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-   -   My Z will not start (https://www.zdriver.com/forums/300zx-z31-forums-8/my-z-will-not-start-30177/)

zdriverd4 Feb 18, 2010 01:57 PM

My Z will not start
 
I appreciate your help ladies and/or gents.

I have a 1988 Z na that will not start. The ECU is not showing any codes. When I turn the ignition key, the engine turns and tries to start but dies instantly when I release.

I tested for spark with a spark tester. I replaced the FPR recently. I tried a different power transistor, and ECU. The plugs, wires, dist cap, and rotor are almost new. Reseated the connectors. These had no effect.

One interesting discovery, when I pull the coil wire off, bump the starter for a couple of turns, replug the coil wire, the engine will run smoothly for 10 - 20 seconds, then cut off.

Any ideas, other than goto a mechanic and give all my money for a fix?

jrealmuto1 Feb 18, 2010 02:30 PM

maybe it needs a coil ?? hmmmmm.........idk either

TeamRonin Feb 18, 2010 10:42 PM

:023:

Originally Posted by zdriverd4 (Post 275595)
The ECU is not showing any codes. When I turn the ignition key, the engine turns and tries to start but dies instantly when I release.

I tested for spark with a spark tester. I replaced the FPR recently. I tried a different power transistor, and ECU. The plugs, wires, dist cap, and rotor are almost new. Reseated the connectors. These had no effect.

One interesting discovery, when I pull the coil wire off, bump the starter for a couple of turns, replug the coil wire, the engine will run smoothly for 10 - 20 seconds, then cut off.

Any ideas, other than goto a mechanic and give all my money for a fix?

My first point was going to be the Fuel Pressure Regulator but I see ya already took care of that. What i would do is check to see how much fuel pressure you are putting out? Replace fuel filter if not already done. Take in your Ignition Control Module to the nearest O'Reilly Auto Store and have your Ignition Control Module tested for free. Check the Idle Air Control, the Throttle Position Sensor, and make sure there is no vaccuum leak all vaccuum lines are sealed and connected. Most engine problems i have encountered consist of having to do with air, fuel, ignition, and electrical. If ya start with one and just eliminate down the list you would eventually reach the problem. I hope this helps ya out it has for me everytime i troubleshoot.:023:

zdriverd4 Feb 19, 2010 10:59 AM

More troubleshooting
 
After more troubleshooting, I found the engine would start if the throttle chamber was disconnected from the MAF. Idles smooooth. Cuts off if I try to rev it up.

I believe the trouble is in the MAF. Is there a way to test the MAF? I have a multitestor. Are the MAF's interchangeable between years for the Na models?

Thanks for the responses.

rogerz Feb 20, 2010 08:34 AM

all mafs the same and there is a test procedure in the fsm. You can do it in place if you understand basic electricity. static test you need to run 12volts to pin as shown in diagram then test the pins indicated. test with air flow can be done by removing the 12v start the car (if it idles) and testing the pins as shown. If that doesn't make sense pull it out and do it the way they show in the fsm. Hair dryer works as an air flow source. be a little creatiave and maybe read the fsm a bit. get one free at xenon.

z31rider Feb 21, 2010 11:18 AM

if it is the MAF i have an extra in my tool box. iv had two go out on me so i keep an extra on hand. i know it works cause iv switched it with the one im using. PM me if that what ya need

zdriverd4 Feb 21, 2010 05:52 PM

Yep, was the MAF
 
Thanks for the help folks. I had a spare MAF for my '87 turbo. Put it on and shazam, it fired right up. :)

jarye Mar 16, 2010 08:40 PM

MAF went out on my 86 turbo z31. It would idle rough but continue to idle as long as I gave it gas. But it would die if I didnt give it gas.

the MAF can do some funny things to a car!


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