Short circuit or Electrical problem unfixable???
 

ok you guys I have tryed everithing. my car's battery keeps dying. it's a brand new battery. before I bought this battery I left the ligths on the car on for about the whole weekend. so yeah it oviously killed the battery. me and my pop's where going to jump start the car. I did it nissan style, like the manual says. conect the red cable to the + terminal and plug the black cable to the body. then do it the same on the other veicle. so I plug them in and go inside the house for the keys. as i step out i see smoke coming out from under the battery. i look and the battery's fusible link is blown and all the gauges are @ the top. [160mph, 9000rpm, hot, full tank of gas] so i turn the switch and everithing dies. i then unplug both veicles. I order a new battery fusible link and put it in. so then nothign in the interior works exept for the dash. so I take it to the electrician and he fixes it [a blown fuse]. but for some reason the car keeps killing the battery. I look arround the electrical and i find out that the killswitch of the car has has bin wired direcly to the fisible box on the driverside of the car. [the one with all the fusible links] so i take off the tape and I find 3 spliced wires. i deside to stop. [I was not even half way there] but the thing that trips me out is that the car did not do this before the jumpstar insident. everithing works fine exept that it drains the battery. i take it to work. [i work 7 hours a day] and it does not drain the battery but it does drain it overnight. [I sleep like 8 - 10 hours a night.] so what do you guy' think is wrong with my Z? has anyone experienced this before or know of someone??? :( :confused:

What electical modifications have been made to the car. Any possibility that a custom sound system has gone bad? Once you jump start the car, can the alternator charge the battery? (Will it start after it has been running for 10-15 mins?) Just wondering if there is something screwy in your alternator or voltage regulator circuit that may be shorting out. Come to think of it, if the voltage regulator is stuck then you could experience much of the chaos that you describe.

yeah after I jumstart the sucker everithign works fine. the alternator does charge the battery. and yeah I can turn it on and of as much as I please orneed after it's in on for 5 seconds. but liekIsaid after I leave it overnight to sleep that's when the magic hapens.

There are some diodes in the alternator that may be going bad as well. Looking at the wiring diagram after going through the fusible link, all the wires seem to go to the alternator. Have you considered removing it and getting it tested? Here's instruction how to remove it.

http://300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/m...ault&total=133

uhhh? the alternator is charging the battery but can it also drain it??? but no I have not goten it tested.

another diagnostic angle you could consider is unplugging/removing the wires from the alternator overnight, and then see if the battery drains. A nasty reach, to be sure. Just a thought.

Odd, but possible, if it is beginning to break down or developing a short.

Does the battery ever run dry? IF the charging mechanism is going bad, you may be over-charging the battery too.

don;t know what U mean but the battery is a "DIEHARD WEATHER HANDLER" from sears.

You mentioned killing the battery. If you overcharge one, it is possible to boil out most of the water (going dry) and then it won't hold a charge. Indicates a charging circuit issue. Again, just a thought.

ohhh ok I see what you are saying. thanx for the tip. well the battery does not completly die. when I conect teh jumper cables everithign comes to life. and it works fine. but yeah I'll try that alternator thing tomorrow. and i'll tell you the results @ night. but keep me coming with possible thing that can happen.

I agree with the possible regulator problem. You can pull it out and have it checked at auto parts place. It really sounds like you got your jumper cables crossed at some point and fried some wires somewhere.

I've had to chase these things down before. You can start by checking the battery voltage with the engine running. It should show, I believe, close to 15 volts. If not, check at the alternator. If o.k. there, replace battery cables. Then take your electrical tester to your fuse blocks, and with the keys out of the ignition and fuses removed, start checking for current across the contacts and to ground. Any current at a circuit should be the one with the short.

I've seen the diode barrier break down on an 88' chevy p/u. It would trickle out over several days and the battery would go dead. The alternator checked good, but would bleed back when not running. If you saw smoke under the battery area check the harness for melted and shorted wires.
Also we had a problem with a "Dead Heart" battery, they aren't as good as they used to be. The Nissan shop left the lights on, on the 300 and it jumped fine but could never get it to keep a charge again. It was a brand new Battery too. Another new battery fixed the problem, that time. Had other electrical problems since.
Just another 2 cents worth.

I would think that if there was a problem with the alternator, then you'd get a warning light on the dash, but not necessarily. If the alternator was overcharging, then you would know it. The lights would be brighter and most aftermarket stereos have protection circuits in them that would shut them off if there was too much current going to them. With the car running, you should have 14.4 volts (give or take)at the battery. Get rid of that kill switch.

1st thing...after you get the battery re-charged, disconnect it and leave it overnight. In the morning, re-connect it and see what happens. If it's dead, then it's your battery. If it still has a charge, then it's fine and you can rule it out as a problem.

2nd thing...try what lightspeed recommended. Disconnect the alternator for the night. Reconnect it in the morning and see what happens. Same as the 1st suggestion.

3rd thing...remove kill switch and see what happens. If all of the wires truly go to the fuse box, then you can cut them all and you won't have a problem. Just in case, leave yourself a few inches of wire if you have to go back and splice it in. You shouldn't though.

4th thing...I'mnot a religious person, but pray, because you're chasing a gremlin.

well the battery is good. and yeah I'll take your advice. (thamn grimlins). I'm going to unplug the alternator tonight. and check all the fuses with a circuit tester thing. hopefuklly all goes well and I find the problem. wish me luck.

is that supposed to be like a joint word like them damn gremlins, or what??

ohhh ok I THINK i found the short. all the fuses seem to go on when I put in the circuit tester. but when I go to the Battery fusible link spot and test it the short seems to be there in teh box somewhere. so how do I get that fixed? the cable seems to be fine but the box ispretty melted by where the fuse blew. so what do yo guy's recomend me to do??? because with out that fusible link nothing lites.

OK, if you had indicated that there was melted plastic and the smell of something burnt, that would have proven somewhat interesting... :)

Can you take a couple of digital photographs and post them?

ok here are the pictures guy's :D as U can see the wire got so hot it almost melted through the cover, and it melted the sorroundings of the connection pretty bad. it's the fusiblebox by the battery. oh and the other picture of teh big box it'swhere the kill switch is wired. any sugestions???

:dancing: HAPPY NEW YEAR YO!! :dancing:

You're best bet would be to replace the fuse box by the battery. You could grab one from a junkyard. Oh, get rid of the kill switch. That looks like crap.

the kill switch. will do. gotta find the correct wiring diagram or find a how to. if I don;t flip the switch teh car dose notstart . and when I i turn off the key and don;t flip the switch back the car does not go off. as far as for the box... sauter all the cables? or how to do it? :confused:

HEY youguy's I saw this TT Z on ebay u think I should get it??? I got a clien that will gime 5000$ for my shitty Z as is. is it worth it getting that black 1??? comon now help me out this si somethign important. :D :bling:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...514951674&rd=1

nice looking tt, but the reserve has not been met yet so the price could be (and probably will be) a lot higher.

Two comments:

1. Its a California car, so the cars tend to be in better shape over all because of the lower humidity, and milder temps. Mine was excellent - garaged in San Diego for 7 years. (Now if I could just get rid of the studder...)

2. I have to admit that replacing the car b/c of a wiring problem does seem a bit extreme, but that is just my opinion. :p Good luck!

well. I hope it's not that much more expensive. and thanx as for the electrical it's gotta be fixed eitherway. so yah...