While the RB is apart, I'll give the L28 a start
 

Rb20 is on the engine stand getting OEM parts, and I figured, since it has been so long since I have driven my Z, I'd salvage parts from two L28s, one with a broken headbolt in the block, and the other motor is simply being neglected.

Now, parts aside (I have everything I need), one transmission is automatic, and one is a 5speed. Automatic block and head are going in, with the 5speed. Will I need to switch out the flywheels/pressure plates? I'd sure love to hear my girl run under pure Datsun power again, thanks in advance!

Let me know if there are any differences between the two that I need to make sure of.

The only difference between the 5sp tranny fly wheels is the turbo/2+2 was larger than the N/A 2+0. Sounds like you already have the clutch/flywheel setup so you should be good to go.

The blocks are the same although I've heard that the automatics may use an "F" grind cam rather than the "A" grind although the rest of the head will be the same.

Personally I love how the L series engines sounds.... not sure if my neighboors do though :P

It will be a little bit of a process, I finally got my Rx7 back on track, but I miss how my Z sounded, and how it pulled, so, can't really wait.

Need most of my accessories over here at the garage, so this thread will go dead for about a week at the most.

Yea I hear ya. I'm waiting to get my S130 and S30 insured and back on the road. Maybe when I get back in April.... till then I'll start them up every now and then. Two totally different sounds between EFI and Triple 44mm Mikuni's ;) Love 'em both

Yeah I agree, there is nothing like the sound of a good old L28. I love hearing it every time I start it. And I am running with a glass pack, header, and straight pipe. Wicked sound. heh heh:unibrow:

So are you rebuilding for a L28 N/A or Turbo? Anyway good luck man, and keep us posted.:023:

Two L28ETs, only one will actually end up being the victor/running.

Depending on how my transmission is anyway :disgust:

yuu have to pull the flexplate and torque converter from the auto block if they are still on as well as these 3 inch diameter plates. there is one on the flexplate and teh other is on the crank. both pop right off. then bolt the flywheel directly on the crankshaft. don't reuse any of those 3 inch circular plates. you will see what I mean if that stuff is still on the block.

here is my how my turbo 260Z sounded, 3 inch pipe no resonator or cat and a vibrant muffler. 3in in 4in out

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=87B3u0tUJPk

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R5F5_ux8juA

and this is m NA with the msa twice pipes. such a classc race car sound

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eOtCBSKT5j4

those were sex......

Finally got around to getting off my ass. Will post pictures of the L28 nightmare, forewarning, the motor sat for 4 years, you'll live it, I know I will, pics tonight broskis

Doner Car:
http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...4_642071_n.jpg

Pistons (L to R)
3, 2, and 1
http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._6669202_n.jpg

Pistons (L to R)
6, 5, and 4
http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._5012702_n.jpg

http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._6153646_n.jpg
http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...29_24271_n.jpg

Been taking it apart a little at a time, removing crankshaft and pistons to hone the walls, as they desperately need it.

Edit: How to remove rear crankshaft bearing cap?
I got the other 5 out (bitches), the 6th one is larger, looks like it is a bit of the rear of the block too.

What should I use to remove rust from the cylinder walls without damaging them? Can I use a brass/SS dremel fitting?

Edit: Honed cylinders. Fixed.

Finally got the valves out

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._1861809_n.jpg

Aaaaand, after about two hours and two dremel brushes
Still have a bit of the old headgasket on there, but it should be fine. Can't believe this thing actually used to be silver...
http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._7714160_n.jpg