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-   -   Removing the Clock ? - '83 280zx (https://www.zdriver.com/forums/280zx-s130-forums-77/removing-clock-83-280zx-18066/)

3XAZOWNER Apr 26, 2006 05:21 PM

Removing the Clock ? - '83 280zx
 
I have the glove box, stereo and all out of my parts car. I need to swap the clock from my parts car to my new (new to me) ZX. What must I remove to get the clock out and into the new car? Everything is out of the parts car, so that is no problem, but I don't want to remove anything that I don't have to in my new car. I have pulled the motor out of the new car and pulled the (rebuilt) motor from the parts car and put in the new car, repainted the engine bay, reupholstered the seats, put in new carpet, steel wooled my stock rims and numerous other things and I am tired of working on it. So I don't want to remove anything I don't have to. This was fun when it first started out, but now I am ready to drive. All I have left is springs and struts, a friend is painting it for me, and new tires. I hope to have it ready for ZDAYZ in North Carolina May 19. Is anyone planning on going to ZDAYZ? Thanks for the help on the clock issue!

hoov100 Apr 26, 2006 05:27 PM

once you have the little tri-gauge thingy out, pull off the wires on the circut board (just push them forward) then unscrew the circut board, (the other two gauges are atached to the board) then once you have it off, there is one screw on the side of the cluster that sticks out about 1" pull the rubber end off, unscrew it, then the top of the plastic housing should come off, once you have that off there are three screws holding the clock down, un-do those and screw it all back together. just try not to lose the clock knobs.

n00blar Apr 27, 2006 06:17 AM

Heh, that's exactly what I did last night.

I got the whole dash out in about 1.5 hrs (steering wheel and all). I will be replacing the tri-gauges also, not to mention that leaking heater valve.

nismo619 Apr 27, 2006 09:48 AM

I had to take out the hole dash to get to my clock.. 4 bolts on top 4 or 8 bolts on the bottom lowe the steering wheel.. disconnect the throddle cable..pulled out the das from the passenger side out..i had help 2 guys u know.. umm the reason why i did was because i had a broke soder connectiong leading to my oil pressure gauge.. i fixed it..

n00blar Apr 27, 2006 11:45 AM


Originally Posted by nismo619
I had to take out the hole dash to get to my clock.. 4 bolts on top 4 or 8 bolts on the bottom lowe the steering wheel.. disconnect the throddle cable..pulled out the das from the passenger side out..i had help 2 guys u know.. umm the reason why i did was because i had a broke soder connectiong leading to my oil pressure gauge.. i fixed it..

Yup, exactly what I did.
I ordered a new dash cap, I'm raplacing the tri-gauge and maybe the cluster gauge. I also ordered a replacement for my heater valve, so I'm getting that by Tuesday, I think. So, I ended up remvoving the entire thing.

SpeciallySpiked Apr 27, 2006 12:17 PM

Where did you end up getting that new heater valve and how much was it? (if ya don't mind me asking :001: )

hoov100 Apr 27, 2006 01:07 PM

i have an entire manual climate control A/C system, including a blower that works. :unibrow:

n00blar Apr 27, 2006 02:29 PM


Originally Posted by SpeciallySpiked
Where did you end up getting that new heater valve and how much was it? (if ya don't mind me asking :001: )

I got it from here, and it wasn't cheap...I paid $104.00 with S&H. :fenforcer:
I know it's a lot, but I really didn't want to get used part and then have to change it again 6 months later; changing this part is such a pain in the ass.

But then again, most parts for my ZX are not for sale in FL and the yards don't carry these cars either.

n00blar Apr 27, 2006 02:32 PM


Originally Posted by hoov100zx
i have an entire manual climate control A/C system, including a blower that works. :unibrow:

Heh, I spent two days looking for this part in my area..and no one, until now, said anything about having a spare part. :089:

hoov100 Apr 27, 2006 02:41 PM

is this the little valve system on the back of the heater core?

jfairladyz Apr 27, 2006 04:52 PM


Originally Posted by nismo619
I had to take out the hole dash to get to my clock.. 4 bolts on top 4 or 8 bolts on the bottom lowe the steering wheel.. disconnect the throddle cable..pulled out the das from the passenger side out..i had help 2 guys u know.. umm the reason why i did was because i had a broke soder connectiong leading to my oil pressure gauge.. i fixed it..

You do know that once the glove box is out it's only one screw and a electrical connector to get the entire guage assembly out right? You don't have to remove the dash to get it out.

n00blar Apr 27, 2006 05:01 PM


Originally Posted by jfairladyz
You do know that once the glove box is out it's only one screw and a electrical connector to get the entire guage assembly out right? You don't have to remove the dash to get it out.

Good thing to know j, I'll do that on my spare parts ZX :D
I'm going to swap the tri-gauge on my ZX.

3XAZOWNER Apr 28, 2006 04:59 PM

How in the love of Z cars, do you get that white electrical wiring harness plug off ? I broke the small part of the board and jump wires to the main board on my parts car but for life of me, i cannot get the white electrical piece to come off of the board. Even after breaking it and getting the tri-gauge board out, I still cannot get the plug off of what is left of the small board on the back. I did get the clock out but don't want to screw up my new one. I tried to push in the plastic clips on the top and bottom of the white connector but it doesn't give or act like it wants to slip off of the pins on the board. I don't want to break it, so unless the white connector comes off of the pins on the board somehow, I will have to wait until I can find someone to show me ! Anyone experienced this white wiring harness plug not coming off, or am I doing it wrong? Thanks.

hoov100 Apr 28, 2006 05:42 PM

you kinda have to wiggle it off, pain in the ass, thats why i switched to 280z guages.

jfairladyz Apr 28, 2006 09:30 PM

Use a small flathead screwdriver and carefully pry against the connector. Dont pry against the board. Once you get it up a few mm it will wiggle off fairly easily. I know what you mean though. I've also damaged a board trying to get one off before.


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