z31 auto to manual brake question
 

Hey everyone, new guy here!

So, I'm planning to do an auto to manual swap from my '84 2 seater to my '84 2+2 seater (meaning I'll have to find a shop to extend the driveshaft, cheaper than new). I have everything I need for the swap because of the donor car and the only thing I'm wondering is, why do I need to swap the brake pedal over?

In the Hayne's manual for the car, the pedal looks exactly the same for both auto and manual transmissions except the free height which is 2mm off. I'm new to this kind of stuff so maybe I'm just missing something. Does it have to do with sensors/wiring?

I really don't want to contort myself to get the break pedal out of each if it's not necessary so I figured I might as well find out if it's needed to be swapped or not before I do!

Welcome to ZDriver! :006:

Be sure to get hold of your Factory Service Manual (FSM) - it's a free DL at XenonZ31 Reference - plus other good docs. You can work with your FSM and the Haynes version. Loads of great inspection and diagnostic procedures, easy to follow.

Lots of guys here have done that transm swap themselves and will have input for you.

Thanks and welcome.

I doubt the brake pedals are the same. they aren't on an s130 and nissan generally does the same type thing as they go along. However I think (again because this is what nissan does on the s130) there is a sheet metal cage that holds pedals and switches as a unit. with the pulling of a 4 or 6 bolts that entire assembly will pull out. need to disconnnect brake rod to the master and the clutch rod to that master.

The difference between the automatic and manual brake is the pedals, or more specifically, the pedal width. The auto version is about 5" wide and will intrude into the space needed by a clutch pedal. The manual pedal is only 2-1/2" wide. The swing arms look identical for auto or manual, but the pedal pad is welded to the swing arm.

Cut the pedal down with a sawsall

Simply swapping the swing arms is less messy and it's only a single bolt and slip pin.

Awesome , thanks everyone! I kind of figured that it had to do something with it being in the way of the clutch pedal but just wanted to make sure before I swapped it.

I guess I'll get on it and swap those pedals. I'm really excited to drive the manual trans again!

I have done a auto to manual swap. Don't let the pedals discourage you at all. The swap is very easy all that's hard is messing with that clutch pedal and lining it up. I didn't want to tap into any wiring for the nuetral safety switch. So I just ran a momentary push button directly to the starter. Its very easy. Just a suggestion

I got the brake pedal in in probably less than 10 minutes..I'm just having trouble with the clutch pedal. After it's through the firewall and the master cylinder is bolted on (loosely so I could line it up), the rear end of the pedal assembly is way off from where it's supposed to bolt into..the holes don't match up at all! For one, the pedal assembly has to move forward more to match the holes up although it can't go forward anymore and it the right screw hole on the pedal bracket is almost lined up with left screw hole on the bracket to screw it into, as in it's a whole screwhole off. How would you go about dealing with this? I'll post images sometime tomorrow if I get a chance to work on it.