Im sure this has been asked before so all I need is a quick answer.

Im asking because im going to check mine out because of the bogging issue Ive been having, but I figured if I have to get a new EGR I might as well just spend 30 bucks for the bypass kit instead of 130 for a new EGR.

Is it worth it?

I dont plan on removing the engine or valve covers or anything like that in the future. I know its also a pain to get in there and get it out and what not.

But real quickly, whats the benefits and is it worth it to do?

Thanks.


BTW, I did use the search but its pretty vague because it finds every page with the word bypass.

 

I found it, as always, thanks to Zlover, i found your explanation.

https://www.zdriver.com/forums/showt...ght=EGR+Bypass

Im not going to delete the thread because the title is clear incase anyone else wants to search for it. But if a mod feels it necessary to delete, go for it.

 

Yeah, but I wasn't very clear with the reasoning in that post. Here it is for the archives, since I'm in a giving disposition.

To understand where the problem can come from, one must first understand the job of the EGR valve. What it does is basically feeds exhaust gasses into the intake tract in order to keep combustion temperatures down. By diluting the air, there is less of a burn and thus temps drop a bit. (For the record, there has been insufficient evidence to suggest that the amount that an EGR valve drops temperature is even helpful.) The EGR solenoid (one of the solenoids in the cluster on the rear passenger's side of the bay) allows vacuum to open the valve during constant RPM's under 3000, so basically it helps only while you're cruising around.

A well-functioning EGR valve will never do any harm, the problem comes with they either become clogged with carbon (on most cars, it's considered a regular maintenance item for this reason) or are improperly installed (which is too easy to do, given the mess of vacuum lines). In either case, the EGR valve could be open at all times. If you were to run full throttle, the extremely hot exhaust gasses that exit the engine could then be routed via open EGR valve back into the engine, causing catastrophic damage.

The general consensus of safety vs. benefits is that the risk of a malfunctioning EGR system is FAR greater than the benefits of a properly functioning one. Thus, most people (including myself) remove them.

 

Thanks...


Im going to check it out tomorrow. If it works fine, Ill leave it till next year. I only do about 500 miles on the Z from october to april/may, so it can wait. If it doesnt work, ill just get the kit and do it on a warm day.

Thanks for the post.

 

I honestly wouldn't recommend doing it with the engine it...

 

well it would be sloppy but i had thought a few times about doing it and leaving the hoses/pipes in the car with all the ends capped. so it's really like it's out, except it's still bolted there. that way you could just take it out next time the engine or tranny is out (memory doesn't quite confirm whether the tranny being out makes it easier or not).
i'm not really sure though. this isn't actually advise, but you might take a look and see if it looks like that might work for you.

 

With the trans out, it would probably be a lot easier to get the valve itself... would also make it easier to plug the manifold/header that the EGR valve taps into. But how would you cap the pipes? Just large vacuum plugs? Would work on an NA, but a TT would probably blow those off easily. I still recommend the steel plates that come with the kit, as they ensure a good seal (when used with the stock gaskets), and because they're bolted on, they'll never blow off.

With a plenum pull and a trans drop, the full elimination could be done properly.

 

It turns out a fuel injector is bad.

I dont know what number cylinder, its the drive side first one on the head lights side.

Since I replaced one last year, and im replacing one now, its only a matter of time before I have to replace the other 4. So im going to pull the plenum off over the winter and replace all of them, if I feel I can get to the egr then ill do the delete at that point as well.

 

what i was thinking zlover was to use the metal caps on the plenum, leave those outlets hanging, and cap the header. i guess you wouldn't need to cap any of the hoses/pipes then.

 

if your going to remove the egr with the engine in, you MUST remove the transmission... also... I HIGHLY recomend unbolting the motor mounts (and wiring harness / vacuum lines), and having a (strong) friend pull the engine forward or hook it to something that will put tension on it to the front and that will give you a FEW extra inches of space.... And also have a dremel or rotary tool handy to cut the EGR pipes... OTHERWISE you MUST remove the 2 hard lines for the heater core to remove the EGR, so it's basically easier to just cut the metal tubing.

and if your pulling the plenum, you might as well remove the EGR, honestly, i've found it less of a hassle to remove the EGR (even with the engine in) than deal with the EGR and the plenum.

 

Yeah thats what Im going to do. The Z has turned into my summer car / nice weather car, so its not a HUGE deal right now, but its gotta get down. Its like im adding something else to do each week, power steering pump, pvcs, egr, fuel injectors, i need to break out the "To Do" list.

 

Does performing the ERG deletion effect emission testing?

 

I'm posting this via ZLover on another post to keep this in the same subject...

I have never heard of a Z32 failing a sniffer test without an EGR valve (search twinturbo.net for testimony about passing with it, because there are many people who have posted that they passed just fine). You will, however, fail a visual inspection if that's required and the guy knows what to look for (and that's a big if on the Z32, given that you can't see the EGR valve without some serious effort). You could always leave the valve itself (and cut-off piping) in to fool them, though.

 

The EGR valve doesnt work at idle. If its working at idle you'll fail a smog test anyways. It only works under a load.( meaning driving down the road) Generally speaking reving the rpms up during a smog test doesn't necessarily put enough load on the EGR valve for it to function. The EGR was just a lame attempt for manufacturers to show the government( EPA ) that they were making attempts to improve emissions. #worstideaever (FAIL)