Rear caliper e-brake trouble
 

I just installed a new brake caliper, keft rear, because the old one had a stuck e brake.
After mounting the new one, bleeding it and adjusting the e brake wire, i delivered my car to the auto shop for the eu approval we have to get in order to get the license plates.

The message I got back was loud and clear, still no e brake....
So I got the car back home, bleeded it some more, no results. The leverarm for the e brake moves freely (to freely) than i should. And when the brake pads touch the discs, it just stops working, like it looses all power... This works fine if i use the brake pedal, but not on the handbrake... I tried adjusting it by screwing the piston out a bit, pumped with the e brake arm on the caliper, no more power. It moves until I reach resistance, and thats a wrap.... What to do??? Returning the caliper is a no go, since shipping this back to the us is extremely expensive. I bought it from the z store

Bleeding the brakes only removes air bubbles from the hydraulic lines. The emergency brake is cable actuated. You can adjust the cable at the handle, and where the line splits to go left and right (at the U).

The FSM explains how to adjust: XenonS130 - S130 Reference

I know this!!! But when changing caliper you should REALLY bleed your brakes, but the lever arm than conects to the e brake wire does not work properly, it moves the piston but when the piston meets resistance, it stops "pushing" totaly... No power...

From what you said in your first post, you re-bled the caliper after finding out the ebrake doesn't work... that's why I said bleeding the line won't fix the e-brake problem. :D


Meaning the cable is not pulling hard enough? With the cable disconnected from the caliper, can you move the lever? Does the cable retract farther (disconnected) ?

When you apply the brakes, do both sides apply the same pressure, or can you still turn one side (rotor)?

E/brake problems
 

Bad brake master not holding pressure ot you have a leak in the system. Check those issues.

read the literature!!! E brake is a strictly mechanical system. Has nothing to do with anything hydraulic. You have a faulty or filthy caliper. The E brake cable is stuck frozen or other wise f**ed up. Make sure the ebrake handle has not come loose. If memory serves (not always good at my age) the bracket is held with some crappy resistance weld. On my 81 I had to drill it out and bolt it down. probably a better way to do it anyway. resistance welds save a bunch in manufacture but aren't all that reliable.

That is exactly what I found with my 83. The handbrake bracket was held on with some 10-32 screws to the tunnel. Now it can hold up the car, I love to weld. Specially when the metal is solid and rust free.

Anyway the e-brake is certainly all mechanical and if the cable is adjusted properly will hold quite well. Usually the cables are stuck or the pivot point where the two cables meet is frozen\rusted and will limit travel

The cable is brand new and runs freely, just overlook the post ehere I wrote that I bleed it again. It was a desperate try. I took the caliper out again, released the caliper from the "sheild/holder" or whatever, when moving the e brake arm the piston moves, but ehen you put it against something that gives some resistance, it looses the power. I took the piston out completely, cleaned up every part, making sure everything moves easily, reassembled it, but still the same problem... I really don't understand what the error is... And how is this even possible on a brand new caliper??

Found the problem, the new caliper was faulty. Repaired the old one. Problem solved. Lesson: dont buy parts from the z store

Details please...
What was faulty?
What did you repair on the old one?
Is your car 79-81 or 82-83?

Maybe... but they are the main source of S30 / S130 parts these days and have a very good reputation. You CAN return it... but just because return shipping will be expensive doesn't mean MSA is crooked. :D