hks turbo timer IV
 

my turbo timer is stuck on TIMER...when i start the car...instead of it being preset for whatever i set it to...it starts counting down right aways...and if i lower the ebrake it will kill the car because it thinks the ignition is not on or something???

anybody have issues like this before.??

any help is appreciated, ive been searching google for HKS help but i cant find anybody with similar problems....thanks alot...

:D ... disconnect it ..... :D

2nd.
Sounds like the unit is malfunctioning.
Or incorrectly wired/installed.

to me its sounds like its wired into the ecu incorrectly. obviously who ever wired it was able to find the ignition wire...thats why the count down works. now there is a wire that splices into the e-brake line which will deactivate the timmer if the e-brake is not set. (this can be bypassed, but it is a safety feture) i recommend getting the schematics of the main wiring harness to the ecu then verify that each wire off the trubo timer is connected right.

it cant be wired wrong because it worked before...all i did was disconect the batery to change hes clutch ...thats it...

ok ive tried disconecting it and it kills my whole car...

now if i put the ebrake on first notch it doesnt really engage the rear break...and keep the timer going at 10 minutes always i can drive around...

i dont know what tthe hell is up@@@

Go to www.hks turbo timer IV.com........... :D

Seriously tho, I know nothing about turbo timers, but if it worked before you disconnected the battery and it doesn't now, maybe there's an internal battery that's supposed to keep the settings when the power is disconnected, and that internal battery is dead. Might sound kinda dumb, but I had this issue with a water well timer. Even tho external power was restored, the timer wouldn't work until I replaced the battery and then reset all of the times.

The (whatever it is) web site above might be the first place to look to get programming instructions. If it's not posted on their site, a simple email contact might get you a pdf file of the instructions.

I know it's a longshot but................

i checked for internal battery..there is none...i also did contact them but no answer...i called them no answer...sheesh this sucks a big one...i reset the timer...but it foes the same thing...its like the ignition is oposite for some reason...and it sucks i cant unplug the timer...i mean the car should work like it did without it...

thanks for trying to help hehehe

ok i dug further and i unplugged it from the harness that runs under the column...now i dont know where the harnes thats going into the car atach to the other end??? this would make a complete curcuit instead of going trough the timer and actualy might work..i dont know where the plug goes tho...i gotta look around..

ok ive unpluged the harnes...pluged the cars one back in..now its like it never had a timer...but still same shit...cuts my power off right away as if that ebrake switch is always triggered...but theres nothing hooked to it but the wire...and its unpluged@!!

lol........ before, it was the alarm and then it was the turbo timer. Take two steps back. You said that it ran perfectly fine before you did the clutch? Does it have fuel? Does it have fuel pressure? Did you forget to re-attach anything after the dp's /clutch? Did you maybe damage the steel fuel line under the car? :)

no its not like that....yes i tought alarm wouldnt let me...but it is the timer...because i can drive the car around perfectly fine..she pulls like a mule on roids....but as soon as the timer counts to 0 or i lower my ebrake all the way...the power gets cut...

its not fuel or anything...its the damn timer...and i cant figure it out


yeah man...like she drives, idles, starts, and everything like it was brand new...the boost guage goes all the way to the left and oil has steady pressure...when i drive it...boost comes on super fast (those downpipes and testpipes are AWSOME)...clutch needs adjustment as it engages like halfway up, which is way too late...tomorrow ill do that...
evrything is fine except that timer is making things difficult...

Ok, it sounds as if the timer was shorted somehow during the disconnect. Don't hask me how. You said you disconected most of the wires. Where does the timer plug in? At the ECU? Under the dash? To simple fix it, find what the ebrake lead is, usually ground, and connect an alternate source to the timer wire to avoid driving with the brake on. Who installed the timer for you, is there a warranty on the labor.


Just had a thought, does the timer start when you turn on the ignition to run or start. If start and not run then it's not seeing the ignition as on and thinks you have left the car.

no timer is installed under the dash in the harness, yes i will ground out the ebrake switch so i can drive without the handle up...it turns on when i go to the ON notch...it was installed by the previous owner i would guess so no warranty...

that is a good good analogy....

ok ive called HKS and the best they told me is that i musta fried something, some of their older units are more sensitive so i must have fried a breaker inside of it and its stuck on one mode and thats it...

so i ordered a new one and well see if it fixes it...

thanks all

well nope...still same problem...seems as whatever controlls my ignition doesnt recognise the car as being ON when i turn it on...and the timer keeps the car running just because it thinks its off, thats why i can drive it around...when my timer is off and i try and start it...i just see the dash lights blink for a second..something clicks and shuts my power off.....

where should i look in the car about this problem? ECU is fine because when i drive it with the timer on (to keep the car running) it runs strong and smooth no problems....

any help appreciated...

to fix the e-brake problem...disconnect the lead off the timer to the e-brake line and splice it into a constant ground.
is the timer harness specific to your car? if not this could be your problem lies. is the timer just that or does it measure speed, voltage and so on?

nope just that...i already fixed the ebrake...i got more issues to look at im only gettin aroung 7 pounds of boost when i hook up the gauge...from what ive read this is safety boost...im gonna run ECU diagnostics later on today...like it doesnt get close to 9, just goes right under 7 and hovers there no matter how hard i push it...

ok i did the ECU diagnostic run and i got code 34...3 long flashes and 4 short ones...and thats it that keeps repeating...so i looked it up and it says

34.Knock sensor circuit
-detonation sensor circuit, open or short circuit is detected, check harness, connectors, and sensors..


where is this located on the 300? could have i done something to disturb the circuit while changing hes clutch??? if sombody could point out the location of the knock sensor i can check over the wires and stuff....also would this cause safety boost???

http://www.300zx.co.uk/cgi-bin/manua...ault&total=133

That would make sense. Hope this is it and you solve it once and for all.

god...its still a PITA to replace...and i just finished with the clutch too a few days ago..god...i shoulda left the battery on so i wouldnhave fried anything..

ive read alot of srticles about relocating it...im not sure about it...any input.... i mean i dun wanna phuck the car up..after all its not mine..

also ive cleared my ecu...and took the car for a drive...and tested the ecu again..and gives me code 55..which is ok

how long does the ecu take to record the fault code again????

Relocate for easier access in the future I guess. It does look like a royal pains in the ass. Hopefully, the problem itself is not with the sensor but with the wiring or connector.

I'll let the TT guys speak up, as they would know better.

I don't see that you F'd up the car. Buddy, you basically are restoring the damn thing. Wish my brother would do that for me.

I am a die hard HKS fan...but i highly recomend the Greddy unit with the HKS wiring harness. I did a write up on my timer install on my 92 NA car a while back.