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-   -   Preferred oil (https://www.zdriver.com/forums/300zx-z31-forums-8/preferred-oil-39416/)

luvatenor 03-26-2014 03:27 PM

Preferred oil
 
I just acquired a 1984 300zx with 60,000 miles. I would like to perform the best maintenance I can. What is the preferred oil and viscosity for this car with this mileage -I read that for the 350 and 370 models Pennzoil Platinum was rated tops. Any thoughts?-Thanks

zxguy1986 03-26-2014 04:30 PM

Welcome and congrats! :039: Sounds like an amazing find and you can post some pics for us all soon. :107:

You will get lots of opinions on your oil Q. With only 60K, that motor is just breaking-in still, IMHO. If it has been treated well, it can go forever.

Why not check out XenonZ31 Reference and download your factory service manual (FSM) and your owner's manual (OM). Loads of other docs there too. For a quick check, the back pages of the OM will list the Datsun/Nissan recommended motor oils (pre-synthetic, of course)... You should probably start your search there. :115:

rogerz 03-30-2014 10:14 AM

I use Mobil One (had an engineer buddy whose job was testing and designing lubrication for Mobil) in the engine. I use Redline MTF in my tranny smooths things out nicely if it is a little sticky. Diffy synthetic of the correct visosity. I have used Mobil One in every vehicle owned since 85.

PredatorZ 03-30-2014 11:54 AM

Service History
 
If you are unsure of the cars service history, have the timing belt and water pump changed, also change the chts at the same time, since its a pain to get to and can go bad. there are kits from companies like Courtesy Nissan that has everything you will need for your service. The Z31 engine is an interferance motor, which means if the belt fails pistons and valves will colide with serious results.

Post some pics of your car when you can, High res if possible

rogerz 03-30-2014 05:42 PM

if you are really interested in the best maintenance lube types are least thing you should worry about. Predator is right. CHANGE THE TIMING BELT. here are some other things:

Get your battery load tested. Be sure you have clean, tight corrosion free terminals on both ends of your battery cables. Be sure the ground (negative) cable goes to a bolt into the frame before going to the starter. grounding through the starter is not a reliable connection. Z's don't like low voltage. causes the electronics to act funny. it is possible to have enough amps to crank but not enough voltage to run the electronics. If you have one size fit all cheapo clamp on terminals they are a problem waiting to happen.

Clean the connectors for the maf or afm, ecu and tps. Deoxit by CAIG is probably the best connector cleaner on the market. spray with CorrosionX after cleaning and before putting together this will help prevent any further corrosion.

Replace outer tie rod ends, and ball joints. replace the bushings with poly (don't forget to lube them as directed unless you like squeaky things). New shocks. Get new boots for power steering. all those things will make you think you are driving a different car. doing them piece meal is a waste you won't see a great improvement until you do the complete job. You need to get the car realigned after messing with the front. Have your tires in good shape and rebalance. Rear bushings nice too but more work and you won't notice as great an improvement. Rear shocks also because if the fronts are gone so are the rears. if car squats when you jump on the gas the rears are gone. If you have the electro adjustable shocks they are DEFINITELY GONE.

If you are doing a turbo car shocks (electro adjust I think may be only on the turbos) then you need the adapter plates to fit modern shocks to the car. Easiest way is find an n/a at the junkyard and take the mounting plates. They may be available thru NAPA (listed) but I had the n/a plates.


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