it should be the same no matter what, but personal preference might change it, as besides my R1 i just get them to "feel" right.

 

that seems really high... i dont know them on the Z but the talon was 18 ft/lbs i think. not very much since its an alum head its bolting into. i do happen to have my haynes shop manual next to me though... i'll see what i can find

 

if my memories right your correct hoov

 

 

i remember snapping 4 of them at like 16ft lbs and then 3 at like 25 lbs so i just left them in there, put the valve cover on and listed the ad as "runs great, but needs a cylinder head"

 

I used a 12mm socket and a relatively small wrench with just a little bit of force to break the cam tower bolts free from my P90a head so I don't think they're 70.

 

lol Iv snapped 10mm allen wrenches pulling the head


I use a 1/2in socket wrench with a 10mm allen socket and breaker bar

 

Its 10-15LBS In a cross pattern like the head but you have to turn each bolt a few turns then every time you tighten one make sure the cam still spins freely then tighten the next one up, if the cam binds, loosen the last bolt a little bit till it spins then goto the next one. blue thread locker is a good idea as well but not really needed unless you like to work. (put the thread lock on all the bolts BEFORE you start tightening.)

 

are these FSM instructions or autozone instructions?

 

To be honest? I think I got them from a Z site. But I don't really remember... And the FSM doesn't say anything about that really. Sense their not suposto be taken off to start with.

 

oh god......

 

wtf's the matter with you?

 

you realize that once you take the bolts on the cam towers they just pop off right?

 

Uh ya.... but their not suposto be taken off.... and if you do you have to realign them to keep from wearing down the camshaft and bearings.

 

yes they are, what do you think the dowel pins and bolts are for? thats like saying you arent supposed to remove your cylinder head or bearing caps.

 

Ok then, why doesn't the FSM have anything about it then?

 

See look

 

lol, that thing was written like 30 years ago when people could barely change their own tires.

 

That thing was also made by the people that built the car.

 

its standard to pull them when working on heads every time Paul (BRAAP) dose a head he strips its completely,
even the valve guides come out. just keep them in the same order.

 

some one give me a broken down 280z... i NEED something to work on

 

Ok what Im trying to say is, you CAN take them off, but your not suposto take them off.

 

why? realigning them isnt hard or even a problem, the only thing going through them is oil and when you take them off for a head rebuild they are realigned anyway.

 

theres nothing wrong with taking them off, just like anything else you gotta put them back right.

 

Eh each to their own