yeah the last theory sounded along the lines of what i've been thinking. i'll take the vid tomorrow.

my plan now is to wait til spring break, take the tranny back out, check everything very well, and put it all back, with a new slave, and new soft clutch line.

 

thats what i think, i wish i could remember the thing i'm trying to explain in A though.... meh!

 

no vid today. i'll get back out there tomorrow. i'm going to take the soft line off and blow through it and stuff. i kinda have a feeling that that could maybe be the problem.

 

did you take the tranny off and inspect stuff?

 

so whats going on with your car?

i think that it is beyond repairable and you should sell it to me for 5 dollars and i will do you the favor of hauling it away

 

hell no i wasn't going to go right back into it. that's next weekend. i need a break. my back is still sore from the last time.

i'm replacing the soft clutch line and seeing what happens. if it's not okay then, then the tranny comes back out, and i'll see if i put something in wrong. you think if the pressure plate is the problem, exedy will give me some money?

 

I don't think anyone suggested that the parts are faulty. We all think your mechanical skills are faulty and you simply put it together wrong. lol

 

well yeah i know that's what everyone thinks lol. i think that too! but there are a few thoughts that hold me back from tearing strait into it.

1) there isn't much to go wrong in there. the flywheel was on the right way (obviously), the disk isn't on backwards (i vividly remember the disk being flat against the flywheel when i put the alignment tool in), the TOB isn't on backwards (i looked up there through the starter hole and saw that), the fork can't be backwards. that's another obvious one. and that pretty much settles that.

2) i've been getting very little volume out of the lines when bleeding. i think that the soft hose may have ruptured inside when i tucked it back out of the way when i took the slave off. so, i'm getting a new one, and trying to bleed again. i want to get the hydrolics right so that i can verify whether there is actually a mechanical problem.

i understand why you all think that it was a mechanical error. it is pretty unescapable, but like we've said, i'm exhausting all other possibilities before i drop that bitch again.

 

Do you see fluid on the ground anywhere? The fluid wouldn't just magically disappear, so if it's leaking it has to be going somewhere.

 

perhaps a small wormhole opened in his master cylinder and sent the fluid to Alpha Centauri.

 

lol ok. well here's my theory on how the hose is reducing the volume i'm getting out. but, to answer the question, no. there is no fluid leaking on the floor.

if the hose ruptured INSIDE and made a tight spot, where it was hard for the fluid to get through, then fluid would come out of the bleeder more slowly. well, before all the pressure on the line has bled out, i close the bleed nipple because it starts leaking slowly around the threads. closing it a little makes the flow stop, so i can't really get any more at that point. so, a new hose may allow full flow through so that i can get as much fluid out as the master is pushing, and hopefully solve some problems.

this whole thing is just a clusterfark. it's really hard to put a finger on any one problem because i have a reason that every suggestion doesn't completely fit. of course one or two of the suggestions are correct, but they can't all be. so i'm narrowing it down in ascending order of cost. i think...

 

fork mighta fallen off the pivot point to i suppose

 

i can see that it's in there through the hole. the ball is right in the dent and the spring is holding it in.

 

I've just read this entire thread...

My issue is very close to the same thing...except I didn't take anything apart.

My Z's been in the garage all winter... (late oct. it went into hybernation). Before I put it away, I knew the clutch was getting a little soft, plus there was fluid on the inside of the fire wall at the master cylinder. If I pumped it a few times, I could get the clutch to work.

SOOO... I got it out today and again, after pumping the clutch a few times it worked and I pulled it out of the garage to work on it. I decided to replace BOTH the master and slave cylinders. (Master-cuz it was leaking, duh. and Slave cuz I'm reading that it's a high fault item). NOW... the pedal stays on the floor unless you pull it up. I've bleed it a bunch of times.

I also seem to be able to move the fork, but I DO NOT know how far it's supposed to move. I'll try to take a pic or video tomorrow and upload it if it could help. I'm trying to avoid thinking that it's something inside the tranny cuz I haven't had it apart since the last time it worked. the only thing that's changed are the cylinders.

I think I might not be bleeding it right. But I'm following everyone's directions and in theory I'm doing it exactly right. UGH!!!


Just a thought, but I'm willing to bet that you and I have the same issue... or should I say...we're probably both looking for the same solution. HELP!!!

 

well for YOU specifically your master went out, dead give away with the fluid on the inside. other than that, i think your just bleeding it wrong as hard as that is to believe.

 

What's with people and their easily moved forks these days? All of my forks are nearly impossible for me to move on my own.

wtf you guys?

 

idk, some people just can't install a clutch these days. lol



so what ever happened william? figure it out? what did you screw up?

 

as far as the fork thing goes, i'm starting to think that there is just a little play in them. my best guess on the hydrolic problems for each of us is the soft line that goes to the cylinder. they can rupture inside and when you push the peddle, it will merely blow a bubble in the outer covering, which slowly flattens back out, leaving no evidence. that's why on the second pump, i can get some pressure. because that bubble is full. i've heard of it happening to other people, so i'm hoping that's it. i've got a new one on the way and we'll see what happens.

other than that, i really may be pretty close to giving up. the only thing inside the bell housing it could be is that the pressure plate is not to the right spec. there is no way i got anything put back together wrong. i've thought and thought and looked at diagrams, and there is no way that it could work as well as it does already if i had put anything together wrong. i do get peddle pressure after a few pumps, and i do get a great feel out of the peddle after a few. so i'm putting my money on the clutch line. i'll let you know.

btw viper, it's not a problem "in your tranny". it would be in the bell housing. it couldn't be quite as bad as having something wrong with the tranny internals.

 

i still think it is broken and you should let me give you 5 dollars for at and i will do you the favor of hauling it away for you lol..

good luck with the line.

looks like you may have found the culprit

 

http://www.conceptzperformance.com/C...07.246.188.101

But for the record, I've never heard of that happening on a Z32.

 

WOW i should have gotten that. i jumped the gun and got the OEM from courtesy. it should hold up fine though if i take better care of it when i take the slave off.

there was a thread on zcar.com (granted all the bad info i've gotten from there), where someone stated that as a problem that a new line fixed. there is actually a visible bubble on the line that never goes away. i don't think that specific bubble is the culprit because it doesn't swell when the peddle is pushed, but it shows that the inside is ruptured.

 

If it's an external rubber hose on a sports car, there is probably a stainless steel replacement.

 

i'll keep that in mind next time! there are a few of those that are on my list, i just didn't think of the clutch one.

 

lol lol lol, i NEVER replace rubber lines unless they are vac fuel or coolant lines. whenever i do a brake job on any of my cars i replaced the clutch and brake lines with SS ones, some of the first mods i do, one because they make the pedal feel amazing, so much more responsive with no flex. goodrige is where its at for SS lines imho. i should get some for the bike, lol.

 

i am on my way to start the second tranny pull in one month. i hope now that i'm all practiced up, i'll be able to pull it, identify the problem, and get it back up and in by tomorrow night, granted i don't end up needing to wait for a part.

zlover was correct again. what is that? the second time? maybe third ever? the clutch line made no difference. though, it was a good idea to replace it because the old one was in obviously bad shape. it had two little bubble poking out of it. the new one looks nice in there. no matter. back to the job.