90 TT block ?s
 

Hey I got just got my block from zlover and Right now I got the crank out and I'm planing to take the block this next week Friday to the machine shop for a hot tank and honeing. I was reading about cylinders 5 and 6 temp problem. And wondering if I should get coolant passage drill out and oil too. Just wondering if anyone has done this. Or any advice About the build on the block.

Have them remove the casting flash from the coolant galleys and you should be fine. I never had an overheating problem with that block.

After hot tanking it, I recommend having them paint it (not black) to help isolate oil leaks in the future.

Yea ,okay I'll have to look up the pics for casting flash show the guy if he's not sure and .paint white so easily noticed

I don't know if white is the best option... it'd probably look like shit (and get noticeably dirty). Base it off the color scheme of your car. Red, blue, etc.

my car painted pearl white, imma just do silver.

Silver's a good choice.

LOL ^^^^^ i though silver was a good idea to once...

Attachment 19823

^ would be easy as hell to see where leaks were. And it may not look pretty, but you can't see the VG30DE[TT] block when it's in the chassis, anyway... you'd have to be underneath it or in the process of disassembly to see the block itself.

Very true.

Zlover i was looking at turbos for my z and came across the"700 hp ttz package" from z1motorsports. 500rwhp is the max id like to get. So this pack would put me up there around 500. ya think ? Im looking at some pistons and rods but not sure what i should get. Or what low compression i should run. My question is would it be safe if i got rod and piston cranks Arp stud for bottom end Or would the bottom end need more for 500rwhp? cause i read that stock can handle 500 max but i want to be safe. could i also leave the valve train or should i upgrade?? For sure thought a valve job tho.



Here is a list if things i thought let me know what ya think if somthign i dont have or i dont need any input is great.

Driveshaft 1 piece { using na tranmission (OK??) }
New axles upgrade
Clutch upgrade
pressure plate upgrade
flywheel upgrade
Injector upgrade
Fuel rail upgrade (300 degree rail not needed?)
side mount intercooler (Stillen)
new radiator (it got like rust on the inside and i cant get it out. Pretty bad huh ?)
wastegate ( turbos should come with internal ? or should just get a 44mm one?)
A/F meter ( heard AEM makes good wideband)
boost controller
dual pop charger (or should run one ?)
Fuel pump (walbro 255)
Fuel Reg

Headers idk cause of turbos. about headers and turbos. goona read about this

not compelet list either. Still reading about stuff and learning what imma need.




Thanks for reading.

First off, the VG30DETT has done over 700rwhp with stock components (Sean Wagner on TT.NET did 744.4rwhp with all stock bottom end with swain coated stock pistons). It's not typical and won't last as long as a built motor, but the engine is very robust. So as far as choosing components for 500rwhp, that comes down to your budget. You can go Wiesco pistons and Eagle rods if you want to upgrade and save money. You can go JE and Crower if you have some more money. Any setiup will handle 500rwhp just fine - even good condition stock stuff. Call the guys at Specialty Z to ask for advice on this - when it comes to building the VG30DETT, I don't think there is anybody better.

1 piece driveshaft is a waste of money in every sense of the word. You increase the risk of NVH and there are no real performance gains.

You can use the NA transmission, but you need a shim for mounting the starter due to the larger diameter flywheel (Z1 sells the shim). The guts of the transmissions are the same between NA and TT.

300Degree rails are not "needed," but if you want to do new style injectors (which is ABSOLUTELY recommend), you'll need to have the lower plenum machined and get the new style rails. If you get 300Degree rails, there is no machining required - you can get 300Degree rails that allow new style injectors in the early plenums.

Only REALLY HUGE turbos come with external wastegates. Just about everything for your power goals will have internal, and there is nothing wrong with that.

Dual POP is a great idea - there are gains to be had at every power level, especially at your goal levels. Get the Selin translator and a 2nd MAF so that the ECU gets the proper air reading (otherwise, you face idle and driveability/stalling issues).

255lph Walbro pump is unnecessary - the stock pump can provide 500rwhp without a problem (in fact, the Z32TT fuel pump is frequently used on dyno queen Supras).

Why do you list fuel regulator? You already have a fuel pressure regulator, and as long as it works fine, you don't need anything more. As long as you have the proper size injectors and the correct ECU program, there is no need to EVER bother with the fuel pressure.

Wideband AF meter isn't a horrible idea, but it's certainly not needed. I did 470rwhp on that motor and didn't bother having one.

Turbos don't have headers, they have manifolds. Get MSP. If you buy AMS, bunnies and kittens will be executed.

You also need downpipes... get Specialty Z 3" split-flange.


All in all, I did 469rwhp on 93 octane pump gas with single pop, 2.5" old-style split flange downpipes, test pipes, HKS Hi-Power cat-back, JWT ECU, 555cc/min injectors, Stillen intercoolers, HKS GT2530 turbos, and supporting mods. Had I gotten dual POP (w/Selin translator), MSP manifolds, and 3" SZ exhaust components, I would've been WELL over 500rwhp.

Thanks for the advice. Kool i could prolly have this done, build complete done by this next summer coming up for sure. =)