Ok, I recently posted that my car was "surging" at 3500k +. Well, after thinking about the wording, I decided to go with "spuratically losing power at 3500k+". It's kinda like, when I hit 3500 or higher in 2nd and 3rd, it starts "sputtering" a bit, losing power speratically. If I nail it, it does'nt show up (or at least not that I can tell). I'm going to try some new plug wires today and see where that goes. Any and all hints are welcome...

Thanks

Carl's Z

 

you mite want to take a look at your rev limiter .......the little black box at the throttle body ..........just a thought .....when mine got wet it acted like that ...mabe your is taking it's last dummp

 

huh? stock 280zx's don't have a REV LIMITER. The "black box" on the side of the throttle body is called THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR.

 

ya, and without the TPS your revs are limited to 3500! hahaha

 

indeed... my ZX is doin the same damned thing.. but its hit & miss I know I have 2 plug wires that are arcing like mad but I'll check my TPS, he Bleach are they easy to clean or should I just replace it if thats the case?

 

pop off the plug on the top. clean and then dry both connections. That should do it.

I've never replaced mine.

 

I'll try that, but the connector is pretty new (but that doesn't mean anything). I'll clean 'er up and put some dialectric in her to make sure and see what happens. Thanks for the tip...

Carl's Z

 

Elaborate please....

 

UPDATE:, Wires, Cap & Rotor...

1st gear pulls hard to 5k
2nd Gear pulls to 5500
No more misfires


I run it hard when I am autocrossing/schooling a honda or two the engine is goin to be replaced any way so thats my logic thanks for the help

 

i have been calling the TPS ....the rev limter ....hahaaha ......thats what i thought it was well i was wrong.......... sorry ......i will check hanyes next time ..

 

Carl, how old's the TPS? It might be acting up or it might not be adjusted properly. The problem with the 280zx is that it's TPS is actually a switch, not a sensor. And at WOT the TPS tells the ECU to go into closed loop mode. Which means it only takes it's orders from the head temp and AFM. Anything less than WOT (as long as the car is warmed up) and the ECU takes it's orders from the O2 sensor in open loop. Basically if the TPS isn't adjusted right it's going to tell the computer something that isn't true, like it's wide open when it's really not or vice versa. So that might be starting point if your TPS and it's contacts aren't bad. IF you've got an Ohmmeter you can check and adjust the TPS to make sure its operating correctly and positioned properly.