ZBUM's Nissan Z31 300ZX Aftermarket Stereo Installation Guide

Color Codes:

• B = black
• G = green
• L = blue
• LG = light green
• R = red
• W = white
• Y = yellow

For below:

• Abbrieviation = Color of wire = Long name
• The color after the slash (/) is the stripe color. i.e. R/G = red wire with green stripe.
• SF, GL, and SS models should all be the same.

All models:

• ILL = R/G = Illumination
• IGN = Y/G = Ignition (12V when key is in ACC or ON position)
• 12V = L/R = Always 12V
• ANT = G/B = Signal to antenna
• RF+ = R/W = Right Front Speaker Positive
• RF- = R = Right Front Speaker Negative
• LF+ = L/W = Left Front Speaker Positive
• LF- = L = Left Front Speaker Negative
• GND = _ = Ground = any metal contact point on the frame.

SF, GL, SS (no external amp)

• RR+ = R/B = Right Rear Speaker Positive
• RR- = R = Right Rear Speaker Negative
• LR+ = L/B = Left Rear Speaker Positive
• LR- = L = Left Rear Speaker Negative

GLL (external amp under passeger seat)

• RR+ = R/G = Right Rear Speaker Positive
• RR- = R/Y = Right Rear Speaker Negative
• LR+ = LG/W = Left Rear Speaker Positive
• LR- = LG/B = Left Rear Speaker Negative

Radio Hole (all years)
The stock Z31 radio is an odd size. It's about 1.5 DIN tall, but slightly wider and not rectangular. It is very simple to install a normal DIN size unit with no modification to the dash. The radio plate to fill the hole left by the original stereo can easily be found at most stereo shops. The ones I've bought are made by METRA and is part number 99-7411. It says the application is for "Nissan 300ZX 84-87", but it works for all Z31s (84-89).

GLL Models (all years)
All GLLs in 84 (this includes the AEs) had the front speaker amplifier built into the head unit. The amplifier under the passenger seat was for the rear speakers only. For AEs, the amp under the driver's seat was for the body sonic speakers. From 85 and on, the amp in the GLLs was used for all speakers. ALL GLL models have seperate leads for each corner (dash tweeters, if applicable, are wired in parallel with the door speakers). This means you don't need to rewire anything. Simply run the speaker leads from the stereo (or amplifier) to under the passenger seat and connect to the existing speaker leads. You may remove the amplifier and the DIN cable that comes from the stereo.

Common Ground (SF, GL, SS models)
No new stereo (at least, none of the decent ones) can handle common ground applications. This means you need to run new wires for a pair of speakers (either front or rear). When you run new wires, if you've already cut the old plugs off, tape off the wires. You do not need to worry about the extra wire that appears to go no where. From the point of view of the stereo, it doesn't matter if you rewire the front or the rear.

Voice Warning (aka Bitching Betty) (84-86 GL and GLL models only):
The voice warning only came in the 84-86 GL and GLL models. SF models and 87-89 Z31s did not have the voice warning system. It works by stopping the signals going to the front left speaker(s) and replacing it with a signal of its own. Even without a stereo in the car, the voice warning would still work if the speaker is still there and hooked up to the stock wiring.If you want to keep the voice warning, you rewire the rear speakers and use the stock front wires.The voice warning unit is located above and behind the ECU in the passenger kick panel. It's hidden by a piece of insulation. It is possible to totally rewire the stereo system and use totally new speaker wire and still retain the voice warning. There are many ways to do it. One way is to run the wires for the front left speaker to the voice warning unit speaker lead inputs. Then run the speaker lead outputs to the front left speaker. Another option is to add a dedicated speaker (any basic full range speaker will work) and simply run the outputs to this speaker.

Antenna Half Mast Operation (84-86 models only):
The 84-86 also had an antenna switch for full height/half mast operation. If you wish to retain this feature, simply transplant the switch to the new stereo plate and plug it in. If your switch is broken, any single pole switch will work fine. If you don't care about it, you should connect the two wires that were plugged into the antenna switch. If they are not connected, your antenna will never go up more than half mast. Half mast operation has significant degredation of reception performance.

Steering Wheel Controls: (Most GLL models)
The steering wheel controls are operated off an LED built into the steering wheel and the steering column. The LED sending unit is a box in the steering wheel. The LED receiver unit is a box attached to the steering column. This box also consists of a transmitter box to send a signal to the receiver located under the rear compartment (2 seater) or rear seats (4 seater). Removal of the receiver box will remove your cruise control functionality. You may, however, remove the DIN cable that goes from this box to the stereo. There is a device that is sold for approximately $80 to $100 that will allow you to retain the steering wheel controls if your new stereo accepts IR remote signals. I do not have any experience with it, so I cannot give any more information than the fact that it exists.

Diversity Tuning: (Most GLL Models)
Most of the GLLs also had what's called diversity tuning. This means the rear window had an antenna mounted in it as well as the stock power antenna in the back corner. If the stereo you buy doesn't have diversity tuning (most do not), and you find you are not getting good reception, buy a "Y" adaptor. It will have two connectors to plug the antenna wires into as well as a connector to plug into your stereo.