Cuts out at around 2500rpm
Cuts out at around 2500rpm
Ok guys, new z owner, just got a jdm swap, was running fine in the beginning but now wont rev above 2500-2600rpm, pulled the codes off the ecu and they are 12,13, forty something (detonation sensor) and 51. when the engine is on and idling the check engine light goes off, if i press the gas half way it comes back on, if i barely press the gas right when it hits 2500, the check engine light comes back on. Once i hit about 2500-2600rpm it cuts and goes back and forth.
Last edited by nissanracer; Feb 7, 2006 at 09:51 PM. Reason: forgot to put somethin
Originally Posted by nissanracer
Ok guys, new z owner, just got a jdm swap, was running fine in the beginning but now wont rev above 2500-2600rpm, pulled the codes off the ecu and they are 12,13, forty something (detonation sensor) and 51. when the engine is on and idling the check engine light goes off, if i press the gas half way it comes back on, if i barely press the gas right when it hits 2500, the check engine light comes back on. Once i hit about 2500-2600rpm it cuts and goes back and forth.
it's a MAS or fuel delivery problem (might be CAS as well, but not as likely). Since it's cutting out around 2500 rpm, I would guess that it's likely a bad fuel pump (the TT fuel pump runs on 3 settings, respectively, low, medium, and high. A single speed of the pump can die, and I think around 2500 is when it kicks into medium, so if your medium and high settings on your pump are not functioning, it'd have a rev limiter-type effect on the engine. I know this from experience, my high setting died on me and I'd hit a wall closer to 3500-4000rpms under boost).
Here's my writeup on fuel system diagnostics from another forum....
If BOTH your fuel pressure regulator and dampener are fine, it's probably your MAS or fuel pump. You'll have to search on how to diagnose those, because I don't remember off the top of my head. I expect it'll either be your FPR or pump though.
good luck
Here's my writeup on fuel system diagnostics from another forum....
Originally Posted by ZLover4Life
To diagnose, all you need a fuel pressure gauge... tap into the hose that comes off your fuel filter. Start the car.
What's your fuel pressure when running? It should be 44.1psi or in that area. ... If it's not near 44.1psi, your fuel pressure regulator is bad. Turn the car off... does it hold the pressure or does it drop? If it drops, it's surely your FPR. So symptoms of a bad FPR are: irregular fuel pressure and not holding pressure when the car is off.
This will cause the problem because 2.5k-3k is when your fuel pump kicks into a higher gear (it has 3 speeds, NA pump has 2 [for reference]) and the fuel pressure will shoot up and it'll run so rich that it can't rev any higher. Good news: Fuel Pressure Regulator is $60-$70 new.
Now, start it again. Is the needle steady or is it vibrating/fluxuating? If it's moving noticably, your dampener is bad. Your dampener takes the fuel pulses from the pump and turns it into a steady stream. While this may not cause your problems, if it's bad, you'd be smart to replace it, since that's only $60-$70 as well.
What's your fuel pressure when running? It should be 44.1psi or in that area. ... If it's not near 44.1psi, your fuel pressure regulator is bad. Turn the car off... does it hold the pressure or does it drop? If it drops, it's surely your FPR. So symptoms of a bad FPR are: irregular fuel pressure and not holding pressure when the car is off.
This will cause the problem because 2.5k-3k is when your fuel pump kicks into a higher gear (it has 3 speeds, NA pump has 2 [for reference]) and the fuel pressure will shoot up and it'll run so rich that it can't rev any higher. Good news: Fuel Pressure Regulator is $60-$70 new.
Now, start it again. Is the needle steady or is it vibrating/fluxuating? If it's moving noticably, your dampener is bad. Your dampener takes the fuel pulses from the pump and turns it into a steady stream. While this may not cause your problems, if it's bad, you'd be smart to replace it, since that's only $60-$70 as well.
good luck
Please read this link, it may get you to where you need to be without question. There are too many factors involved. Eliminate the codes you read and then diagnos your car based on these things.
http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/PICS/hesitation/hesitation.html
Here is a table of the codes with their meanings :
11: Crankshaft position sensor circuit
12: Mass air flow sensor circuit
13: Engine coolant temperature sensor circuit
14: Vehicle speed sensor circuit
21: Ignition signal circuit
31: ECM/ECU
*32: EGR function
33: Heated oxygen sensor circuit (Left side)
34: Knock sensor circuit
*35: EGR temperature sensor circuit
42: Fuel temperature sensor circuit
43: Throttle position sensor circuit
*45: Injector leak
*51: Injector circuit
53: Heated osygen sensor circuit (Right side)
54: Signal circuit from A/T control unit to ECM/ECU (A/T only)
55: No malfunctions in the above circuits
* : Not available for non-california models.
A little more meaning :
11 - crank angle sensor circuit, 1 deg or 120 deg signal is not received for the first few seconds during engine cranking or not often enough at high RPM- check harness, connectors and the crank angle sensor.
12 - Air flow meter circuit, open or short circuit is detected- check harness, connectors and the air flow meter.
13- engine temperature circuit, open or short circuit is detected- check harness, connectors and sensor.
21 - ignition signal circuit, the ECU is not detecting ignition signal from the transistor ignition unit- check harness, connectors and power transistor unit.
33- Oxygen sensor, - check harness, connectors and sensor.
34 - detonation sensor circuit , open or short circuit is detected- check harness, connectors and sensor.
42 - Fuel temperature sensor circuit, open or short circuit is detected- check harness, connectors and sensor.
43 - throttle sensor circuit, open or short circuit is detected- check harness, connectors and sensor.
54 - signal circuit from the auto transmission computer is open or short circuit check harness & connector. (Auto only)
http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/PICS/hesitation/hesitation.html
Here is a table of the codes with their meanings :
11: Crankshaft position sensor circuit
12: Mass air flow sensor circuit
13: Engine coolant temperature sensor circuit
14: Vehicle speed sensor circuit
21: Ignition signal circuit
31: ECM/ECU
*32: EGR function
33: Heated oxygen sensor circuit (Left side)
34: Knock sensor circuit
*35: EGR temperature sensor circuit
42: Fuel temperature sensor circuit
43: Throttle position sensor circuit
*45: Injector leak
*51: Injector circuit
53: Heated osygen sensor circuit (Right side)
54: Signal circuit from A/T control unit to ECM/ECU (A/T only)
55: No malfunctions in the above circuits
* : Not available for non-california models.
A little more meaning :
11 - crank angle sensor circuit, 1 deg or 120 deg signal is not received for the first few seconds during engine cranking or not often enough at high RPM- check harness, connectors and the crank angle sensor.
12 - Air flow meter circuit, open or short circuit is detected- check harness, connectors and the air flow meter.
13- engine temperature circuit, open or short circuit is detected- check harness, connectors and sensor.
21 - ignition signal circuit, the ECU is not detecting ignition signal from the transistor ignition unit- check harness, connectors and power transistor unit.
33- Oxygen sensor, - check harness, connectors and sensor.
34 - detonation sensor circuit , open or short circuit is detected- check harness, connectors and sensor.
42 - Fuel temperature sensor circuit, open or short circuit is detected- check harness, connectors and sensor.
43 - throttle sensor circuit, open or short circuit is detected- check harness, connectors and sensor.
54 - signal circuit from the auto transmission computer is open or short circuit check harness & connector. (Auto only)
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