lww

hmmm......

KasbeKZ

"****'s weak son!"

snwbrderphat540

thanks nismo hopefully my word reiterated from you will be more clear? idk haha. i cant believe how thick headed these two have become, ive never bashed the swap or called it bastardization yet.... but im getting huge amount of **** for stating facts. and i said if your ok with those down sides then ok... just dont claim the opposite end and say the Z has improved in every aspect with a 350 motor because thats not true, your making a bad *** or possible bad *** straightline car and thats all it will be with that mass up front. if it were an ALL aluminum V8 however it could be a different story. and dude, to honestly think i didnt know the L motor was cast iron block and aluminum head is pretty hurtful haha. have you seen the work i did with my car? and to not know that simple piece of info would just be mind blowing....

lww

I'm completely agnostic when it comes to motors. I've put big block Chevy's into Ford Mustang's and I've put small block Chevy's into RX-7's.

There's restorations, nostalgic builds, "Marque" builds and everything else. All have their place. The only important thing for me, when it comes to deciding whether a "choice" is a good one, is to know what is the intended use of the car. What is the goal and what are the constraints? Budget? Parts availability?

If the goal is pure straight line performance, then the link michanic220 posted of the 454 2+2 Z car with the full tube chassis, 9" Ford solid axle fully tubbed rear-end is going to give you the most "potential" for straight line performance within 1320 ft.

However, if you want to compete on a road course, then that setup probably isn't the greatest choice and I will heckle you for trying to do both, especially on a budget.

Although, I've thoroughly enjoyed reading this thread, I'm going to "politely" ask that everyone drop any additional comments that don't specifically respond to michanic220's original topic.

Thank you for your consideration in this matter.

Regards,
The Management (That's me)

Zachrates

Not to dis either, but Z cars with some performance parts added are also overdone.

100lbs is not really enough weight to throw the car off balance enough for strained driving. We're not drifting or racing tracks with these cars, there's really no difference.

And lww =D
I was just trolling =D. I just wanted to **** off snwbrderwhatever. I'll stop.

Believe it or not, I would have rebuilt the engine I had if I had the choice, but for the price, I'd rather see a gain then the same poor engine I had abused previously. When this engine blows, who knows what I'll put in it. Maybe I'll find another l2 =D.

I really didn't think I'd be proving a point, it's just fun to mess around (Although some stuff I wasn't joking about)

Edit: Oh crap man didn't see your last post when I posted a reply lww - sorry bro. Wont post about it again ^_^

SHADY280

get the kit from jtr, trust me its nice and it saves you from even having to measure one thing. the headers they sell are great, expensive but great, the speedo adapter is awesome, and the temp sender adapter is awesome too, really gets rid of the crap. get a holly blue elctric fuel pump reg kit and mount that out back, get a b&m hammer shifter with cable. youll be golden. l-dub, ive done the 1st gen rx-7 too, 375 hp. doesnt hook up as well as the z car, same show horn method tho

michanic220

it will be used as a DD and 1/4 mile.
just so everyone is clear, the 454 is out of the picture.
engine :350 small block
transmission:TH400 (for now)
differential...no idea.. from what i learned from here i have a "open differential", LOL.
im not looking to pull the front end.
just looking for good performance.
gas is no worry, because ill invest in a streetbike sometime soon.
but that doesnt mean im going to be having 2 4barrel double pumpers
sitting on the intake either.
nomatter what you do, there will always be a trade for a trade.

Zachrates

Slap on a jet engine and you'll never lose the 1/4! It'll be like the batmobile lol.

You should probably get a limited slip differential if you're going to drag race it.

Also going to need a new drive shaft, fuel pump, electric fan, speedo adapter, throttle cable, exhaust, bigger rad, and a lot bigger wheels.

snwbrderphat540

leave the diff it will work fine just add in an LSD for the R200 (replaces the factory open section) trust me your diff will hold up just fine, and if it ever does blow THEN replace it with whatever you want

michanic220

alright, thanks guys.
and fuel pump im going to stick with the manual one on the engine for now.
the electric ones pressure will blow my rockchester apart. lol.
and from what was said above about my 120-130 compression.. i do beleive this engine has low compression dished pistons in it. with 74cc heads? dont hold me to it tho.

michanic220

another thing, where exactly does the speedo connect to? i thought it ran to the front left wheel or somthing? or does it run to the transmission?

SpeciallySpiked

It runs to the transmission

snwbrderphat540

yup goes to tranny, not sure how your going to solve that one, just go all auto meter guages maybe, also the engine driven pump is going to make start up a bitch, get an electric one thats for a carb performance engine soemthing that makes a nice 6 psi with good flow though

michanic220

alright, ill look around. thanks guys.
idk why they just wouldnt run it to the front wheels. seems like it would be more accurate and more easier there.

KasbeKZ

more accurate? at the tranny it basically finds the average between the speeds of the two back wheels. you can't beat that. on one front wheel, it would be off insignificantly when the car is turning.

lww

I don't believe I've ever heard of a speedo taking a signal directly from a wheel. Too much risk of damaging the "sender" in that location. The tranny is perfect. Just need to know what ratio your rear end is and adjust the size of the "cog" accordingly.

SHADY280

there is no problem matching it, they make a custom cable for it. i think its from msa. works great, and you get a carb pump mich, not the fuel injection pump. its way nicer and you need that space under the hood for the power steering pump lines, trust me! and if you dont already have it change over to rack and pinion, youll thank me later.

michanic220

i already have rack and pinion.

Zachrates

Yeah, that's good, then the headers from JTR will fit on the driver's side.

michanic220

would these hugger headers work? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SBC-2...spagenameZWDVW

SHADY280

nope, they kinda need to be shorter. its really tight, you get very little clearance, i mean like less than 1/2" all the way around the exhaust for the entire system, its like sticking a square peg in a round hole.

michanic220

ill make it fit =P
lmao. j/p.
ill figure somthing out im sure.
stock headers dont fit either im assuming?

SHADY280

ding ding ding, you get a cookie, you can also build custom ones. dont install the headers on the engine till its in the bay, you need that room to manuver it.

Zachrates

http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Datsun_Order.html

Second section from the bottom are the headers that I KNOW will fit.

Quite pricey though, but they work well.