Hi guys I posted a few weeks ago about my Z coming back from nissan with a little overhaul and now I'm getting code 34. I can't figure out if its a bad sensor or something else. I'm thinking of doing the bypass for now if its the sensor but I want to be sure its the sensor. If anyone who knows what to look for with this problem lives in the NY area or near the NY area and can meet up with me to check out how the car drives and noises it may or may not be making I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks

 

Do the bypass and then buy a sensor AND the harness (both are problematic). Replace them the next time you have the engine torn apart (they're not easy to get to). There is no easy way to simply tell if the sensor or harness is bad without doing a LOT of work (you'd have to test the resistance through the harness to see if there's a break in the wire... if there's no break in the wire, the harness is fine). Considering the work to get to it all in relation to the cost of the harness ($12 or $13), it's best to just order the harness and replace it.

 

the bypass is not that bad of a deal. there is also a relocation method, which is not recommended. i'd definately just put the resistor in. haha. i DID put the resistor in. the FSM has directions on narrowing down the possibilities. it tells you how to check the resistance on the harness, which, as said, is pretty hard. so if the problem is the sensor, bypass it. if it's the harness, you may be able to bypass it somewhere on the other side of the break, or else you'll just need the new harness

 

No need for a resistor, just ground the green wire.

http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300z...ges/sbfix.html

 

Thanks guys I'm gonna check the resistance and do the bypass as soon as i get a chance. I def. don 't have the time to start ripping the car apart to change the sensor. Thanks again

 

so you are saying that that article proves the resistor method wrong? i don't understand. i see that it is another way to bypass the knock sensor, but i don't see why you can do it without a resistor

 

If Zlover says it works, then that should be all the explanation you need.

 

i don't doubt him, but i'd rather understand then just accept it. it would be a sad and confused life without understanding what i believe!

 

dont doubt him, he will just yell at you and tell you to do a search on the board to proove him wrong

 

The resistor restricts the electron flow, making it harder for the sensor to notify the ECU of detonation. It stops the sensor from working at all by simply making its job too hard to do.

Grounding the sensor altogether completely stops the electron flow, making it impossible for the sensor to notify the ECU of detonation.

Both have the same result, but grounding the green wire is considerably more simple.



Think of it this way... you could pour concrete into your engine to stop it from running... or you could just disconnect your spark plugs.

 

So then I could just ground the wire and I won't be in safety boost no more? Also is the wire green or yellow cause if its green i'm looking at the wrong wire. I've been looking at a yellow wire and black wire going into the connector also this might sound stupid but I want to make sure i'm doing it right. When checking the resistance to the sensor Do I just put the ground wire of the tester on the engine and put the red wire from the tester to the yellow wire? Not sure if i'm clear but i'm a little confused how to accurately do the test and the write up doesn't explain how to probably cause i'm the only idiot whose not sure how to do it.
Also the black wire going into the connector is broken can I reattach it with solder or can I twist them and put tape around it? Sorry if i'm asking amateur questions. Thanks in advance guys

 

As long as the wire is connected, it doesn't matter how you do it. Clearly, soldering and heat-shrink tubing is most professional, but I usually prefer crimp connectors. Twist and tape will work but it's the most messy and least professional of the options.

The wire you'd be grounding is the green wire. You're looking for the connection that has black and white on one side, black and green on the other. If you ground the green wire, you will no longer be in safety boost.

As for testing the resistance on that particular sensor, I'm gonna have to say to search. Not because I'm lazy and don't want to answer, but because I honestly don't remember the procedure.

In all honesty, I'd say not to even bother testing it... just replace the sensor and its harness next time you have the top end apart.

 

thanks for the clarification there.

 

Thank you Z lover. I'm gonna get on it this week end I appreciate the help