Little Help Plz
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 22
Little Help Plz
Hello Evryone Happy New Year ! Ive Had My Z For Over A Year Already Bein Doin Nothin But Restorin it, I Got It Up In The Mountains For $500 Runnin Beat Up nd Slow. Up To Date I Have A Total of 9k In It Runnin Like A Beast, Restorin it From When It Got Rebuilt Before I Got it Only Thing The Kids Had It Bad Maintained. I Kno I Still Gotta Fix more Things To Make it Run Faster nd Stronger. One Problem I got Right Now Is My Idle In The Mornings Or When I First Turn It On After A Couple Hours Bein Off. Ive Chenged All The Sensors That Are Related To The Coolin Stuff. Fours Sensors Total nd Thermostas Spent A Good 300Bucks On That, Idles Quicker But Still Not Quick Enough. Can Anybody Sumbody Help Me On That Please. Thank You
The Emblem Thief y0!
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 948
From: Tulsa, Ok
Hello Evryone Happy New Year ! Ive Had My Z For Over A Year Already Bein Doin Nothin But Restorin it, I Got It Up In The Mountains For $500 Runnin Beat Up nd Slow. Up To Date I Have A Total of 9k In It Runnin Like A Beast, Restorin it From When It Got Rebuilt Before I Got it Only Thing The Kids Had It Bad Maintained. I Kno I Still Gotta Fix more Things To Make it Run Faster nd Stronger. One Problem I got Right Now Is My Idle In The Mornings Or When I First Turn It On After A Couple Hours Bein Off. Ive Chenged All The Sensors That Are Related To The Coolin Stuff. Fours Sensors Total nd Thermostas Spent A Good 300Bucks On That, Idles Quicker But Still Not Quick Enough. Can Anybody Sumbody Help Me On That Please. Thank You
Hello everyone, happy new year! I've had my Z for over a year already, been doing nothing but restoring it. I got it up in the mountains for $500, running, beat up, and slow. Up to date, I have spent a total of about $9,000 on it, and it's running like a beast. Restoring it from when it got rebuilt. Before I got it, it had been poorly maintained. I know I still have to fix a few more things to make it run faster and stronger. Right now, one problem I have is my idle in the morning is pretty rough, or when I first turn it on after a couple of hours of being off (Cold start). But once it gets to operating temperature it runs fine(?) I've changed all the sensors that are related to the cooling system. Four sensors and the thermostat (Spend a good $300 on all of it), it idles quicker, but it still idles under what the norm is. Can someone help me on that please? Thank you!
Big Poppa
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,499
From: Mission, British Columbia
Lmfao and not the band. You need to check the idle air bypass located ontop of the intake manifold down stream of the tb. It's operated by a bi metallic spring and often fails. I removed mine and live just fine without it. Also check for vacuum leaks yo
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 17
From: Garden Grove, Calif
Oh thanks for translating
Wangan
Thank you for the american English translation.
Hello everyone, happy new year! I've had my Z for over a year already, been doing nothing but restoring it. I got it up in the mountains for $500, running, beat up, and slow. Up to date, I have spent a total of about $9,000 on it, and it's running like a beast. Restoring it from when it got rebuilt. Before I got it, it had been poorly maintained. I know I still have to fix a few more things to make it run faster and stronger. Right now, one problem I have is my idle in the morning is pretty rough, or when I first turn it on after a couple of hours of being off (Cold start). But once it gets to operating temperature it runs fine(?) I've changed all the sensors that are related to the cooling system. Four sensors and the thermostat (Spend a good $300 on all of it), it idles quicker, but it still idles under what the norm is. Can someone help me on that please? Thank you!
Reply.. reading the above I hope one of the sensors was a Cylinder Head Temp Sensor. If it was not replaced, I would suggest replacement.
My second 280ZXT responded with a new CHTS by running nicely after a five minute warm up. The other possibility could be corroded connectors to each injector, solved by spray cleaner and a half hour of work. Next would be too lean a fuel mix, often adjusted to pass Smog but after passing adding richness will increase idle speed and reduce the surgeing at road speed.
Cheers, 350zpuzz
Thank you for the american English translation.
Hello everyone, happy new year! I've had my Z for over a year already, been doing nothing but restoring it. I got it up in the mountains for $500, running, beat up, and slow. Up to date, I have spent a total of about $9,000 on it, and it's running like a beast. Restoring it from when it got rebuilt. Before I got it, it had been poorly maintained. I know I still have to fix a few more things to make it run faster and stronger. Right now, one problem I have is my idle in the morning is pretty rough, or when I first turn it on after a couple of hours of being off (Cold start). But once it gets to operating temperature it runs fine(?) I've changed all the sensors that are related to the cooling system. Four sensors and the thermostat (Spend a good $300 on all of it), it idles quicker, but it still idles under what the norm is. Can someone help me on that please? Thank you!
Reply.. reading the above I hope one of the sensors was a Cylinder Head Temp Sensor. If it was not replaced, I would suggest replacement.
My second 280ZXT responded with a new CHTS by running nicely after a five minute warm up. The other possibility could be corroded connectors to each injector, solved by spray cleaner and a half hour of work. Next would be too lean a fuel mix, often adjusted to pass Smog but after passing adding richness will increase idle speed and reduce the surgeing at road speed.
Cheers, 350zpuzz
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 22
thank u shady ill look that up..
@ 350z believe it or not i dont have the "chts" on my car. i checkd it out after i saw that i was suppose to have one on one of the repair manuals. but i have no hole nor sensor conection wire hangin loose.. appearently i have parts from both the canadian and american model, some i dont have and some i do
btw..are you part or a z club down in your area?
@ 350z believe it or not i dont have the "chts" on my car. i checkd it out after i saw that i was suppose to have one on one of the repair manuals. but i have no hole nor sensor conection wire hangin loose.. appearently i have parts from both the canadian and american model, some i dont have and some i do
btw..are you part or a z club down in your area?
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 17
From: Garden Grove, Calif
Group-Z
Tkprez
Yes GroupZ www.groupz.com
About the CHTS - in a cold climate a fixed resistor could set the threshold. Yep Japan gets very cold, but city driving / idleing / stuck in traffic adjusting the fuel rate can save a lot of gas..
A good CHTS gives a nice wide range of adjustment of the air fuel regulator ( a spiral spring under that plastic front cover on the side of the air meter). It was set very lean, causing surging, to pass Calif Smog - Testing i put the bad CHTS in place and it barely changed the ratio manually twisting spring.
This is the White 81zxt, a replacement for my Silver 81zxt (200,000 mile)
The white Z had many smog re-tests while it was sorted out. A pain but a good learning experience.
Passed smog like a new car. amazing low numbers for a 1981 zxt with 95,000 miles.
I admit a new after market Cat was added, new O2 sensor, Bosch wires, cap and rotor, then cleaning the injector connectors. Also all vaccum lines were new.
Erg valve and its tubes in the manifold were cleaned with Berryman's spray.
Yes it is still cold blooded - but a five minute idle and the idle comes down to 700 rpm it is drivable.
About the old ECU and it sensors:
( the tach needle is magnetic, on the face of the tach are two dots. The pickups are at 700 and 850 rpm
the computer adjusts the fuel to stay between those two dots. )
(Also the computer is in open loop until
the oil temp is above 160 degrees,
then in closed loop it asks the O2 sensor "does it smell too rich?"
and adjusts the fuel and writes to ECU the current numbers in the CPU for the next startup )
After 15 minutes and it is ready to spool the turbo. The power is back!
Yes the computer and it's sensors are crude by todays OBD-II standards, but you got to love it.
Examples the TPS only knows closed plate or not. ( does not know the amount of open )
And the Boost sensor on the left fender has one tube ( positive pressure ) to close a switch to tell the cpu switch to map 3 boost - map 1 idle - map 2 driving no boost
Regards, John
( the 350z 2003 had vanity plates PUZ Z was totaled - the remaining rear plate is now on my Shiro )
Yes GroupZ www.groupz.com
About the CHTS - in a cold climate a fixed resistor could set the threshold. Yep Japan gets very cold, but city driving / idleing / stuck in traffic adjusting the fuel rate can save a lot of gas..
A good CHTS gives a nice wide range of adjustment of the air fuel regulator ( a spiral spring under that plastic front cover on the side of the air meter). It was set very lean, causing surging, to pass Calif Smog - Testing i put the bad CHTS in place and it barely changed the ratio manually twisting spring.
This is the White 81zxt, a replacement for my Silver 81zxt (200,000 mile)
The white Z had many smog re-tests while it was sorted out. A pain but a good learning experience.
Passed smog like a new car. amazing low numbers for a 1981 zxt with 95,000 miles.
I admit a new after market Cat was added, new O2 sensor, Bosch wires, cap and rotor, then cleaning the injector connectors. Also all vaccum lines were new.
Erg valve and its tubes in the manifold were cleaned with Berryman's spray.
Yes it is still cold blooded - but a five minute idle and the idle comes down to 700 rpm it is drivable.
About the old ECU and it sensors:
( the tach needle is magnetic, on the face of the tach are two dots. The pickups are at 700 and 850 rpm
the computer adjusts the fuel to stay between those two dots. )
(Also the computer is in open loop until
the oil temp is above 160 degrees,
then in closed loop it asks the O2 sensor "does it smell too rich?"
and adjusts the fuel and writes to ECU the current numbers in the CPU for the next startup )
After 15 minutes and it is ready to spool the turbo. The power is back!
Yes the computer and it's sensors are crude by todays OBD-II standards, but you got to love it.
Examples the TPS only knows closed plate or not. ( does not know the amount of open )
And the Boost sensor on the left fender has one tube ( positive pressure ) to close a switch to tell the cpu switch to map 3 boost - map 1 idle - map 2 driving no boost
Regards, John
( the 350z 2003 had vanity plates PUZ Z was totaled - the remaining rear plate is now on my Shiro )
Last edited by 350zpuzz; Jan 11, 2012 at 08:30 PM. Reason: fixed text
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 548
From: Foresthill, California
thank u shady ill look that up..
@ 350z believe it or not i dont have the "chts" on my car. i checkd it out after i saw that i was suppose to have one on one of the repair manuals. but i have no hole nor sensor conection wire hangin loose.. appearently i have parts from both the canadian and american model, some i dont have and some i do
btw..are you part or a z club down in your area?
@ 350z believe it or not i dont have the "chts" on my car. i checkd it out after i saw that i was suppose to have one on one of the repair manuals. but i have no hole nor sensor conection wire hangin loose.. appearently i have parts from both the canadian and american model, some i dont have and some i do
btw..are you part or a z club down in your area?
The Good Twin
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 20,639
From: Wild Wild West, UTAH!
Yep... it's a coolant temp sensor. Actually the exact same sensor as the CHTS... just located in the thermostat housing, not in the back side of the head. Search my posts... I have posted pics of them before.
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 548
From: Foresthill, California
