Ok its says

YORK
No. M1559403
Pt. F206R-16821
Refrig, -12 05-72
York
DIV OF BORG WARNER CORP. YORK, PA.

 

6.10 ci (100 cc) and right side discharge, damn. Its the right one, but too small... You might be able to sell it to a local 4x4 person, if you clean it up a little.

 

Eh You can have the thing if you want it. Im not gonna bother with it really other then maybe the aluminum case

 

nah, I'm gonna pass, the one i need flows more then double that.

 

Huh. big as AC system or what? Ah well Good luck. Oh ya did you still want that auto shifter? or did you find one? I'm not gonna do the trans swap for about a month or so (unless I REALLY cant start that auto) tho

 

I'm gonna have to pass on that as well, my pockets for z car parts is running low.

 

Well I should have known nothing would go right. The mechanical pump is leaking like mad. One carb is getting WHY to much fuel while the other seems to be getting no fuel at all *sighs* and I got an FPR but it just blew up as soon as the 40 PSI from the pump hit it to I returned it. I wish L24 heads had the little dimple for the fuel injectors.

 

just pull the mechanical pump and make some gaskets for it and use it. Let me guess, the front carb is getting fuel and the second one isnt?

 

Other way around. back is getting so much fuel its spilling out the over flow while the front is bone dry. And the line to it isn't clogged. I already checked

And I pulls out the drain plug on the card. a drop of gas came out while the back one poured out. Im gussing its the float system is stuck. Meh I dont have money to muck around with these carbs just yet

 

If SU's have float bowls I would start checking to see if they are stuck. you might have to pull them apart and clean them up.

 

I just did and its not stuck... hmm Maybe its gummed up somewhere I cant see

 

did you open the float bowls up?
is it a black float thats attached to the bowl top or is a free floating brass float?
are the bowl walls smooth or do they have vertical ridges?

do you have oil in the dashpots?

if you lift each piston inside the carb up all the way to the top, dose it go right up or go with resistance?
when you let it go dose it go all the way back down on its own?
are your needles strait?

check your chokes, are they all the way in?

and did you make sure to have at least semi close AFR to start with?

 

Yes
Black
Smooth, but I wasnt paying to much attention

Yes There is oil and to proper level

They go up with resistance
Yes it goes all the way back down on its own
Needles are fine

No clue I cant tell

I have NO clue how to test that to be honest

 

good, then you have the right floats and bowls, no ones slapped roadster floats into Z car bowls (vice versa) and no ones tried sticking roadster bowls on there.


are your needles and floats in spec?

do you know where your chokes are?

if you dont have a uni-synce you just have to eye ball it, for a starting point turn your adjustment screws all the way in and then turn them out 2 full turns exactly on both.

 

Uh... No damn clue really

Yes but I forgot to get the choke cable mounts and the cables heh

And I'll do that then. I need to fix the Fuel pump first or get an FPR

 

setting the needles

1. Warm up the car
2. Shut it off and remove the carb domes
3. Remove spring from dashpot
4. Carefully remove the dashpot
5. Loosen the set-screw that holds the needle so that the needle can move a bit
6. Turn the adjusting nuts all the way in
7. Pull the needles out about 1/8" or so, you should see the shoulder of the needle sticking out past the dashpot body
8. CAREFULLY reinstall the dashpot, and push down gently to seat the needle fully in the nozzle
9. Pull the dashpot back out, snug down the needle set screws, and put them back together.

checking the floats

1. Pull the float bowl tops
2. turn the cover upside down, and get a 1/8" in drill bit
3. set the drill bit accross the cover, the float tab should just touch the bit


then tune the AFR and balance the carbs


make sure one of the chokes isnt sticking open a little bit instead of closing all the way

 

Ok I'll do that then. Thanks! Now to try to fix this damn fuel pump so I can use my Alternator and water pump.

OH YA! Does someone have a pic of how the alternator hooks up? I let my friend unhook it and I have no ****ing clue how it hooked up

EDIT: I got the run to sorta run. The fuel pump was leaking so badly that I couldnt get it working right. so it ran like crap along with bad timing. but it did run

 

Oddly the carbs are now fine and I haven't touched them yet... And I got to drive my z a bit! a grand total of 6 feet before the fuel pump coughed up its guts

 

you could just bypass your electric pump ya know... and just run the mechanical and no need for a FPR.

unplug it, take off the hoses and then just run the rubber line from the tank to the start of the hard line.
soon as you get a working mechanical pump your good to go.


should still do all the adjustments while your getting your hands dirty just to make sure, there quick and easy to do.

 

A good few days to late for that skib, pumps been bypassed and the mechanical pump was working for a bit till it blew out a seal

 

if you already have the electrical pump bypassed and are just running the mechanical what do you need a FPR for?


throw that POS pump away and get yourself a working one and your good

 

Cuz a FPR is cheaper then a fuel pump lol Oh ya, and I can have my power steering back!

 

are you planning to run the mechanical pump and a FPR with no electric pump?

 

Actually I plan to run and electric pump and a FPR so I can have my power steering. Right now Im just trying to get this thing to run

 

Ok I took the fuel pump apart and found the bad gasket. I made my own and used some RTV to help. Now Im just waiting for it to dry