Timing Belt Install
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Joined: Jun 2004
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Timing Belt Install
whats up, i have an 84 N/A and its time for a new timing belt and tensioner. i was wondering if my motor is up on TDC, will my cam sprokets turn when i remove the belt. any tips or tricks would be a great help. i'm tryin to make this as easy as possible, i really dont want to have to reset all of the timing if my cams turn. thanks.
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Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 35
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Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 161
From: Frisco, TX
yes they will when your trying to remove the stubborn crank shaft bolt ... I had really trouble the 1st time I did a timing belt change ... I'll save you some trouble ...
1. go buy a sturdy piece of raw flat steel bar from home depot or lowes about 3 feet long
2. take on of those small perimeter bolts from the crank pulley along with you to home depot or lowes and buy 3 or 4 longer stronger versions like a 1 1/2 - 2 inchs
3. line up bar on your crank pulley and mark 2 perimeter holes that line up on the bottom of the pulley leaving room for you to put a socket and big *** break bar in the center
4. drill out the holes, screw through the bar into the crank pulley, having bar goto the right (standing, facing the front of car) so its in front of driver side front tire
5. this will brace the crank pulley and other pulleys from moving too much, they will move but not to much.
6. one problem I had was thinking TDC had to be perfectly aligned with all 3 marks, it's not true ... close is good ... what I did was line up 2 marks and if the 3rd mark is off by a 1 or 2 teeth it's fine
7. you can rotate the crankshaft and pullies as much as you want but once you remove the timing belt, be careful
8. rotate the crank shaft a few times and you'll feel when you get to TDC at the top of a hill and then go a little further and it's like it falls off a cliff
9. I had a problem once where I took the belt off and 1 cam rotated too much and I was shitting bricks ... but all I had to do is rotate it back very carefully to the mark
sorry if that was long and confusing
1. go buy a sturdy piece of raw flat steel bar from home depot or lowes about 3 feet long
2. take on of those small perimeter bolts from the crank pulley along with you to home depot or lowes and buy 3 or 4 longer stronger versions like a 1 1/2 - 2 inchs
3. line up bar on your crank pulley and mark 2 perimeter holes that line up on the bottom of the pulley leaving room for you to put a socket and big *** break bar in the center
4. drill out the holes, screw through the bar into the crank pulley, having bar goto the right (standing, facing the front of car) so its in front of driver side front tire
5. this will brace the crank pulley and other pulleys from moving too much, they will move but not to much.
6. one problem I had was thinking TDC had to be perfectly aligned with all 3 marks, it's not true ... close is good ... what I did was line up 2 marks and if the 3rd mark is off by a 1 or 2 teeth it's fine
7. you can rotate the crankshaft and pullies as much as you want but once you remove the timing belt, be careful
8. rotate the crank shaft a few times and you'll feel when you get to TDC at the top of a hill and then go a little further and it's like it falls off a cliff
9. I had a problem once where I took the belt off and 1 cam rotated too much and I was shitting bricks ... but all I had to do is rotate it back very carefully to the mark
sorry if that was long and confusing
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