I have been doing some research on aftermarket engine internals for my rebuild.(Sportcompactcarweb.com)-you have to cut and paste-i cant figure out how to send as a hyperlink. I was going to go all Tomei internals but money is holding me back. Pistions, con rods, timing belt, and headgaskets from Tomei cost $4000 give or take a couple hundred. Note-that is warehouse prices minus my tuning shop's discount. So...Im thinking Weisco pistons with eagle rods. My question is in the quality of these products and if they can hold up. I want to hear from fellow Z enthusists not from somone just trying to make comission off me. Thanks for your input!

 

Yes and yes.

 

Well i got the internals from SGPracing. my next question is: what is the proper meathod and time that it takes to properly break in the internals prior to aggresive driving?

 

Any time you do major engine work it's best to taake it easy to make sure everything is working properly, but when you do a piston and ring change you want to allow for the ring to set in. Watch your water temp. and oil pressure and after a few 100 miles you should be able to start making short blast, but always keep a eye on your gages.
Same holds true for a cam change. You want to allow the cam lobes and followers to set in.

 

I am running Wiseco pistons with eagle rods...holding up well.

AMZ's 300 has wiseco pistons and eagle rods and he has done many dyno runs (video on 300zxclub.com) hitting 8500 RPM.

 

I appreciate the feedback! Im sending the block off today to get bored over. Funny thing...tt pistion stock are said to be size 87. mine were 86 + or - .5 of each other. the weisco pistions advertized at 88mm are 87 + or - .2 anyone else experience this? also anyone no when Z1 started selling rebuild kits? I found them to be the cheapest.

 

Not sure exactly, but I think the advertised size (88mm) is based on net cylinder bore diameter (or what you'd theoretically) machine the cylinder bore diameter to. The actual piston diameter has the designed in clearance to the cylinder bore plus/minus piston expansion diameter at operating temperature. It's because of the manufacturing tolerances allowed for the pistons, that you send the pistons to the machine shop with the block, so that each cylinder can be machined to fit each piston. ie: don't mix them up afterwards.

I hope this makes sense, it does to me................

 

Z1motorsports has a decently priced engine build package that you might as well do while you have it apart...comes with the eagle rods, weisco pistons, complete head gasket set, new water and oil pumps, and new timing belt i believe...all for 1750...not too bad, it's on my to-do list...

 

aren't Z1 engines faulty? i think i reas it somewhere. not sure though

 

i'm not talking about a z1 engine, i'm talking about a package deal they sell that includes the weisco pistons and eagle rods...among other things recommended/required when doing that work, and i have never heard that the built z1 engines are faulty...the only things i ever hear bad about z1 were that some people prefer czp.us because they're a bit cheaper in a lot of similar/same items, and that one person on a forum i remember hearing had trouble with reliability issues of the z1 turbocharger upgrade kits...other than that i've never heard anything bad about them...



hell, i hope they dont sell bad engines, because i got a clip from them for my swap, and it's almost done...i dont wanna find out after 3 months of work and spending that i have a bad motor...but i will be checking the compression as soon as its done...but the compression did feel good when i turned the motor manually...

 

I thought this was the case i was asking to make sure. for people who are running weiscon pistons and eagle rods...is there a noticeable difference in weight as far as rotational mass...noticable spool up?

 

Can't answer the weight question with factual numbers but, The new pistons are larger in diameter than stock......... therefore if they are the same shape as stock they will be heavier. Forged material is denser and heavier than cast material, so if the stockers are cast and the wisecos are forged and they're relatively the same size and shape the forged pistons will weigh more. Now, for some applications, you can buy forged aftermarket pistons that weigh less than stock cast pistons, because the added strength has been optimized and the new piston is therefore smaller in size, ie: less volume of material. The simple answer to your question is to weight the two. A heavier piston will reduce efficeincy.

 

I thought this was the case i was asking to make sure.

 

I've got to believe that they are lighter; otherwise, turning 8500 RPM's would be pretty difficult.

 

Hey i wonder. will strokign out the VG30 make a big diference in performance wize? liek instead of a 3.0 makig it a 3.2(yes i kwno the kit is 12,000) just wondering.

 

The cylinder walls are so thin with that, I would believe that the engine's longevity would be effeted. I haven't seen a dyno for the increased displacement. As CC always says though, 'There's no replacement for displacement.'

 

my friend had it done....well, actually, his father did.
He blew his NA motor in hopes of getting a TT done.
Then low and behold as he was saving the money up, his Dad says surprise, Happy B-Day and gives him a stroked 3.2 for his birthday. Stupid dad.
It was plenty fast...too bad he never had it dynoed before he sold it.

 

In theory........... you can get close to or bigger than 3.4L with stroking and boring it over.

Fact, The posts are around here discussing the Jun stroker kit for $10k and another american company that will provide a complete stroker rotating assembly, to your specs for $5k.

Fact, a 3.4L TT with provide more h.p. than a 3.0L TT. A 3.4L n/a will provide more h.p. than a 3.0L n/a.

Theoretically, I believe, a 3.4L n/a will provide more h.p. and substantially more torque than a stock TT.

Most of my post #12 can be considered to be factual.

 

sorry guys im hyjacking my thread back...isnt this just 300Z luck...i got the engine built and planted back in the bay. it was the moment of truth. i turned the key and she wouldnt start. the starter was turning but it seemed like no spark. To narrow down the problem i tried this trick; pulled the CAS out of its mounting bracket, set one spak plug selenoid with plug on the intake and grounded it to complete the circuit. with the key in the "on" position spun the center section of the CAS. i could hear the injectors cycling and the fuel pump running but no spark. the next day, hooked up a different PTU and sure enough that was it. hopefully this experience will aid some of you one day.