300ztt engine pull
 

I did all the research and everything on how to pull the engine. Its actually not near as bad as i thought. One question though. In the service manual it says if you have a manual twin turbo, you do not have to remove the tranny when you pull it, that the tranny weighs the back of the engine down making it stand up and come straight out. Would you reccomend removing it anyways cause it seems safer and easier when pulling the engine. Also on the blown turbo issue iv had , i took off my intercooler piping to look into the intake plenum and it looked kinda oily in there.Is that normal or should i pull the plenum and clean it well before i finish up.

Some people leave the trans attached, some don't... it comes down to preference. Do whatever makes you happy. But if you leave the trans attached, drain it so the fluid doesn't spill everywhere... sulfer dioxide is not a pretty smell.

And it's never a bad idea to clean out the intake tract. Get a plenum gasket and pull the plenum (search on how to eliminate the EGR and bypass the coolant lines while you're in there), spray the hell out of it with brake cleaner.

Good luck. And take your time. It's not bad, just tedious.

After removing the intercoolers i also started the car. Didnt seem dangerous or anything, but it should run kind of awful when its not getting teh right amount of forced induction right, and also i have a basicly shot wiring harness.. I got a really slight knock in teh back left corner to, its always been that but i think its due to the wiring of the harness and backwards vacuum lines.. Is that possible.

Yeah, without intercoolers (I'm guessing you didn't connect the hoses between them), you're sucking in completely unmetered air... the ECU has no idea how much air the engine is drawing in so it can't compensate properly with fuel.

As for the knock... I doubt it's caused by wiring or vacuum line problems. It's probably a slightly worn bearing. Obviously I can't tell you for sure through the internet though. Keep on top of your oil changes and you might be able to get by for a few years without having to tear into the engine. As I said, I don't suspect it's from wiring or the vacuum hoses though.

Been a while since i replied but is there a way to leave the tranny on the car mounted and all just unbolted from the motor and supported in the front, and when pulling the engine move it a lil forward then up, or do the rods connecting them to long for that.Also if i leave the tranny connected when i pull it out, how will the fluids leak out.

You won't be able to do that.

Quit trying to cut corners... the trans is not hard to remove, just heavy. Remove the front half of the driveshaft by disconnecting the center support bearing, remove the starter and slave cylinder, disconnect the three electrical connections, unbolt the shifter from the trans, then remove trans bolts and trans mount bolts... and have a jack and a friend help you get it out.

And fluid will leak out from the output, where the driveshaft goes into the trans - it is not sealed and the fluid will pour out if you don't drain it...

OK thnks for the help, also i got my load leveler in the other day and im pretty sure i know where to bolt it to,but not sure how any help with that, and what downpipes and test pipes do you recommend, i think im going with the megan kit cause its an all in 1 thing and cheap or should i get czp's.

i'm in the process of pulling a motor and i'm taking the tranny out. I can't get to the top bolt on the starter though to get it off.

You get what you pay for. A LOT of people have had problems with the fitment of Megan products, some have had success. Either way, they are only 2.24" ID, which makes them no larger than stock (less than, actually). Get Specialty Z 2.5" or 3" downpipes depending on your money, and get any 2.5" or 3" test pipes you can afford (they won't fit right if you go cheap, but at least you're getting the piping size increase, unlike Megan Racing). And if the test pipes don't fit right, drill out the holes a little bit so you can maneuver it until it does.

http://www.twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg...msg_id=1599314
http://www.twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg...msg_id=1541032

And I've never used anything other than bolts and a chain, so I can't help you with the load leveler.

It's a b!tch if it's never been removed before and the precat heat shields are still installed. Try removing the heat shields and use either a gear wrench or a stubby wrench... I don't remember which was easier.

And get downpipes... the starter is SO much easier to install/remove with downpipes installed.

Your the greatest and one more thing, i found a sale on z1 intake piping with hks bov's preinstalled for a lil over 500 bucks. Should i get those or just get new intake piping and rely on the stock actuators. My piping is stock and is dry rotting.

Oh and also are the test pipes reccomended or is it not much to worry about.

Stock recirculation valves are sufficient. You can also get blow off valves to replace the recirculation valves later on (they do mount in the same location). There is no need for hardpipes, in my opinion. But it comes down to preference... if you want them, get them... but you definitely don't need them.

Test pipes are a gray area... there are power gains (I was able to tell a REALLY nice difference), but they are illegal to use on the streets. Again, you don't need them, but if you want to make power the stock cats (or any cat) is going to be a bottleneck in the system. Power is made through free-flowing exhausts, and you can't get any more free-flowing than an empty pipe (test pipe).

If you're asking because of the price of the Specialty Z equipment, here's my answer. I would MUCH rather have Specialty Z downpipes and deal with stock cats for a while until I could afford test pipes than have Megan Racing downpipes and test pipes on my car.

Not sure if this is cutting corners but am i able to pull the engine with all the compressors and pulleys starter power steering ac and such. What can i leave on and what do i need to pull. Sorry for giving you trouble and making me look like an idiot.

It's no trouble... I'm here to answer questions.

Leave the AC compressor in the chassis (not only is it illegal for you to disconnect it without vacuuming out the refrigerant, but it'll save you from having to recharge it later on). Leave the power steering pump and alternator on the engine.

Sorry man i meant a/c pump lol, Basically im asking about all the belt driven things on the engine. What needs to be removed. thats makes it a lil more simple, and also im not sure where to bolt to the engine.

he answered that. less the bolt part. ac stays on the chassis, ps pump and alternator come with the engine

How did you read my post and not realized I answered that question? I was just proper with my terminology... it's not an AC "pump" it's an AC compressor.

And if you're asking where to mount the chain to so that you can lift the engine out, I use the passenger's side top trans bolt and I bought a longer plenum bolt to put into the front driver's side plenum bolt hole... probably not a recommended way, but it's never failed me. I've also used the bolts on the sides of the plenum (the ones that hold in the bracket that mounts to the cylinder head).

Sorry didt mean to cause problems the service manual just called it an a/c pump and when installing the motor on my civic it had both a pump and a compressor so i figured this did to. I thought most cars did. I start college monday so its going to be a hard job to get around to.

Are you thinking of the AC condenser? Because every car has a compressor and condenser (that's the heat exchanging component of the AC system)... but technically the AC "pump" isn't a pump... it's a compressor. Manuals do weird things... they also call our crank angle sensor a "distributor."

Thats where im going wrong sorry bout that. Im still lil nervous bout attaching the chains there to pull the engine. Theres just not mch room to support the weight it looks like.

Just make sure there's no slack that can bend/snap the bolts. Use washers and make sure it's tight. Don't lift it higher than you need to and go slowly.

Worst case, you drop it and have to replace the oil pan and oil pump... that's basically the extent of the damage you could do from a reasonable drop. You'd have to purposely try to do worse than that.

Im more worried bout it beaking off a chunk of the engine cause its so high not really worried bout the bolts but is this where im supposed to bolt it to, both bolts on both sides of the engine, and thanks for all the help. http://www.ttzd.com/tech/engine/engine.html

That's where I did it from the first time.

As I said, I've started to use a trans bolt hole and a plenum bolt hole since then (I find it easier to thread those than on the sides - not much room there).

And a chunk of engine won't break off if you don't drop it... not to mention that'd have to be one HELL of a drop to do that. Once it's out, get it on the stand immediately.

I dont have a stand is it possible i can work on it while on the cherry picker.