sounds like to me ... maybe when u hooked up your drive shaft that were it bolts onto the rear diff.. u didnt set the diff to the right wheel spin does that make any sence ? maybe it doesnt make a difference ?

oh man what a differnce with new bushings my baby rides so smooth its incredible!:D the little extra noise is nothing makes u feel more tough in the car rides tight but that clunk isnot gone nor the vibration at high speeds. but the car at city streets rides nice not mushy bounce sway feeling in the rear end i dont think ill ever take those solid bushings out! and i might even go to solid diff bushings when my ES wear out, i think it wont bew to harsh ,eventualy get all bushings that are solid the bearing bushing wat ever you call them, i forgot lol but im broke for right now for a long time every havbe good holiday for who ever reads this

Ray

so i installed solid subfram bushings new ES diff bushings and put a good used diff in i still have the rear end vibration at 75mph and up it progresivly gets worse, the new diff and bushings fixed alot of play in drive tran witch im happy about i was hoping the diff would fix thevibration, but the old diff was deffently shot!, but i still have a clunk noise not as bad now with the new diff and new diff bushings but there is some play some where and something causing a vibration im pissed off that i cant find it , i am happy tho that i got alot of the jerking from the rear end out and some clunk and play out but i dont wnat another shaft to break when im crusin so now we can elimnate the bushings and drive shaft and diff whats left over to check for something like this?

Take your local mechanic for a ride. Punch it up to 75+ and say "THERE!!! You feel that? Fix it!".

so today i had a buddy of mine check my car out i beged him to do it for me so

we started the car spun tires on the lift to see ands he said the axle bearings so

im going to change them, but i still have clunk noise coming from the diff its not

the bushings they are brand new the clunk is coming from the inside of the diff

any one have any related problems please give comments thanks

maybe pinion bearing?

looks to me like you're basically waiting for someone to give you permission to go and buy a new differential. Well, i give you permission, now go and buy it already. You've known for some time now that it's been your diff that's been causing the problem. So quit wasting time and get it already.

well mister riz if you kindly read the thread you will see that i said i bought a new diff and i still have the clunk so explain???

Soemtimes its the simple crap we overlook...have you checked your tranny fluid levels?

that was the first thought i had so i did tranny flush refilled will redline and the same for the diff, im going to change the wheel bearings and hope my vibration is gone, witch i feel is 75% chance that its going to be gone ,then left with the clunk noise ,i no there is saposed to be a little little bit of play in the diff maybe a slight clunk that isnt loud at all from it but mine is loud its like when im going down the street i let go of the gas, i then push clutch in and it clunks alot like the tires going one way and trans is going the other there both spining the same direction, but one is spining faster then other it clunk clunk clunk when i do that the shifter moves its wierd i have had 3 machanics look at it im clueless

So then, maybe another shot in the dark on the clunking and possibly vibration...... have you checked your brakes recently? Maybe a frozen up caliper or parking brake assembly.

You've focused alot on the d/s and diff. Have you checked the halfshafts? they have u-joints and a cv joint that can go bad or be damaged. Have you checked for bent control arms yet?

ok..i read through the postings. Have you checked the suspension mounts and bolts. I use to have a thumping sound coming from my Zs rear end. Come to find out the alignment guy didnt tighten down a couple of bolts on my left rear and the entire suspension was moving. It was binding up when i would take off at redlights and when i would brake. I would here a Pop..pop...pop...and that was it when i started off. Then i would here one faint click as i applied the breaks.

As for the vibration...i read that you added the rear tranny mount. Did you install the unrethane one?

I just installed one on my car. And it is awsome for drag launching. But the normal vibration of the engine is almost annoying. YOu can feel everything now. I have yet to take it on the highway yet.

no i have a new stock mount, but was thinking about the urathane mount to get rid of some play in drive tran i already have noltec motor mounts it probly would work good with urathane tranny mount, im installing new wheel bearings tomarrow and new control arms and hopfully ill get my SPL sperical bearings for my suspension tomarrow they have bin on back order for a wila now, im hoping the vibration goes away, then back to the drawing board for the clunk noise:eek:

well i got new arms coming tomarrow and about 4 or 5 months ago i put sloted rotors on and yellow stuff or watever for pads i forgot wat colors ones i got from EBC , i havent checked the half shafts but the boots are in perfect condition no cracks or drie rot and i dont see any great or nothing but maybe when i do wheel bearings ill take a look, doesnt the half shafts have those bearings or watever not u joints it looks differnt from a u joint in the manual ,ill see what happens tomarrow after i change the bearings, hey is there anything that any one recomends to change wila im doing the wheel bearings? is there anything else that should bew changed when i change the wheel bearings? besides brakes and padsa rotors, maybe ill rebuild my calipers why im at it and put SS lines in

ok im clueless!:confused: i put new diff in, new bushings, new wheel bearings, new trans, new driveshaft, new trans mount, new tires, and four wheel alienment i have no other thing that i can think of, i changed the brakes new pads checked the rotors for warpage none at all, checked for frozen calipers,check control arms an put new ones in, i have no idea any more even mechanic cant figure it out this is the most agravating thing ever if any one has got any sugjections let me no

i know it is kinda stupid..but what about sway bars? I know they control the latteral roll of the car. But could they exaggerate some inbalance in the car if one was bent? Just a thought...

possibly i got stillin sway bars and spl links so i doudt its them but i did get rid of

some vibration rotating my driveshaft 90 degrees on one end and leaving the

otehr end in id rotate the one end untill 360 then id take the otehr end out rotate

it 90 and test drive and rotate the otehr end 90 degree's at a time and test drive

then nother 90 until 360 was up then rotate the other end i did that a bunch

of times and it seemed to work i lost some of the vibration so im thinking i

might go get the balance checked on the Z1 shaft even tho they say its

balanced ill check again it seems to be out of phase or balence so im guna

check that out hey if any one is under there car any time soon the left half

shaft if looking from behind where it connects to the diff push on it up and

down see if therews any pay or lot of play and if it makes any noise, i changed

my diff but it seems to have play on that side so i want to compare it to any

one that checks that out if they undewr there car, that be awsum if some one

would do that thanks

Sounds like it's time to go back and re-visit the tire question again. Just because they are "new" and have "been balanced" means squat. After 17 years of owning/operating a tire and service center I can tell you that with certainty. If it feels like it's in the driveline or the rear of the car, then you need to have the rear tires and wheels checked out. There are also different way's to balance a tire. The two basic are Static and Dynamic however, there are other types as well. A wheel that say's it's balanced to "0.0" in Static mode may still call for 3.5 to 5.5 ounces in dynamic mode. If they cheat and use static only in an effort to try and hide the wheel weights from view, you can have a serious out of balance scenario that only appears on the computerized balancer display in the right mode. Go to a GOOD tire shop and have them checked. Rod.

WELL WHERE I GOT MY TIRES IS A GOOD FRIEND he has digital balencer and i trust him kuz hes a good family friend

There is nothing wrong with trusting HIM..but do you trust his equipment. Tire balencers are very delicate tools..like a torque wrench. If they are not calibrated properly..then NOTHING will be be correct. It might not hurt to get a sceond opinion just in case. BUt is is your decision and your car...

Well, You obviously don't get it then, and that's the second time you have gotten shitty with me so... Good luck. Like I said, I have owned and operated the highest volume tire and service center in San Diego County for 17 years. I know a little bit about what I'm talking about. I don't care who balanced them, they could still be wildly off. You have replaced how many thousands of dollars worth of parts and still have the same problem? Your deal dude, not mine. I was just trying to help by offering some professional advice. Obviously though, you're the smartest guy on the planet and know everything (which I'm sure is why you are constantly posting new threads asking for help in figuring out a car problem). Knock yourself out big guy. I'm sure you'll figure it out eventually. I just wonder how much money and time you're going to waste in the process.... Rod.

you no man the problem is u, i didnt say anything i no ur helping you need to chill out alls i said is he's bin doing it for years and i watched him do it 3 times thats all you taking wat i said to you the wrong way i have had the same problems with 4 differnt tires so im asuming it aint the tiresa kuz iv had them balnence 3 times on all the tires i put on it and it still does that

i just went there and talked to him again and check the balnence again on his 30000 dollor watever amount machine that he said is the best you can get because thats the most important thing when puting new tires on he has had his shop for 30 years and hooks me up wqith free tires when i need them i think doing that so many times checking them at 3 differnt places and eeverything thing be good dont ya think its good?

you know...something just came to me...Do you have aftermarket wheels? Or possibly wheel spacers? I know wheel spacers can sometimes have defects and not be truely flat and may throw the wheel off slightly. On a balencer you woulnt notice it and neither would you at an alignement shop. The reason I brought up the aftermarket wheels is bc i have 18" Enkei's. They came with hubcentric rings. The rim may not be seating properly perhaps.

Which is why they should A: be BOLTING each wheel to the balancer with a finger adapter, and B: make sure you have "Lug Centric" Lug nuts to make sure that the wheels center on the hub EXACTLY like it does on the balancer... Just having the wrong lug nuts and or a missing or ineffective hub centric ring can cause ALL OF YOUR ISSUES. Does your buddies $3,000.00 machine happen to have a finger adapter? 1 out of about 100 high end tire shops has a good selection of finger adapters and even fewer know how to use them... Just because it zero's out on a machine, doesn't mean it will zero out on the car. THIS IS WHY I ASK. Rod.