Well started pulling the motor out of the 81. The exhaust system, rad, all cooling / wireing and fuel lines are off so is the heat shields to the drive shaft. Car is exactly 3 ft off the ground. Still got to remove the clutch lines and power steering. Motor mounts are un bolted now before I take out the tranny mounts I need help.

#1 can I pull the motor useing the lift bracket and the intake by that e.g.r or whatever that lil funky valve thing is looks like a perfect place to wrap a chain?

#2 what kind of clearance and angle do I need to pull the motor and tranny?

#3 would it be easier to chop the rad supports out and pull it straight out like a 4.0 in a Cherokee? Car has terminal cancer:

# 4 other than gaskets and fluid changes what should I do when its out?

# 5 we said screw the 71 my 81 has a fuel pump delete. Were useing a south Texas 79 body. we got a turbo tranny and my N/A tranny heard the turbo is smoother how ever very much weaker.

Thanks guys first ever small car pull used to chevys 77-83 so very much more complex due to no clearance anywhere looks like a s.o.b

 

It's definitely a VERY VERY easy motor to pull. you can pull the trans and motor out together no problem.

you can use the intake manifold as a lift point but wrap multiple intake runners not just one.

if you want to cut the core support out go for it, is that even a real question? lol with more material removed from anything it's easier to pull an engine. the hard part is putting the core support back in there if you wanted to for some reason.

I would also clean the whole motor and paint it so it looks fresh. maybe refresh the piston rings to and hone the cylinders. new timing belt. any and all work you think might be a good idea or something you want to do in the future to the motor is MUCH easier to get done while on an engine stand than compared to in the car.

T5 and NA tranny, not a whole lot difference. it should be able to withstand a little more torque, according to number crunchers, however seems people make power just fine on NA trannies as well. so whatever floats your boat.

 

use a chain from mount to mount. pick the motor about 4" from the front of the valve cover and the rear mount, itll come right out. if you have a leveler (30 bux) use it, it makes things go very easy. dont even bother taking the clutch line off, just remove the 2 bolts for the slave. from running to out and on a stand it takes me bout an hour.

 

big second ^^^ didn't notice the clutch line part. and 30 dollars for a leveler? i wish, i see em for more around 100 or more usually

 

really?

I have L6's yanked and the new one dropped in and running in 4 hours
there a piece of cake!

 

L motors dont have timing belts

the N/A L series 5 speed and the L28et T5 5 speed are very different.
having an L series bell housing is the only thing they have in common.

 

I slipped on the belt thing. I know it has a chain. I actually haven't owned a car, other than my talon, that had anything but a timing chain since i was 18.

And I never said they were the same... I was simply referring to how they hold power. Seems no one person has said "oh yeah my T5 is so much strong, held power way better than my NA trans".

Quit it damnit! lol.

 

its a bit stronger but the N/A trans holds up to L28et power just fine (what I ran too)

the bonus of using the T5 is that its a Borg Warner trans and you can rebuild it with all the mustang world class guts and make it super strong.

 

Thanks for the help..... The former A$$HOLE owner decided the factory 1981 Zx FU%&ING uses 1/2 coarse standard bolts when he FU#%ing used a 14 and 12 mm to unbolt the thing so no rear stud and bracket.

Wraping the chain around the exaust manifold. Its an easy one was worried about the weight I benched pressed the motor and tranny in the car its fine.

Now the 80's fuel pump wount kick over SOB ! im going to Heil coil the totaled threads on the head oh and they used a 3/4 lag bolts on the down pipe to cat. Some people need to be shot.!!!!