ExcisionZ

TCFalconBird

Welcome to the site. Make sure to check for rust in the usual places like under the toolkit in the back, in the spare tire compartment, and the floor pans if it's a t-top car. If all looks good go for it.

ExcisionZ

zxguy1986

Welcome to Zdriver! I would say there is little or nothing weak or sub-standard in the original electrical system components in the Z31s. Nissan took care to use the highest quality components throughout the Z31. My original '86 ran for me for 30 years without an electrical problem originating in a faulty part. What current owners discover is that the original system has been "messed with" by previous owners or "mechanics" who cannot read the electrical diagrams in the manual but just dive into the electrical system for "repairs."

A Z31 is a fairly complex machine, very well designed and assembled in Japan where they traditionally learn from the past and constantly, cautiously improve their designs. Toyota and Honda do and have done the same. True excellence matters over there.<br /><br />

If you have 'electrical' issues when you get your Z, you can start by cleaning your harness connectors. Copper corrodes naturally. Get a first quality electrical cleaner for that and use it right. Connector 'grease' is not recommended. Look up "rogerz" posts on this site. He often repeats a good mantra for checking your electrical system top to bottom. Alternator output, battery, etc.

Your Z definitely requires full function electricals throughout, very sensitive to that. All sorts of weird stuff happens if your system is deficient in any way. Harness "replacement" is pretty rare and usually overkill. Finding a used harness in better condition than yours isn't easy.<br /><br />

Are those bird droppings on the motor in the photo? And a bird's nest? Are there eggs in it? If they are passenger pigeon eggs, do not disturb but call the Audubon Society right away. Too cool! You will make some real history with that.<br /><br />Great luck with your Z. Magnificent machine if you take the time and effort she will need to get her back to 100%. It can be done!. <a href="http://www.car-part.com/">Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market</a> is a great resource. Cheers!

JSM

zxguy1986

Hey, I found a classic rogerz post. He's a crabby guy but this frequent post has good stuff. Avoid headaches by getting your electrical system up to 100%. Your Z31 requires that!

"Get your battery load tested. Be sure you have clean, tight corrosion free terminals on both ends of your battery cables. Be sure the ground (negative) cable goes to a bolt into the frame before going to the starter. grounding through the starter is not a reliable connection. Z's don't like low voltage. causes the electronics to act funny. it is possible to have enough amps to crank but not enough voltage to run the electronics. If you have one size fit all cheapo clamp on terminals they are a problem waiting to happen. Usually on a rainy night around Oh Dark Thirty.

Clean the connectors for the maf or afm, ecu and tps. Deoxit by CAIG is probably the best connector cleaner on the market. spray with CorrosionX after cleaning and before putting together this will help prevent any further corrosion. DON'T USE DIELECTRIC GREASE."

Go for it, dude.

Replace outer tie rod ends, and ball joints. replace the bushings with poly (don't forget to lube them as directed unless you like squeaky things). New shocks. Get new boots for power steering. all those things will make you think you are driving a different car. doing them piece meal is a waste you won't see a great improvement until you do the complete job. You need to get the car realigned after messing with the front. Have your tires in good shape and rebalance. Rear bushings nice too but more work and you won't notice as great an improvement. Rear shocks also because if the fronts are gone so are the rears. if car squats when you jump on the gas the rears are gone. If you have the electro adjustable shocks they are DEFINITELY GONE.

If you are doing a turbo car shocks (electro adjust I think may be only on the turbos) then you need the adapter plates to fit modern shocks to the car in the rear. Easiest way is find an n/a at the junkyard and take the mounting plates. They may be available thru NAPA (listed) but I had the n/a plates.

download the fsm xenon.

Cobalt60

Looks like a rats nest. They can be hugely destructive.

Is the air filter missing? Looks like the intake is open.

Is the AC compressor missing?

I'm guessing that's going to be a good sized effort to get running again. I think I would walk away.