Strut tower bar specs
 

Does anyone on here know the exact specs for building your own strut tower bars? I have an 82 zx NA. I have pictures to kinda get the general idea from, but not sure on the sizes of anything. I tried googling the specs but, as usual, to no avail. I would really appreciate anything. I do know for a fact that i can get the materials and weld them cheaper than I can buy the finished product.

You can use whatever you want to build your own strut bars... there's no "exact standard". Obviously "beefy" is better than "flimsy".

I used 1/2" stainless steel sch40 pipe and 1/8" plate worked great!!

Save your time. Mine came with Braces when I bought mine. Took them off to do the Engine swap and swap interiors. Made absolutely NO dam difference. :023: Honestly I think unless your car is HIGHLY modified and your competing in like a SCCA track event and you wanted to shave a few mil-seconds off you lap time. Then ok go for it. Daily driving you wont notice much. Replace your struts and go over your joints and bushings. Make a noticeable change right off the bat. Also mine was built for straight up track day racing. It ruined the car!!! Literally pot holes feel as if the uni body was getting bent. Railroad tracks will dislocate hips and bruise vertebrae. I hate it. Just words of wisdom.

I you auto cross or even drive your car agressively you will notice the difference mostly with a front brace. A rear brace will help as well but not to the same degree that the front does. If you have a sloppy suspension (worn bushings/struts, etc) then you are also not going to notice the addition of the strut bar. I like Evandubya's setup as it helps to stiffen the front end even more.

Think of it like a cardboard box with the top open. Close the top and tape it shut and the box becomes much more ridgid - same with strut braces as you are completing the box shape of the suspension rather than having the top opened.