wire cutters. Take your time. I have done nearly 18 injectors like this. Take your time. Try to keep things like metal shavings and rubber pieces from going inside the injector inlet. Replace Fuel Line and clamp down.

Back to those two brackets you took off earlier, One will hold down fuel line. and other will mount Fuel Pressure Regulator Next to Fuel Filter. Use the big one to mount Fuel Pressure Regulator. Drill Two holes into it near the heart Shaped part(the part the was connected to fuel rail) These holes will be used to mount down Pressure Regulator, so measure them to it's Two mount holes. The part of the bracket that was mounted to the Belt Tensioner will be use to mount to body. I used an existing hole to bolt to. You might have to bend it to fit in the spot you want.



The smaller bracket will bolt where the big one did behind the Belt Tensioner. Grab a few spacers. You might have to drill the hole on the bracket to make it fit the larger stud. Place two-three spacer's on stud. then bracket, then belt tensioner. Remount tensioner. Remember the Power Steering Bar! If equipped. You might have to open the looped part to fit fuel line though. But doing so will help against fuel line resting on hot stuff.

Size up the proper length for the injector Hoses. I found this easier to mount one injector down to intake, and hold Rail where it needs to be. Avrg length is 3 inches. But measure first. Remember, Injector Connectors must Not! be pointing straight up or down, This will result in Injector Clips not fitting. I faced first three slight angle up, towards firewall. and last three slight angle up towards Radiator. This resulted in a clean looking way. while the clips still fit. Mount the Fuel rail.

Run Vacuum Lines. Put on Oil Breather Filter. Cap off the small stuff. There is something that shoots down under intake, you will find this open at this moment, I just put a vacuum cap in the small vacuum port. and a small filter on the big opening. Seems to run just fine like this. Feel free to remove this part. and use block off plate if you wish.




Clean the Grounds, and mount them as you wish. If you upgrade your T/B to the 240SX T/B then remember the spacer... about the same price. One is Aluminum, other is Plexi Glass. I got Plexi Glass, happy with it also. T/B Allen Head bolts need a #6 Allen tool to remove. These are gonna be a lil tough. be careful and you won't bust any knuckles. There are two versions of the 240SX T/B one with Cruise Control bracket. One With Out. Either one will work. If you have the one With Cruise Control small mods will be needed. Nothing major. Stand back. and enjoy your cleaned up Intake. If more info in needed. PM Me.



AFTER:

duowing

what size is the alen head bolts on the T/B, do you know?

HybridS130

Ha, at first when I saw the thread I thought you meant literally "how to clean the intake" might want to change it to "how to clean up the intake manifold". Anyways, where exactly do you find the fuel rails? What's the price on them and will the car still idle, accelerate, and drive normally with so much vacuum related items removed? Any idea on affects to gas mileage and the like? Pros, Cons?

jfairladyz

http://www.freewebs.com/pallnet/

The fuel rail itself wont affect anything from a performance or driveability standpoint. You're okay there. What else you remove can have an affect depending on what you remove. The main I noticed that fubar removed that will affect your car is the air regulator. That eliminates the fast idle you get when its cold. This can cause cold start driveability and idling. How bad it affects it depends on how cold it gets where you are. In the summer you're not even going to notice its gone.

Pros: looks 100 times better.
Cons: If you leave the air regulator on there really aren't any cons other then the cost.

skittle

Thats just what i needed. A few small questions though.

1. Does any of this affect the smog checks?

2. is there any way to get longer spark plug wires so I can route them around the valve cover to make it cleaner? ( working on a custom cover, more to come on that.)

FubarI33t

I am very busy. I am still workin on the post. Your comments are helpfull.

jfairladyz

1. It shouldn't affect your smog check. Those little filters on the valve cover and PCV valve may fail a visual inspection in some areas though. None of this should affect emissions output though other than removing the EGR valve. But not every where tests for NOx. It just depends on where you live and what the emissions laws are like. Of course tampering with any part of the emissions system is technically a federal offense

2. You can get plug wires that you have to manually assemble. If you contact the source you should be able to find a distributor that can sell you lengths of plug wire as well as the connectors and boots to custom make your own wires. I made a set of wires for a buddy of mine for his Mustang. I dont know where he got the stuff from though. I just put em together for him.

HybridS130

Thanks a lot J oh and Skittle while I don't know where to actually get the plug wires I know it can be done just as J said. I think I was searching through HybridZs photo album and several people on there had rerouted their wires to the front of the valve cover and it looks great, incredibly clean.

I forgot, thanks for the link J, I google searched pallnet 280zx fuel rail and even searched on ebay and came up with nothing so I'll definitely check that out as I hate how cluttered the intake manny is.

I think there is already something wrong with my car though because I have to tap the throttle while I start it for the first time in the morning for it to start on the first try, and then the idle kind of lopes for awhile. Guess I'll have to check the connections and everything, I know that the cold start valve is working though.

HybridS130

Damn I forgot this question too, how necessary is the charcoal canister? I bought my car with a blown headgasket and it was halfway taken apart, the line going from the charcoal canister labeled "dist vac" was missing so I drove around for awhile with it left open, then plugged it once I saw the difference in idle smoothness, now I have two lines properly hooked up and one just plugged off. I have looked all over the intake manifold and surrounding areas multiple times looking for an open vacuum plug but, haven't found anything yet, my only guess is that I have something hooked up on the intake that is where the charcoal canister line is supposed to go.

If it's all the same can I just get rid of the damn thing altogether or does anyone know where that line should go? I assumed it would be on the dizzy since it was labeled "dist vac" but, there's only one vacuum hookup on the dizzy and that's got the line coming from the underside of the manifold going to it.

RodMoyes

Probably your Air Regulator, could also be a clogged or bad Cold Start Valve, Or the Temp sensor for the AR, or a bad electrical connection on any of them...


Rod.

jfairladyz

The line labeled dist vac is supposed to go to a T fitting that runs to the distributors vacuum advance. There is a vacuum line that runs from the throttle body to a T right at the vacuum advance unit. That T sends a short length of hose to the advance and then another length of hose the charcoal canister. I'm assuming that T is missing on your setup.

The canister doesnt affect the engine at all. It's just meant to trap the fuel fumes that form while your car is sitting. The fumes travel up the vent line to the canister and get stored there until you start the car. Then vacuum from the engine sucks the fumes in and they get burned. So MIGHT have a problem with the smell of gas if you remove it cause you dont want to plug the vent lines. I say might because people have removed it and said there was no excessive fuel smell afterwards. It wont hurt anything to try. Just make sure you plug the vacuum lines but NOT the vent line coming from the fuel tank.

xtreme 2

hmm not bad... might have to try that...

wreckedj30

Does this also work on the tubro's(a stupid question). And what does that thing underneath the MAS (i can't remember what the zx's are called) its a vacuum something something.

jfairladyz

The vacuum control modulator? It's actually two parts in one. One controls the EGR, the other contols the idle speed control.

wreckedj30

Oh ok, when i do the z31maf swap it elimanates that right, I was wondering how to clean up all that cause it connects up to the manifold.

flightforlife07

if I remove all the vacuums i know u said it might affect smog visuals depending on where you live. But is that assuming that the tech knows exactly what a z looks like under the hood or do they have a diagram or something. Basically What are the most necessary vacuums that i need to run the car?

FubarI33t

umm. i think the Very Most needed to run is FPR, and Dizzy. The Purge ain't needed to make it run, but you don't want Gas fumes floatign around the engine bay. So I'd say. the same three i am useing. FPR, Purge, and Dizzy Adv.

jfairladyz

lets not forget the brake booster. It's probably a good idea to keep that hooked up to a vacuum source as well.

FubarI33t

you know. i never count that as one. I just look at the smaller ones. I Moded my brake booster line. As seen in my pic's

Heat Rave R

Do you guys reckon it'd be ok to replace those rubber hoses with silicone hoses? Silicone hoses say they aren't meant to be used with fuel or other fluids, but "fumes" technically aren't really a fluid. I don't know if the silicone warning was because of a liquid pressure issue, or if it's a chemical composition/reaction issue.

jfairladyz

Silicone will be fine for the vapor lines.

snwbrderphat540

silicone doesnt mix well with fluid? uh-oh...

FubarI33t

i swapped all of my engine bay vacuume lines over to small fuel lines. i think my FPS is a 1/4 line. works great. And there thick enough to put small pinch style clamps on.

jfairladyz

Silicone hoses can handle fluid just fine. Silicone radiator hoses, for example, are all over the market.

Heat Rave R

I suspect though that the construction of silicone hoses vary. So that like the silicone radiator hoses must be especially thickened, reinforced, or chemically different to take it. After all, you guys will notice that certain hoses, like oil and fuel lines, have some kind of nylon reinforcements running the length of the hoses.

The hoses that come in the typical silicone hose kit look like they don't have thick enough walls to withstand fluid pressures; the ones I got are thinner than some of the rubber hoses they replace, such that the original spring clamps won't fit on them. But, like I said, I was just concerned whether the warning on all the packages is due to chemical reaction issues (ie if fuel or whatever eats away at silicone) or just burst/fluid pressure reasons.