So when I got my Z I ran a 13.7 and my friend ran a 13.5. Unrthodox pulleys and stillen cone filter 265's in the rear (17" momo wheels)

The following trip to the drags I burned my clutch up terribly.

Last wednesday I went out now with a FMIC, JWT Street Clutch, testpipes, HKS Hi-Power Exhaust, and stock TT wheels (245's)

I ran a 15.1, 14.8, and a 15.4. Needless to say I was horribly embarrassed and pissed off. My car felt wrong, on the way home some guy in a GLI Jetta was driving like a douche after leaving the track. I downshifted to 3rd went by him and he immediately downshifted I stayed ahead of him but not by enough car lengths to make logical sense. I looked at my boost guage and I was maxed out @ 5psi!!!! I was like I thought mabye my IC piping was loose. I got home and went to bed. I woke up the next morning I was going to pull my bumper and check my piping after work but, on the way to work was boosting 9/10psi again! On my lunch break I reached through my bumperand under and all my piping felt solid. I havn't had my boost issue since last wednesday....any reason you can think this would happen? Other than my Z was being a shy little b*tch!

Pissed off cuz I wasted $15 and looked liked an idiot!

 

Get SMIC's. A hot running engine will underperform, and the gauge won't show it because the gauge doesn't start rising from the middle until the temps are really hot (it was designed that way so that if it was a tad above normal people wouldn't continually think it was overheating when everything was still in an acceptable heat range). This is why I never responded to your claims that your engine hasn't run hot yet... the stock gauge won't tell you how hot its running until it starts getting too hot. So there's part of your boost problem... your car was probably heatsoaked like a bitch in... well... heat.

As for running over a second slower... again... GET SMIC's. That front mount is causing pressure drop that is killing your powerband, and it's blocking airflow to your intake, killing power, and it's probably not that efficient to begin with.

 

wow at the temp sensor. and to think i was so proud that my car had always held a perfect temperature. i kinda don't like that. sure it works. i just thought it was a little more accurate than that.

 

Well every car is going to have some fluctuation in the engine temperature... Nissan didn't want every customer taking the car to a dealership simply because the Z32TT can vary a lot with its temperature. Think of it as a good thing... as long as it doesn't go up, Nissan feels it's within safe operating range. But that doesn't mean (at all) that it's at optimum operating temp... and that is why it's useless for determining how bad of an idea an FMIC is in normal conditions... but sometimes that gauge will rise with an FMIC in the right conditions.

 

While this all may be true heat was not the issue here. Clearly my car was running incorrectly while I was at the track and on the way home. I can drive my Z around on hot days for an hour or more and it still boosts @ 9psi. I was just wondering what could have caused me to run @ 5psi for that one evening. I said my car felt wrong, the power wasn't there that I usually have while driving I was focused on my tach and never looked @ my boost guage while racing but I can only assume it was running @ 5psi during my runs like it was on the way home.

I know dragging my car will make it hot but I can assure you thats not the reason I was running incorrectly. I let my engine cool off with plenty of time between runs, when I was drifiting my Z all day in the sun I didn't incur any boost issues...

 

you waited 4 hours between runs? Because from what i've seen it I can start my car after 4 hours and it still is warm...

 

4.5hrs and mines still been hot, I waited til my intake didn't burn my hand to close the hood lmao. Was Nissan ****ing with it's engineers. "Here is this engine build the engine bay around it"....WTF! a few more inches of clearance all around would have been appreciated...

 

they were thinking they wanted to get the lowest hood they could because they largely chose RWD layout so that they could have the hood that low. they were also thinking that they would put a massive fan and very nicely fitting shroud on the front to get enough air in there to compensate for the small engine room. they did put thought into it. they felt that the car couldn't be any different than it did turn out if it was going to sell as well as it did in all the markets it was being sold in. you should read the enthusiast's guide.

 

If it's a good read then post a link

 

i looked for the link on tt.net but i can't find it again.

 

Your searching skills are still lacking.

http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300z...f-version.html

Direct to PDF:
http://www.fairladyz32.com/downloads...enthusiast.pdf

Found it by searching "wheel police"

 

wheel police? is that a joke? i was searching "enthusiast's guide link" and didn't find it.

 

Look at the responses to the thread... someone else beat me to calling it out. There are SEVERAL Z's in that guide with the wheels on backwards (the full size clay model even has backwards wheels). So no, it's not a joke... that's how I found it. The key to being able to find a post later on is to remember something unique about it. So I searched wheel police and sorted by date, looked at results in the area of when I remembered it being posted.

And just searching "enthusiast's" probably would've nailed it, too... you were too specific.

 

oh ok i see. that's funny that the clay model had the wheels on backwards... i guess it didn't matter at that point.

 

I would guess that you went into saftey mode. I would pull codes and see what it looks like. May have been the heat causing early det...

 

Bingo. Safety boost cuts boost down to the wastegate preset of ~6psi... caused by detonation or temperature issues (both the det sensor and second water temp sensor feed the ECU signals that it uses for safety boost). But he didn't listen to me about his car running hot despite the fact that I told him the gauge wasn't accurate...

Problem will be remedied by a) removing the FMIC to allow the engine to get the air it needs b) bypassing the det sensor.

 

I am guessing it was wording and he needed to understand that he was dropping into safety boost. I am sure you are dead on with what caused the problem, just some of us need to understand what it is going on along with why it is occurring.

 

This sorta sounds like all the other times I've encountered threads about people's running issues and everyone tells them to check their timing. They never check their timing generally because they don't know how and refuse to admit it, then just proclaim there is nothing wrong with their timing. I could see on an earlier Z car with an L-motor that a FMIC would work well because there's generally a larger opening in the front and more room all around the engine, but on the Z32 where everything looks like it's been shoehorned in there you're going to have very little room for that FMIC to really work without blocking the radiator, then not to mention all the additional heatsoak those objects are going to see simply because there's so little room for airflow.

 

Right there with ya...

 

take off the front bumper and valance like the dorifto kids do JDM!

 

water to air IC FTW!

 

I'm going to take it off...I stated that in another thread. Probably will be a while tho I just got my 240sx running so the Z is getting detailed and put into my garage while I pay off my credit cards. Once those are taken care of tho I'll be collecting parts from my build sheet...=) Should be exciting stuff