Ideling too high
Ideling too high
Ok my car has been ideling at about 2,000 RPM. It only does it when iv been driving for a while. In the morning i start it up and it does fine idels at about 800 RPM after it gets warmed up. But then when I go some where at stop lights its at 1700-2000 RPM and some times it bounces around from 900-2000 RPM like its possesed or something. I just replaced the spark plugs with the OEM NGK's and i cheaked all the vaccume lines like 20 times already its not that i dont think. So if anyone has any ideas plz help me out. Im about to take it to the nissian dealer if I cant fix it my self. Thanks
there is a few things that you can actually do to lower your idling. I had the same problem as you did. Try it and see if it helps but becareful.
First there is an Idle Adjusting screw on the drivers side only visible if you go to the right fender looking straight to the other side. Its hard to see but if you can reconize the screw its actually very visble. By turning it you can actually lowers the rpm or raise depending which side you turn the screw.
Second there is the CAS ( crank angle sensor ) locacted in front of the engine on the drivers side. Its held by three 10mm screws loosen it (DONT REVOVE IT) but mark it so you'll know the original spot that it was in if it doenst work. Try rotating it and this will also lowers your idle rpm. ( Im pretty sure adjusting both what Iv'e just mention will work. BUT PUT THE CRANK ANGLE SENSOR BACK WHERE IT WAS IF IT DOENST) Let me know if it works.
First there is an Idle Adjusting screw on the drivers side only visible if you go to the right fender looking straight to the other side. Its hard to see but if you can reconize the screw its actually very visble. By turning it you can actually lowers the rpm or raise depending which side you turn the screw.
Second there is the CAS ( crank angle sensor ) locacted in front of the engine on the drivers side. Its held by three 10mm screws loosen it (DONT REVOVE IT) but mark it so you'll know the original spot that it was in if it doenst work. Try rotating it and this will also lowers your idle rpm. ( Im pretty sure adjusting both what Iv'e just mention will work. BUT PUT THE CRANK ANGLE SENSOR BACK WHERE IT WAS IF IT DOENST) Let me know if it works.
Originally Posted by 1ntegtype1
First there is an Idle Adjusting screw on the drivers side only visible if you go to the right fender looking straight to the other side. Its hard to see but if you can reconize the screw its actually very visble. By turning it you can actually lowers the rpm or raise depending which side you turn the screw.
if you do that, you are just masking the problem
that is for fine tuning your idle when everything else is working correctly
Originally Posted by 1ntegtype1
there is a few things that you can actually do to lower your idling. I had the same problem as you did. Try it and see if it helps but becareful.
First there is an Idle Adjusting screw on the drivers side only visible if you go to the right fender looking straight to the other side. Its hard to see but if you can reconize the screw its actually very visble. By turning it you can actually lowers the rpm or raise depending which side you turn the screw.
Second there is the CAS ( crank angle sensor ) locacted in front of the engine on the drivers side. Its held by three 10mm screws loosen it (DONT REVOVE IT) but mark it so you'll know the original spot that it was in if it doenst work. Try rotating it and this will also lowers your idle rpm. ( Im pretty sure adjusting both what Iv'e just mention will work. BUT PUT THE CRANK ANGLE SENSOR BACK WHERE IT WAS IF IT DOENST) Let me know if it works.
First there is an Idle Adjusting screw on the drivers side only visible if you go to the right fender looking straight to the other side. Its hard to see but if you can reconize the screw its actually very visble. By turning it you can actually lowers the rpm or raise depending which side you turn the screw.
Second there is the CAS ( crank angle sensor ) locacted in front of the engine on the drivers side. Its held by three 10mm screws loosen it (DONT REVOVE IT) but mark it so you'll know the original spot that it was in if it doenst work. Try rotating it and this will also lowers your idle rpm. ( Im pretty sure adjusting both what Iv'e just mention will work. BUT PUT THE CRANK ANGLE SENSOR BACK WHERE IT WAS IF IT DOENST) Let me know if it works.
^^^That's some of the worst advice I've ever read. Do you have any idea what turning the CAS actually does? It adjusts your timing. Never adjust your CAS without a timing light. You could cause serious damage to your engine. Don't give advice if you don't know what you're adjusting.
Like b300z said....adjusting the idle screw is merely masking the true problem. The idle scre is set from the factory and should really be sealed. There is a cause to the high idle and it's not the idle screw. Find the real problem instead of trying to half-*** the repair.
Originally Posted by 91zxtt
^^^That's some of the worst advice I've ever read. Do you have any idea what turning the CAS actually does? It adjusts your timing. Never adjust your CAS without a timing light. You could cause serious damage to your engine. Don't give advice if you don't know what you're adjusting.
Like b300z said....adjusting the idle screw is merely masking the true problem. The idle scre is set from the factory and should really be sealed. There is a cause to the high idle and it's not the idle screw. Find the real problem instead of trying to half-*** the repair.
Like b300z said....adjusting the idle screw is merely masking the true problem. The idle scre is set from the factory and should really be sealed. There is a cause to the high idle and it's not the idle screw. Find the real problem instead of trying to half-*** the repair.
Last edited by 1ntegtype1; Jun 30, 2005 at 09:31 PM.
Yep........ the timing has a nominal setting determined by the factory. You can only set the timing to the nominal setting with a timing light. Besides other problems being created with the timing being off, advancing it will increase idle speed and retarding it will decrease idle speed.
On any car, at any time, with any problem, you first need to start eliminating the variables, starting with a tune-up, ie: good plugs, clean filters, good fuel, etc.... then run ecu codes. If all is o.k. there, then you start the process of elimination.......... let's see, high idle, are the throttle / cc cables properly adjusted? Are the cables becoming frayed and sticking? Do you have any vaccum leaks? Has the iacv been cleaned? Are the injectors leaking? One it's determined that everything is in proper working order, and your idle is still high, you might then need to adjust the little screw.
On any car, at any time, with any problem, you first need to start eliminating the variables, starting with a tune-up, ie: good plugs, clean filters, good fuel, etc.... then run ecu codes. If all is o.k. there, then you start the process of elimination.......... let's see, high idle, are the throttle / cc cables properly adjusted? Are the cables becoming frayed and sticking? Do you have any vaccum leaks? Has the iacv been cleaned? Are the injectors leaking? One it's determined that everything is in proper working order, and your idle is still high, you might then need to adjust the little screw.
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