Hey ALL well insted of buying new calipers i rebuilt the ones that i had i got new rotters$26 a piece I grinded the old caliper plate down and rebuilt the silnder with a rebuild kit $34 each side after that i grinded the wheel well down and repaited the rear end plates and A arm I got some helpon the brake line bending from a freind and we bent the line out of new line kit the auto parts store had stops on a dime ..... I also made my own intake for $35 to hell with paying $160 for the one from motor sports i got an $11 dollar 3" pipe and a $20 red cone filter i removed the stock air box and rubber boot i fliped the boot over and put it on the new intake side i had another rubber boot from another intake job that i took from a hundyi TIBERON i put it on the air flow meter side i cut a small plastic piece for inbetween the to and clamped it up works great and it didnt cost a arm and a leg :burnout:


PEACE

 

Very nicely done. I would just eliminate the pipe. You'll get no advantage from the long pipe in front of the radiator. It will probably just make the filter bounce up and down without any support out there on that 'arm'.

Just clamp the cone filter to airbox pipe right on the other side of the radiator support.

That'll give it a nice little 90deg bend coming out from the engine bay and will give the filter more support over bumpy roads without the lever effect you may have now. You may be able to get your $11 back!

 

The pipe is attched to the front air dam as you can see in these pics. I though about attching the cone to the the air folw senser
with out the pipe how ever the cone is to big I also like the cold air effect the happens when the air passes though the dam and into the cone . For every one degree that you lower the temp of your motor you gain a 1/2 of a horsepower .SO with that inmined cold air is better then shortram style that you speak of. The pipe also gets very cold with the air hitting It. It also adds to the cold air effect There is very little wiggle to the pipe only as much as the air dam it self will move witch isn't much i would like to try the shortram stlye some time maybe when i buy a new filter i will find one thats smaller

 

Good job on the brakes. I installed my slotted rotors today. I also found out that the 84 Maxima front brake pads are not the same as the 280ZX brake pads even though their suspension and brakes LOOK the same. The maxima pads are the same shape but just slightly smaller.

 

wish i could have found sloted rooters cheap mabe for the front

 

Ahh! Yes, I see it now. Remember though, water doesn't compress. The reason I cut the hole in the BACK of my original airbox was so if/when I hit water it wouldn't suck it into the intake in large gulps.

With the rain were having in the Bay Area right now, just tonight I was driving through significant levels of standing water on the #1 & #2 lanes on the highway. The air dam would funnel that right up to the intake.

I suspect this may have been one reason why they put the intake behind the headlight. It'll diffuse/deflect the water enough to prevent large amounts from being sucked through the intake. Of course, you can solve this problem by not driving in the rain.

 

Although slotted rotors look cool, they are unnecessary. They'll actually make your brakes run hotter and are really designed to swipe the pads clean in the event they are contaminated with debris. They'll burn through your pads faster too.

Get a set of KVR Carbon Fiber brake pads and it'll improve the modulation on your stock rotors.

 

Thanks for the info i will try to find them for the front

I have driven in the rain alot and i checked the filter all the time to see if it got wet. BIG water all over the roads here lately snowing and all that **** and i havent felt any wetness any where on the filter { i am not driving into big puddles to test it more though} it seems to be ok i will keep checking it

 

Call Ross at www.Modern-Motorsports.com. He carries them at a reasonable price.