a few problems with my new 300zx turbo , help please
08-07-2015, 07:50 AM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 5
a few problems with my new 300zx turbo , help please
hello everyone , im new to the forum, and i purchased my first z a week ago . , theres a few small problems i need help with. okay so id like to start by saying i absolutely love the 300zx , its amazing and everything i could want it to be. heres whats irking me though , when i got the car everything on the electronic dash worked besides the oil psi, temp , and battery guage . a few days ago the fuel guage went out also (miles to e works still) , it worked again that night leaving work , and hasnt worked since. now ive done some research and tried a few things with no luck... first i did the dash diagnosis , then i checked the rear wiper fuse and its fine , then i pulled the power supply and checked the solder joints , they seem to be fine, although 2 or 3 werent perfect , im gunna use a friends soldering iron later to see if that does the job, meanwhile any suggestions? are there actual bulbs in the dash that will go out? are they replaceable if so? speedo and rpm work fine, thanks for all help
problem #2 : okay so only the left headlight works when i turn the headlights on . the right does nothing , its also stuck up , so at night i use my brights (both brights work) but when i turn on my brights they dont shut back off ?????? i have to pull the terminal and put it back on to get them to shut off, all of my fuses inside the car are good, not sure how to check the relays under the hood... any help is greatly appreciated , thanks. despite these few problems i am absolutely in love with my z
problem #2 : okay so only the left headlight works when i turn the headlights on . the right does nothing , its also stuck up , so at night i use my brights (both brights work) but when i turn on my brights they dont shut back off ?????? i have to pull the terminal and put it back on to get them to shut off, all of my fuses inside the car are good, not sure how to check the relays under the hood... any help is greatly appreciated , thanks. despite these few problems i am absolutely in love with my z
08-07-2015, 12:11 PM
#2
Grumpy & Helpful
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Mill Creek WA
Posts: 1,415
here is a link that may help:
check azbum site for repair hints and tips.
stuff that may save you headaches in the future:
Get your battery load tested. Be sure you have clean, tight corrosion free terminals on both ends of your battery cables. Be sure the ground (negative) cable goes to a bolt into the frame before going to the starter. grounding through the starter is not a reliable connection. Z's don't like low voltage. causes the electronics to act funny. it is possible to have enough amps to crank but not enough voltage to run the electronics. If you have one size fit all cheapo clamp on terminals they are a problem waiting to happen. Usually on a rainy night around Oh Dark Thirty.
Clean the connectors for the maf or afm, ecu and tps. Deoxit by CAIG is probably the best connector cleaner on the market. spray with CorrosionX after cleaning and before putting together this will help prevent any further corrosion. DON'T USE DIELECTRIC GREASE.
Replace outer tie rod ends, and ball joints. replace the bushings with poly (don't forget to lube them as directed unless you like squeaky things). New shocks. Get new boots for power steering. all those things will make you think you are driving a different car. doing them piece meal is a waste you won't see a great improvement until you do the complete job. You need to get the car realigned after messing with the front. Have your tires in good shape and rebalance. Rear bushings nice too but more work and you won't notice as great an improvement. Rear shocks also because if the fronts are gone so are the rears. if car squats when you jump on the gas the rears are gone. If you have the electro adjustable shocks they are DEFINITELY GONE.
if you would really like answers that would help you and avoid flames give the following info when you post: year of car, n/a or turbo engine, stick or slushbox. Most of us can tell by the year what model you have ie 85T is a turbo z31. Z cars come in many flavors and they are all different. example 84,85,86 Z31's pretty comparable. there were changes in 87,88,89. in addition 300ZX can refer to two completly different cars the Z31 and the Z32. No mindreaders here the more info you can post the more likely you get a cogent useful answer. The cars with L engine (straight six) changed almost yearly from their introduction. A 240Z and and a 280Z have similarities but they can also have wide variance.
Take the schematic from the FSM down to kinkos and have them blow it up to 11x17. Much easier to read unless you are a keen eyed twenty something.
find free fsm and advice here:
XenonZcar.com Z31 1984-1989 300zx Reference
put your car info in your signature then we don't have to guess so much what you want
check azbum site for repair hints and tips.
stuff that may save you headaches in the future:
Get your battery load tested. Be sure you have clean, tight corrosion free terminals on both ends of your battery cables. Be sure the ground (negative) cable goes to a bolt into the frame before going to the starter. grounding through the starter is not a reliable connection. Z's don't like low voltage. causes the electronics to act funny. it is possible to have enough amps to crank but not enough voltage to run the electronics. If you have one size fit all cheapo clamp on terminals they are a problem waiting to happen. Usually on a rainy night around Oh Dark Thirty.
Clean the connectors for the maf or afm, ecu and tps. Deoxit by CAIG is probably the best connector cleaner on the market. spray with CorrosionX after cleaning and before putting together this will help prevent any further corrosion. DON'T USE DIELECTRIC GREASE.
Replace outer tie rod ends, and ball joints. replace the bushings with poly (don't forget to lube them as directed unless you like squeaky things). New shocks. Get new boots for power steering. all those things will make you think you are driving a different car. doing them piece meal is a waste you won't see a great improvement until you do the complete job. You need to get the car realigned after messing with the front. Have your tires in good shape and rebalance. Rear bushings nice too but more work and you won't notice as great an improvement. Rear shocks also because if the fronts are gone so are the rears. if car squats when you jump on the gas the rears are gone. If you have the electro adjustable shocks they are DEFINITELY GONE.
if you would really like answers that would help you and avoid flames give the following info when you post: year of car, n/a or turbo engine, stick or slushbox. Most of us can tell by the year what model you have ie 85T is a turbo z31. Z cars come in many flavors and they are all different. example 84,85,86 Z31's pretty comparable. there were changes in 87,88,89. in addition 300ZX can refer to two completly different cars the Z31 and the Z32. No mindreaders here the more info you can post the more likely you get a cogent useful answer. The cars with L engine (straight six) changed almost yearly from their introduction. A 240Z and and a 280Z have similarities but they can also have wide variance.
Take the schematic from the FSM down to kinkos and have them blow it up to 11x17. Much easier to read unless you are a keen eyed twenty something.
find free fsm and advice here:
XenonZcar.com Z31 1984-1989 300zx Reference
put your car info in your signature then we don't have to guess so much what you want
08-10-2015, 01:20 PM
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 5
hey , okay so it wasnt the solder , i may need a new dash? but my positive terminal is loose so ill get it cleaned and tightened today , still havent has the time to check out the light switch , how would i go about cleaning the afm and ecu? thanks , by the way its a 1985 turbo
08-10-2015, 07:47 PM
#4
Grumpy & Helpful
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Mill Creek WA
Posts: 1,415
Clean the connectors for the maf or afm, ecu and tps. Deoxit by CAIG is probably the best connector cleaner on the market. spray with CorrosionX after cleaning and before putting together this will help prevent any further corrosion. DON'T USE DIELECTRIC GREASE.
try asking around local music stores that do amp work etc for Deoxit otherwise available on line.
If nothing else just plug unplug several times. the scraping will at least rub some stuff off the connectors.
You don't have an Air Flow Meter those were on the s130. you have a Mass Air Flow sensor altho to confuse things nissan referred to them in some places as an AFM. two totally different devices. The AFM uses a vane in the air stream to move a potentiometer to give the ECU a signal it can work with The maf passes current thru a wire whose resistance changes with temperature. More air flow cooler wire. Almost all modern cars use a maf to tell the fuel management system how much air is going to the engine.
just saying the car is a turbo does not answer the question of dash digi or analog. Tranny slush or stick. that info makes it easier to answer your Qs
try asking around local music stores that do amp work etc for Deoxit otherwise available on line.
If nothing else just plug unplug several times. the scraping will at least rub some stuff off the connectors.
You don't have an Air Flow Meter those were on the s130. you have a Mass Air Flow sensor altho to confuse things nissan referred to them in some places as an AFM. two totally different devices. The AFM uses a vane in the air stream to move a potentiometer to give the ECU a signal it can work with The maf passes current thru a wire whose resistance changes with temperature. More air flow cooler wire. Almost all modern cars use a maf to tell the fuel management system how much air is going to the engine.
just saying the car is a turbo does not answer the question of dash digi or analog. Tranny slush or stick. that info makes it easier to answer your Qs
08-11-2015, 09:34 AM
#8
Grumpy & Helpful
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Mill Creek WA
Posts: 1,415
you have to remove the power supply anyway to remove the dash so just check the connection first. Unless you think your hvac ducts need to be refitted (probably do anyway). plus there is some weather stripping under there that probably has turned to dust and you can replace that. removing the dash more tedious than difficult. AZbum has or at least had a really good right up on the process. If I remember right you can take out the instrument section without removing the entire dash. but might be as tricky as taking the whole dash out. kinda a tossup on that.
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