S130 or AE86
 

Well the thing is: (Drawing breath.)


I always wanted a 280ZX, and I always wanted a AE86.

I was lucky enough to find either for sale here in Norway. And I am able to get either, at 15th February. So I need to choose:


280ZX Pro`s and cons:

Pro`s:
Well.. its a ZX!!!

Con`s: It`s got rust along the entire channel (Which is getting ever more attention as for being given green light for registering for public roads nowadays.) and rust at essential edges around the T-Top`s, which have cracks on the gaskets, or whatever u call them, so water will leak in. And it has a rather.. delicate A/C vacuum system, and needs a lot of stuff done to it before I can have fun with it (LSD differential, complete suspension upgrade, more degrees for counter steering, cant remember what thats called either. And probably modifications to engine.)

AE86:

Pro`s:
Well.. It`s an AE86!!

It`s had everything done to it, It imported in 1988, and registered for daily use on public roads (Which very few AE86`s in Norway are.) And legally converted for rally/drift use, and still given green light for public use!
It has complete suspension upgrade, flat high compression pistons, forged everything, racing valves, Double DCOE 45 Webers, Roll cage, bucket seats, galvanized body, comes with 3 spare engine blocks, 2 gearboxes, and lots of parts! Easy car to work on, easy car to drive. And heck, if I dont find the power satisfactory (Which would be weird at a mere 900kg car!) I could always put in a Blacktop 20v AE111 engine at half the price of a LSD diff for a ZX!

Even with the cons below it would still be cheaper rather than the ZX chassis work! welders takes paid here!


Con`s:
It has a defect main engine fuse box, as the previous one melted when he put on injection, so he readjusted, calibrated, and rebuilt the webers, put them on, and all thats needed is the fuse box.. but I found a new one for 40 bucks plus shipping at club4ag! Heck I could put in the fusebox and drive the car all the way back!

Needs new uniballs for the rear 4-link suspension as the old ones are a little worn out. (Could get an entire 4 link suspension new for 200 bucks.) But nothing that keeps the car from driving.

Needs brakes re-balanced. (Or get new ones..)

Needs cracks along the exhaust welded (But I`ll just put in a new manifold and exhaust system for about 200 bucks anyways.)





Yes the AE86 seems more tempting for now, As the ZX would need more intermediate difficulty fixing (Such as chassis welding, etc. Before I could get it approved.) and I could always import and register a relatively mint ZX (As for rust and chassis work.) for half the price of the one thats for sale here in Norway. Right now I feel more like having an economic car right away, instead of pumping in 4000 dollars on rust welding before I could even think about driving it..

But still I`m not utterly sure.. We are talking about a ZX!


RvH

I'd say go for the AE86. It seems like less work to have a running daily driver, and you'd have an easier time passing your country's inspection. Rust is a pain to deal with, and it will definitely be time consuming to get rid of it properly. Get a ZX down the road as $ permits. Nothing is worse than being halfway in with a project car's work and losing interest because you haven't driven it in forever. That's my $0.02.

ok so you want a tin can toyota with electrical defects or a rusted to shit 280zx?

boy its a toss up to buy both and part out and hope you gain some $$$ from it because both are cars people want parts for or harvest good parts for your self and make some sort of franken car.


acually yea franken-car. corolla body, ZX engine. you might get lucky and the engine and transmission bolt to one another but that rear end...yeesh it'd be chunks before you know it.

go ae86 with ITBs... omg thats hot

is some one came up and offered me a mint rolla for my datsun... i would make the trade

Part out both cars and scrap them? Both being one of maybe 3-4 of their kind in this entire country registered for use.. I`m not too sure Niku Sama...
The only ones I could think of that would want the parts, would be those who have imported JDM 86`s or ZX`s for track use, and for those people, the parts are just not worth as much as they are for people with eligible cars, who could still get the parts in cheaper bulks than what I would have to sell them for to make a profit. (For example, I found a fuse box for 40 bucks..) And I could always put in a 97` AE111 engine for practically nothing (Compared to what I get), thus replacing all previous engine electronics which may or may not have other problems, the fact that the current engine is running on Webers (Which the car had no problems with, until the owner tried the original Injection with modifications.) Still does eliminate a lot of potential electronic problems that could happen.

Ok that became a book of its own... I get your idea, Niku Sama, But bottom line is I want a, not so common car to drive, not 2 cars that would probably never run.


I think I`m gonna go for the AE86 now, fix it, (And maybe ITB`s :evil: Though Webers are nice too!) and go for a more mint ZX to import later on!

Keep suggesting! Up until 15th February I`m listening!

Btw I`m an uncle now! It happened late yesterday! :icon_pidu:

RvH

Get the Toyota. :D

I'm going to say the Toyota. Sounds like it's in alot better condition. These are fun cars, I have to admit even the old Corolla SR-5 with the 4A-C has some kick to it simply because the car is so light. My friend has an AE86 and I only ever rode in it with the 4A-C. Over the summer I helped him out a bit with wiring and we finished installing a 20v Blacktop motor into his car. He made his wiring harness from nothing. We got it running then came solving sensor and some minor wiring problems. I've yet to ride in the car, it's currently being painted to finish it up. So I'm hoping I get a ride soon.

I would go for the yoda as well.

wow i just saw a video of a rb26 rolla and bout shit my pants...


get the hachi...

Yes boosted AE86s are quick. My sister's friend back in Okinawa is almost done with his project AE86. He's stuffing a 2JZ in his... I highly doubt he'll have any kind of traction for the first 3 gears. If it's anything like the L28et powered Bluebird I rode in, that car is gonna fly.

He's talking about the 1984-87 Toyota Corolla GT-S. It was produced from 1984-1987. The chassis code of it is AE86. It's the main car of the anime Initial D. It's also become a really popular car in the drift world, partially because of Keiichi Tsuchiya and Initial D. Plus the 4A-G motor is considered pretty neat simply because at the time it was DOHC which was like something sporty and more rare especially in a car known for economy such as the Corolla.

http://www.autospecsltd.com/AE86%20C...20Prodrift.jpg

its really up to. dont you wish you could have both :)

Get the AE86. It is way cheaper to have fun with that the Z. I know this because I have been having some serious fun with my friends Corolla GTS AE86. I am still faster than him though. lol. Electrical is easy to fix compared to rust.

280zx's are gay. Get the corolla. You'll have more fun.

true, very true

there are 3 in my town alone, granted in pretty shitty shape but theyre there

yh, theres lots of 86`s anywhere but in norway, buying a 200 buck 86 from america, then comes 2000 dollar shipping, 1500 dollar handling, toll, emissions, taxes, and then the complete workover and mods needed (Wanted.) If I ever am to import a car, (With all the insane work and papers needed.) I`ve decided 100% un-retractable to save the effort, for a spot-free 280ZX 1982 T-Top 2+2.


I received some pics of the ae86 (I know what I`m buying and the risks I run, so let me breathe!)

He was right about the 4 link, U-balls seems tired, coil does not look too good either, which is an excuse to get rid of it all and replace with better goods.
Attachment 7119



The U-Balls on this side seems good, but coil is crappy.
Attachment 7120


Lockheed calipers, never heard about the brand before, but they sound cool :icon_super:
Gonna try and clean them up but good.
Attachment 7121


Undoubtedly the coolest luggage I`ve ever seen, an extra fuel pump (With fuel pressure gauge.) Seems like the fuel lines would run through the car!
Attachment 7122


Ah, a lightweight battery rig made out of wood! also it would seem theres been nailed on some noise suppression plating of some sort, not too bad! Might be able to put on noisier 4 link without worrying too much about chassis noise.
Attachment 7123



200 bucks worth of Optima battery, fuel lines does indeed run through the car!
Attachment 7124


More snacks! Sparco bucket pimp seats, to go with the pimp ride when I put on the pimp mode!
And also, hydraulic e-brake.
Fuel, oil, and electric lines running along the tunnel, I doubt I`ll be smoking while inside that car, it`s already a suicide machine!
Attachment 7125


Yey! Loose front bumper-spoiler!
Original hatchback sideskirts (saves me the effort of finding them.)
Some pre-emptive rust work done already. and white paint still visible under the yellow colour, also, its got a TRD-wannabe sticker, and a D1GP sticker, even though the car has been in Norway since 1988 :P And a black hood just in case theres any doubt the previous-previous owner was a InitialD`er!
Gasket along the top of the windshield missing, revealing some minor rust spots along the edge.
Attachment 7126


Okay heres the good stuff, on closer inspection the orchestra does indeed seem to be Weber DCOE 45 spec, closer look reveals some rust spots along the reinforced seam welding edges, but nothing that puts the car in any danger of not passing emissions. Also seems the top used to be green, obviously been half-heartedly polished of, leaving "that" feeling. (But with a 20v blacktop with ITB`s it wont matter anyways.)
Attachment 7127



I hope this reminds everyone not to drive without top on the fusebox:
Attachment 7128



Also theres a vid of the previous-previous owner "driving" the car on a go-kart track: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zCAfSbih9wY
Good traction!

All in all the car doesnt look crappy, needs some work, as the 4 link u balls will need to be changed soon (Considering complete 4 link kit.) brakes needs rebalancing (Considering complete brake kit.) And some minor rust work, new bumpers (The ones on it are in good shape but needs re-fitting, I think the original trueno ones looks way cooler anyways.) and a repaint! (Out of obvious reasons.) Perhaps even hatchback trueno conversion, but we`ll see!


RvH

thats alot of work to get things cleaned up and in order on that car.

if you think it looks ok that one thing but to fix all the little stuff will have you pulling your hair out.

The exact same car was at UKD1 2004 where it got 4th place, and 1st place at Birmingham 2004 the day after, even Ken Nomura, who was the judge, was very impressed by both the car and the driver, with the correct settings, it would have taken 1st spot at UKD1. Just after the owner and car came back to Norway from England, they drifted it on the go kart track as well.

I chose this specific AE86 simply because It is awesome both in its history, where its been, and for what it is. (It`s the Norwegian ZX-R of Norwegian AE86`s, only 5 ever to be sold off-the-line, with these specs, originally.)


Should I buy a car that doesnt suits my taste rather than one of five ae86`s of its specific kind in the entire world, just cuz of a few minor faults?

My personal opinion (And decision.) would be: No :biggrin:

I can see where you're coming from, but sometimes the history doesn't mean too much when there's alot of work too be done. If you've got time and money to fix the little things, give it a repaint, etc then go for it. I just have a feeling with the corroded away fusebox that there may be more electrical problems in store.

Yes, that thought did cross my mind, but, If something with the electronics in or for the engine, went wrong, the respective fuses would go as per their designed function, we see a matter in which relay connecting fuse burning the fusebox, not unheard of, old fuseboxes are prone to such (My BMW buddy used to own a Chrysler Van that did have other electrical defects, what happened was fuses going constantly.) which undoubtedly is a bad thing, but the only electric things related to the inside of the engine right now due to the webers removing the need for most engine electronics, are oil temp sensors and such. So if there is indeed a bigger problem (Corroded distributor connections or such.) I believe the problem should be easy to trace.

i thought all you European'ers were supposed to be thin? that guy driving looked a little chunky in my opinion. lol.

Ya hehe, on the Toyota Sports Car Norway forum, I was told that most of it`s previous owners was/is.. larger than average :P

Due to unforeseen complications, the pick up date of the car is delayed a little, around 17th May I hope to have the car home.

Meanwhile I`m saving up money to fix it, as well as getting that ZX :)