no. 1 and 6 cylinders not firing?
 

ok so its been up a while since ive posted on here. ive been doing alot of research and figuring out what i need. here is what i figured out-

1. i didnt have a fpr and fuel damper. so i got one from a guy and put them on.

2. im doing away with the fmic so if anyone has extra piping for the stock side mounts that would be great. i already got a guy with the stock intercoolers. just need piping.

3. the car starts up now but it is still running very very rough and i found out that 2 of the cylynders arent getting spark. the no. 1 and no. 6 to be exact.

4. i checked the coil packs and those are fine. so what should i check next? any help on this will be greatly appreciated. and if anyone has extra parts they are willing to sell please list them and i will most likely buy the part if i need it.
ok thanks everyone.

Are you sure it's spark? Did you check the injectors? Check the PTU connection to make sure there's no corrosion. Those are the common culprits.

Im having the same problem with my 6th cylinder and iv changed out my coil packs i have brnd new injectors and plugs and a brand new ptu and wiring harness. Im clueless.

Have you performed a compression test?

im 100% sure there is no spark. and idk about the injectors but im pretty sure they are fine.

You should grab the ohm meter and check the injectors so that you're 100% sure. Being pretty sure isn't sure enough when trying to diagnose a problem.

ok yes so maybe i need to check the injectors but i am still getting zero spark from the 1 and 6 cylinder. has nothing to do with injectors...

have you tried taking a spark plug out of another cylinder that's working and swap it with a non working plug to test if the plug or the plug wires are bad? you haven't said if you have checked that yet but if you haven't that's where i would've started. test plugs test plug wires= good idea

i have used perfectly working plugs and coil packs on the cylinder that is not sparking and still nothing. i think it is either the engine wiring harness or the ptu. going to look more into it this weekend. is anyone selling in parts from there z. i would love to see all options of what i could buy that i might need to put into my car.

If you're in a 300ZX Z32, NEVER rule out the injectors like you're trying to do.

I suggest nobody help this guy until he tests the injectors to verify that they read 10-14 ohms. He's probably going to come back and tell us they are both out of spec, because they're probably pintle injectors unless he's 94+ and he almost definitely uses fuel with ethanol in it, which we know causes pintle injectors to die.

clean all connectors on ptu, cas, coilpacks, and injectors. then check injectors with ohm meter, make sure it's within 10-14ohms...more specifically 12-14. if good then use a 9v battery and touch the injector terminals from 9v battery terminals using wires. should hear a TICK sound.

selling a new style ptu just bought on ebay and tested in working order. I ran into a dead cylinder issue as well and was almost convinced this was the culprit but was wrong. shoot me 50 bucks and it's yours.

The 9V battery test is utterly USELESS once the injectors are confirmed ok via resistance reading. I told you this in your own thread but apparently you didn't listen.

Oh, how horribly WRONG you are. btw, I keep getting an error and can't post a lot at a time, or update my thread..I already did use the ohm test and it passed with a perfect 12.1, which I admittedly did fail to mention in my first post. Back to the point...

The ohm test only tests the electrical aspect of the injector; not the mechanical aspect.

Therefore, to test the mechanical function of the injector, you must use the 9v test, the screwdriver test, or something to that effect. This would absolutely confirm that your injector is ok, but still doesn't gaurantee your injector isn't clogged.

A way to be sure of that is to take the spark plug out of the cylinder(s) in question (one at a time) and hold a light to it while cranking it, observing fuel (or lack thereof). Or running it and pulling the spark plug afterwards observing a flooded cylinder..which isn't always easy to spot.

So if you have any more patronizing remarks, please feel free.

lol... just stfu. If you want to waste your time on useless tests, have fun... but all you're going to do with a 9V battery is open an injector and allow it to dump an assload of fuel into the cylinder head. Listening for the tick is the recommended method for making sure an injector isn't clogged, but in my ~decade with the Z32 (not just owning them but also working for a shop that specialized in them), I have never heard of anyone confirming an actually clogged injector - it just doesn't happen on the Z32 - what does happen is the coils go bad because they are problematic and this can be confirmed with a multimeter. I don't need to bother addressing you anymore - the people on this forum who matter (as well as on tt.net, ChicagoZ, etc) know that I'm right.

congratulations, you're the first douchebag z32 owner i've ever encountered on ANY forum. Way to look like a complete a$shole when all I did was present a constructive argument. The funny thing is the only ppl I've ever met to flaunt their experience on a topic are usually wrong. You clearly have a narrowed understanding on this topic. The purpose of the 9v test is to only open the injector ONCE so that you DON'T "dump an assload of fuel into the cylinder." If you listen for the "tick" with engine running, it's opening and closing multiple times, which would dump fuel into your cylinder (unless it's clogged). Just because the injector ticks, doesn't mean it's not clogged. as a matter of fact, clogged injectors DO happen on z32's...how do I know? Not only did I read other instances of it, but it just happened to me. Do yourself a favor and ask the nearest qualified nissan technician if z32 injectors can clog..but be prepared for a slap in the face. Kind of ironic that you are the epitome of your sig (btw who the f*** quotes themself for their sig?) So please, at least be a man of your word and don't bother addressing me anymore (which I'm sure will result with more of your babbling nonsense).

Zlover knows his shit. He also doles out alot more helpful advice on this forum than probably any other member to numbnuts like you whining for help. You can cry and play with your batteries all you like, you're still going to look like an idiot.

lol who the **** are you? I never said he didn't know a lot about these cars in general, just not on this particular topic apparently. And I wouldn't be saying this if he wasn't bein a prick in the first place.

So you're calling everone on this forum who asks for advice a "numbnut whining for help?" exaggerate much? I was trying to help the OP with the 9v trick, everyone else can take it or leave it...btw, you're gonna look like a bigger idiot listening to the other end of a screwdriver with your car running, but if you prefer looking like a dumbass (which you obviously do) then go have a ball with your screwdriver, hope it gets lodged in your ear drum. Really sad that zdriver is the only forum where I've had a problem with (two) ppl trying to be snobby assholes who think they know it all.

Ban!!

And apparently bart, you havn't met many Z32 owners... we're all dicks and pricks who will beat you with sticks and bricks, while eating a bowl of trix.... cereal that is... when someone acts like you do....

ok so for those of you who still wanna help me and not fight with bartz32. i just went and checked all my injectors. and they all have 11.9 ohms. what kind of aerosol spray can i buy to clean connectors with. i looked at walmart and they didnt have shit. so im gonna try autozone tommorow. but right now i still have the problem narrowed down to either the ptu or engine harness.

you should be able to find something called "eletrical connector cleaner"... it's fast drying and made for cleaning eletrical connectors... also, get a wire brush and that cleaner and scrub any corrision out of the connectors, or replace them if they're very bad.... another thing that helps, the wire clips that hold the injector connectors are highly recommended... sure it makes it a pain in the ass when you need to disconnect one, but i had the connector on my #2 constantly coming un plugged just from normal daily driving and made my car run like shit... and when you looked at it, it didn't look unplugged, you had to push on it to notice...

well i tell u what i am having the same problem with cyl 6 on my car also i just swapped the motor and i was firing on 3 cyl. I cleaned the 2nd gen ptu connectors and i started firing on 5 cyl. I have yet to get the sixth one to fire but i have put a bran new $115 injector in it and its still having problems. I have checked the continuity on the coil wire and its not beeping like the others SOOO with that being said i have an open some where in my wire harness *THIS IS HORSE SHIT!!!!* and the best way to get to the harness is with the motor out. So we all know where this is headed. :( Dude check the continuity in your coil wires ok then reply to me pls.


And to anyone that doesnt agree you dont have to argue we are all grown men and women so dont show your stupidty show your problem solving :)

Come on someone help me with another idea. I cant spank m3s and mustangs with 5 cyl only :D