Z31 shop work in Tulsa, OK? Anyone?
#1
Z31 shop work in Tulsa, OK? Anyone?
Well i either have a vacuum leak under my dash or my solenoid bank. I blow defrost only. Also my heater core seems to be cloged as i get no heat. (digi climate.) This car is my daily driver so unfortunatly i can't spend the time to take the dash out over the weekend and replace lines due too full time classes and full time job. ATM i have the money to pay to do it and be without my car for a day i just don't know where the best place for dash work is. I went to a local dealership to get a quote on labor alone (not including parts) and they told me 9 hours!! Yeah, professionals, right? I laughed and walked out.
Anyways any tulsans on this board know of any good z31 shops around?
Anyways any tulsans on this board know of any good z31 shops around?
#2
check under the hood. the vac lines go to the vac tank located on the front upper crossmember on passenger side. should be four. large one goes to cruise control. one goes to the manifold (vac source) one goes to the heater valve on the fire wall. the last one goes into the cabin. If you take out the trim panel under the dash you might (if lucky) find a vac line tee taped to the heater core box. this is the line that goes to either side of the cabin and comes from the vac tank. suck or blow on it from the engine side to see if it is tight. they usually rot out where they connect to things. the lines in the cabin are usually good as they don't see the high temp abuse of the ones in the engine compartment. Download fsm from xenon and read up on it. there is a diagram. Lots cheaper to do that first before going to a shop. get about 25 feet of vac hose and replace those three. cruise usually good but check it thoroughly also.
#3
Well i'll have to do that now. My only hope is that its under the hood because i'm now not going to be able to pay someone to do it as i now have compression issues to attend to. That's another story. So i started comparing the vacuum lining in each of my z31's (n/a and turbo) and it seems like alot of my vacuum lines have been bypassed in the turbo, ill include pics of both to show you what im working with. I noticed that i'm missing my cruise control unit, so ill grab that off the n/a unit as well. And help on deciphering my under the hood lines is appreciated. Also what is this vacuum unit in the front passenger side? My turbo model doesn't have this....
#4
you have a pic of the vac tank. just forward of the expansion tank. in the turbo pics the vac line that is supposed to come off the plenum and go to the vac tank has a cap on it. your heater valve doesn't look right. the heater valve on the n/a looks right. the manifold takeoff for vacuum looks right. I'd send you some pics but this stupid program won't let me. even following the directions in the faq it still tries to maintain I already posted that so won't let me do another. download the fsm from xenon if you don't have it. they have a diagram in there. the vacuum pump is under the car if you lay on the ground with your head by the passenger tire you should see it (turbo car only). if they fubared the vacuum lines your climate control will never work right. Vacuum got to be there or everything defaults to open
#5
Crud, i feared as much. Ill probably hqve the lines re run before too long.i don't think the previous owner broke in the engine after a top end rebuild. I have a rebuild inevitably around the corner :/ I'm leaking oil whiich is whats causing me to smoke. Think i have a bad valve.
Last edited by blackout08; 10-04-2012 at 11:09 PM.
#6
Quick question, Are the auto climate models suppose to have a vacuum canister in the engine bay? I ask because my non turbo manual climate does, and upon inspect my vacuum lines i noticed.... I DIDNT HAVE ANY. The line going through the firewall has been clipped completly, the unit that screws into the plenium that the vacuum line go into had been snipped off then capped. Screwy thing is i still get air through my vents?! From where? But back to my point, should i have a vacuum tank? If so im going to pull off of my old car. Also i noticed on the manual climate system that it had a vacuum unit on the ??watercock?? That is not on my auto climate.
Getting vacuum line today any swapping on parts from N/A. I'm going to see if i can figure it out on my own but input would be nice
Getting vacuum line today any swapping on parts from N/A. I'm going to see if i can figure it out on my own but input would be nice
Last edited by blackout08; 10-18-2012 at 01:15 PM.
#7
So, new update. I started look around for my vacuum pump and sure enough i find that it is not even there. To put more gravy on top, the vacuum line to it was crudely tied up with a zip-tie.... So all my vacuum parts have been removed from my car, WTF?!?! Taking all this into consideration, is there anything else anyone would recommend me check in the vacuum system that I've missed?
#8
when you aren't on boost (which in normal driving isn't that often) your climate control will work fine without the vac pump. when you punch it and go on boost you will get a blast of hot air then it will return to normal operation. you kinda do need the vacuum tank. pretty much what you need is hoses, vac tank and vac pump. if you got the vac tank then it ought to work ok when not in boost.
#9
Well after coming to terms with the previous owners stupidity, and my befuddlement for that matter, I ordered all missing vacuum parts for an awesome z31 retailist online (z31partsforyou). Vacuum tank, pump, and a newish watercock. Now I have heat... still through the defrost though -.- But on the bright side, i can now hear my a/c compressor switch on, still no a/c, as it needs to be charged.... I think next i'll run an air vent diagnostics and see if my air gates are working, now that i know it isn't "under the hood" problems.
#10
Bumping this thread so my phone stops exploding
Matt recently sent me a text saying his motor was knocking, top end was rebuilt, but it sounds like the bottom end is finally giving way.
We're wondering what kind of price range we're looking at for a bottom end rebuild?
From what I can remember doing on my Z, just from my memory.. (nothing about the top end)
'Refurbished' Rods
New Pistons (Oversize)
Crank grind (Undersize)
Undersize Main and Rod Bearings
ARP Main Bolts
ARP Rod Bolts
That's just me, all the big things I did, at the machine shop, I spent around
Cylinder Oversize $90
Install Rods to Pistons $(around)40
Vat block $45..?
Crank Grind was about $120..?
Like I said Matt, call Lucitos Machine Shop
Matt recently sent me a text saying his motor was knocking, top end was rebuilt, but it sounds like the bottom end is finally giving way.
We're wondering what kind of price range we're looking at for a bottom end rebuild?
From what I can remember doing on my Z, just from my memory.. (nothing about the top end)
'Refurbished' Rods
New Pistons (Oversize)
Crank grind (Undersize)
Undersize Main and Rod Bearings
ARP Main Bolts
ARP Rod Bolts
That's just me, all the big things I did, at the machine shop, I spent around
Cylinder Oversize $90
Install Rods to Pistons $(around)40
Vat block $45..?
Crank Grind was about $120..?
Like I said Matt, call Lucitos Machine Shop
#11
Yeah, Lucitos prices were very reasonable when i went and talked to them. They like their blocks fully disassebled :/ lol
Thanks for the bumb XD
Thanks for the bumb XD
Bumping this thread so my phone stops exploding
Matt recently sent me a text saying his motor was knocking, top end was rebuilt, but it sounds like the bottom end is finally giving way.
We're wondering what kind of price range we're looking at for a bottom end rebuild?
From what I can remember doing on my Z, just from my memory.. (nothing about the top end)
'Refurbished' Rods
New Pistons (Oversize)
Crank grind (Undersize)
Undersize Main and Rod Bearings
ARP Main Bolts
ARP Rod Bolts
That's just me, all the big things I did, at the machine shop, I spent around
Cylinder Oversize $90
Install Rods to Pistons $(around)40
Vat block $45..?
Crank Grind was about $120..?
Like I said Matt, call Lucitos Machine Shop
Matt recently sent me a text saying his motor was knocking, top end was rebuilt, but it sounds like the bottom end is finally giving way.
We're wondering what kind of price range we're looking at for a bottom end rebuild?
From what I can remember doing on my Z, just from my memory.. (nothing about the top end)
'Refurbished' Rods
New Pistons (Oversize)
Crank grind (Undersize)
Undersize Main and Rod Bearings
ARP Main Bolts
ARP Rod Bolts
That's just me, all the big things I did, at the machine shop, I spent around
Cylinder Oversize $90
Install Rods to Pistons $(around)40
Vat block $45..?
Crank Grind was about $120..?
Like I said Matt, call Lucitos Machine Shop
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