Can the plastic case on the TPS be pried off, the base looks to have two clips in the plastic but the casing did not want to come off easly. so i left it alone, the leads were slightly corroded and i used some WD40 and 120 grit to clean it up, looks shiny now. did the same to the wiring harness that connects to it.

As for the AFM It sounds like a slight delay in pulling air when i rev it. messing with the TPS seems to hard helped alot tho, i got it to 6k no problems, no stutter or hitch at all. But then it started acting up again.

Also the car runs about the same with the TPS disconnected or not, which i found to be odd. Altho it really does not like revving with it disconnected lol.

Checking wiring on CHTS and i found a screw on my AFM for gas/air mix, I turned counter clockwise as it smelled very rich and it seems to have smoothed it out a bit more. Im pretty sure it was originally driven and stored at the same alt. that i am at now so im not sure why the mix would be off so much.

Never been able to get it to 6k before, and it sounded clean while doing it too, made me feel warm and fuzzy, actualy it made me want to see if i could break the tires loose down my street but i think my neighbors may get upset. Cars not registered currently so that may be a bad idea .

That's another issue, gonna cost 500 to get it registered because old owner DID NOT put it into non op. so the reg just lapsed, anyone know a way around this? OUCH.

Cleaning all the contacts with electrical connection cleaner stuff. Red can, made by Ball, forget name, very flammable, smells like rubber cement. :\

The CHTS cable looked fine. I cleaned the connector anyways but it didn't even have any corrosion on it. the O2 sensor cable looks ok. Havnt checked the sensor its self tho. Im not sure how it comes out yet. need a small mirror, hard to see around corners.

 

might ask the local office when you go in, i would imagine since it was him that let it lapse and they have you buying it at X date that they would go after the other guy but we dont have those sort of problems here in oregon. i guess they figure, if its not licenced, its not on the roads....but could be running else where.

as for the AFM there was a thing about pushing on the flappy and weither it got better or stumbled it might have needed an internal adjustment but i would replace CHTS first you cant "eye ball it" to see if its good since its a resistor that goes bad over time. you could check resistance but its easier to replace it at $10 to $20

 

ok, now its mostly just throttle response. It hesitates, wants to stall if i romp on it.

 

idk how smart these cars are, but apparently not very smart ha ha.

 

did you change that CHTS?

 

taking care of that today. didnt have time yesterday to get a new one.

 

oh wow, i disconnected the CHTS and the throttle response is instant altho with the CHTS disconnected the idel drops to 400 and she almost stalls after throttling er, reconnect and she wants to stall when you gas er.

I would believe this is indicative of the CHTS being bad?

 

anyone know a part number for the CHTS? this part is beggining to be a pain to find, Autozone does not have them, NAPA does not either. :\

 

Nissan lists it as a "coolant temp sensor" because the 280z / 79 280zx's had no CHTS, it was stuffed in the thermostat housing.

http://www.courtesyparts.com/engine-...-p-569132.html

For future reference, you can find any 280zx part number here:

http://www.courtesyparts.com/

or here:

http://nissan4u.com/parts/

 

w00t thanks. me and my brother were looking for this part. sheesh, stupid interchangeable parts

 

ended up getting a TS5520 from NAPA, which is their part number for the CTS for a 79-90 Datsun engine. http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Det...520_0169645378

It runs the same. with the new one. bleh. Not sure if this is even the correct part, it does look different.

http://www.courtesyparts.com/engine-...ath=7002_7767&

Anyone know the impedance this things sposed to have under temp? or how to test to see if its working? im stuck.

I disconnect the CTS and the throttle response is instant. But she idles really low.
With the CTS (new and original) connected she hesitates and wants to stall with revving.

 

If you haven't bought a Haynes manual yet, I suggest buying one tonight...

https://www.zdriver.com/forums/showt...ghlight=sensor

 

i've tested Cylinder and Coolant temp sensors and they both test out the same....they are the same sensor, located in different areas.

the worse CHTS location is in the VG30E though...horrible horrible designers, no biskit for them

 

some of you have been helping me with my zcar, and all your advice is very helpful. But im still having the same issue. Im stuck again.

When i disconnect the CHTS the idle drops to 3-400 wants to stall, but the throttle response is instant. When its connected it does not want to advance and coughs alot most of the time, initially giving it gas it wants to stall, but you can coax it up to 3500+ sometimes it'll hit 6.

Ive gotten a new CHTS and it does the same thing. I am about to rebuild (using https://www.zdriver.com/forums/240z-280zxt-s30-s130-tech-tips-275/js-how-rebuild-your-afm-15277/) the AFM and see if that helps at all.

I really want to get this car on the road, not to mention need, heh my brothers working more hours and cars are getting short. Had to drop him off at work today.

Here is my older thread:
https://www.zdriver.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29777

 

So i got the AFM apart. it does not appear to need any work really. im reading through the walkthrough again to check for key points but it looks pretty clean.

 

Merged with previous thread so we don't have to ask "What did you check" again.

Have you checked / replaced the O2 sensor?

 

Thanks, that does make more sense

Have not checked O2 sensor. Not sure where it even is. gotta look that up.

Also was going through this thread.
https://www.zdriver.com/forums/240z-280zxt-s30-s130-tech-tips-275/280zx-common-problems-checklist-purchase-inspection-16386/
Says Should not backfire in neutral when cold, gets smoother when engine heats up.

That is pretty close to one of my symptoms. It will backfire/bogdown want to stall, one of the two when givin alot of gas. If you tap tap tap tap you can get it higher RPMs without any problems. but its still not drivable.

 

jsut checked my two CHTS that i have. they appear to either both be broken, or both functional.

In 110ish water they were both reading about the same 1.132 and dropping, I did not leave them in the water for long.

 

miata -> asian buyer -> computers -> intraweb 25/7

z's -> smart awesome pr0z

 

no, it's just that we're constantly working on our cars XD

 

Ok, so. vacuum tubing (all of it) is being replaced. The light for the o2 sensor does not flash, its either off or solid depending (varys from start to start). How do i test the o2 sensor?
Oh better question, where is it? lol the manual is showing me a place but it does not appear to be there. so im not sure.

 

The oxygen sensor is located right on the exhaust pipe, its the big plug with the little wire in it. Trace your exhaust pipes. What has your progress been with this? Is it resolved?