vg30dett head and block ?s
 

Are the heads and block of a vg30dett same as vg30de ? Im thinking different coolant passages and oil gallerys. I ask this because i wanna build a vg30dett motor from bottom up. So its kinda pointless for me to buy a whole vg30dett motor when i would be replacing pistons, rings, rods, crank, bearings, crank bolts convert to arp studs or something equal. For the heads new cams shafts, cams, 5 angle job, lifter, valves, head studs arp or equal think i read arp heads studs spin or strect imma read more about them. Have heads and block take to a machine shop for cleaning/resurfacing.

Maybe someone on zdriver has heads or a block there saleing i could pick up .:icon_keel:

http://www.nme.com/news/deftones/50800

there's a bit more to it than pistons and what not. it's doable, but not economical.

thanks for the point in the right direction. Ive been reading about all kinds of stuff to get an idea about what kinda mods ill need for a safe 600rwhp motor build. Most so far ive read is about cranks, rods, piston walls. crank counter weights. JWT sport 500 and sport 700s.

i checked the link and its was about def tones new cd coming out and tickets lol

shit sorry. copied the wrong link. deftones new album rocks shit.

i'll find the right link again tomorrow.

Physical blocks are the same (oil squirters are different), heads are very different (NA heads would need a LOT of work to flow like TT heads).

You can build the shortblock to be like a VG30DETT, but you're best off buying a set of used TT heads. You will need to tap the block for oil sources for turbos... and that's not something you want to be careless about.

Don't forget that additional benefits of buying a TT motor include manifolds (unless you plan on getting MSP manifolds, too... don't even think about buying eBay or AMS garbage for such an important component), fuel rails, the plenum is a little different (I believe), you will have all the turbo plumbing you need (the coolant lines on the back of the block are different for the TT, to provide coolant to the turbos), etc.

And even then, you won't have all the intake pipes, intercoolers, etc. This is why most people who convert buy an entire front clip.

ok i should start with tt heads and block now i need to find a source to get thoses.

Where are you located? I have a TT block I could get rid of... (was gonna turn it into a table, but I've been too lazy to strip it down).

Don't the NA blocks already have the oil supply holes? Mine has a port into the oil gallery on each side that is plugged with a pipe plug.

I'll be honest - I've never physically worked on an NA in my life. It would surprise me if that were the case, but it's not impossible.

However, the oil supply for the passenger's side turbo is at the rear of the block, but the oil supply for the driver's side turbo is all the way toward the front...

Zlover4life i live in minnesota so im not too far chi-town prolly take me 8 hours to drive. I got family near there so i could just call it a little vaction while i get the block. How much do you want for the block ? Ill prolly have to take my dads truck to haul it back up here by me.

xpwarrior i think they just tap the oil galleries for a possible turbo kit. my na doesnt have what your are talking.

Well it's a full short-block... new crank bearings (oversized, which does mean the crank was reground - you can decide if you want to use your other crank or not, but I've never had trouble with it, even at 550bhp), OEM pistons and rods, etc. Let me look up some reasonable prices and I'll let you know.

And at current, the block is not in Chicago, but with ample warning I can bring it there on a weekend.

they make long and short blocks ?
If u want u could keep the pistons and rods. Disassemble it , i dont mind if crank, crank sprocket, oil pump, pan, pick up tube, if it all in a box when i get it. What the advantage of having oversized bearings ?

short block means no heads. long block means it has heads included.

^ yep.

There is no "advantage" of oversized bearings... it's just something people need when the crank needs to be ground. The OEM crank has a coating, though, and my regrind likely removed all of it (but there have been no adverse effects)... for this reason, some may consider it to be a disadvantage (clearly I don't). You can have the crank treated to reapply the coating, if you so wished.

I have no use for the pistons and rods, and they're still in the engine, so they're yours. I see prices ranging from $150 (clearly desperate people) to $800 (new parts and stuff), middle-ground is about $475, so that's about what I'd like for it, since the lower end has been refreshed (and I'll include whatever motor parts I no longer need since I won't have the engine). Let me know if you're interested... I can be in Chicago for the sale any weekend.

are you kidding ?!! reduced rotational mass FTMFW! prolly like a jiggawatt at least.

The below is part of a NA-TT conversion writeup from Z1. It mentions that the NA blocks do have the oil passages to feed the turbos they are just plugged. Mine does I double checked to make sure.

It also covers the difference in oil squirter like Zlover mentioned. I did read a writeup by Ash and according to him if you are using aftermarket pistons that don't have the internal passages that the stock TT pistons do then you might be better off with the NA squirters.


ENGINE
1. The cylinder block castings and main caps are the same. They both have oil squirters that direct
oil towards the underside of the piston, but they point at different angles. The oil squirters on the
TT direct oil straight into an off center hole on the underside of the TT piston, which leads to a
hollow area inside the top of the TT piston. The NA squirters direct the oil towards the middle of
the underside of the piston, which has no passages inside. They blocks have all of the same oil
passages. Two passages are plugged with a bolt on the NA block (one on each outside face that
feed the turbos on a TT). The TT block has two oil passages plugged inside where the oil filter
bracket mounts. The NA has two small check valves in this location. They are plugged in the TT
providing more pressure so that the oil will go through the lines to the oil cooler, which returns
back to the oil pan. There are check valves on the inside of the TT oil filter bracket where the oil
filter screws on, but none on the NA. The purpose of these check valves is if the oil filter
somehow becomes clogged or collapses that oil will still circulate.
2. The crankshaft is the same.
3. Connecting rods ARE the same!! (Same Nissan part #)
4. Piston rings and crankshaft bearings are the same.
5. Of course the pistons are different because of lower compression ratio in the TT, 8.5:1 in
respect to 10.5:1 on the NA. The internal structure of the pistons is also different, the TT have a
hollow ring inside the top that fills with oil for better cooling and a thicker dome towards the
center. Oil pumps are different. They mount the same and are the same internally (on earlier
models) except for the spring for the pressure valve in the TT one is tighter so it produces more
needed pressure to circulate oil to the turbos and cooler. You can actually just change the spring to
the tighter one.