280ZXT Aftermarket exhaust manifold... YUMMY!
 

Check this out suckas! This would be nice to have... would be easy to weld on an external wastegate flange too! Who ever made that had some skills... and balls!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsu...27054438QQrdZ1

http://i22.ebayimg.com/04/i/05/dd/a6/f1_1.JPG
http://i22.ebayimg.com/02/i/05/dd/a6/f5_1.JPG

$200 is not bad at all for stuff like that

Dont buy that. It's crap. It's made of a mild steel. Anything less than stainless is bound to crack on a turbo car. For an NA car it probably wouldnt be as much of a problem (I still wouldnt do it) but on a turbo you're just asking for it. Inconel would be best but it's a little more than stainless. But it will last even longer than stainless does. Not likely to crack an inconel manifold. But NEVER buy an exhaust manifold for a turbo car thats not atleast made of stainless. Unless of course it's a cast manifold.

Dont get me wrong, I'm not knocking the design or craftsmanship of that thing. I'm only knocking the poor choice of material the fabricator chose to use.

speackin of after market part's. what do ya'l thing about the Big Bore kit from Z Car Part's. I like it, but 2,000$ i think is pricey.

can be done for a lot less than $2k... Find an LD28 crank ($30 from a junk yard), then either 240sx or Chevy Cavelier pistons... and bearings... and ya set. There's write ups on the web... I don't have the links here @ work tho.


$2k or $300... depends on how much searching ya want to do.

EDIT... I guess I should add in... you'll still need to get the block punched out by a machine shop... even if you buy a big bore kit.

yeh, One day if not soon my motor will be rebuilt. I planed on boreing it over to 3.1. a nice stage two cam with power ban from 2,000-5,500 Rpm's, some roller rocker's, and a few more good part's. Keep it a N/A, and i would like to stay under 2,000$ if all possible. This car still has to be a daily driver, i am lookin for a RWHP for anywhere around 200-250, and i'll be happy. I still got to get good gas milage.

Ya know... I've never heard of anyone using roller rockers on a Z head, but have wondered if there were any that would work. Usually roller rockers are for non-ohc engines that use push rods. But I could see a benefit from Z rockers w/ rollers...

From my reading it seems the turbo maifold from the Euro 280zxt's is a pretty good choice, not that it really matters to me because I am no where near maxxing out the stock one.

Well, since were on that subject, I know a stroker kit can be sourced much cheeper then getting it from MSA but I was just curious if MSA sold different pistons with the kit for different applications like for turbocharged cars?
Thanks

I just remembered, I think S/C was going to make a turbo manifold for our cars.

:D Well I am the highest bidder.. That manifold would eliminate alot of measuring work.. :D Get it then hit it with a plasma cutter :eek:

You're welcome! :D We'll be callin ya "DR S/C" with all that dissecting & surgery!

LOL.. Thjanks.. we shall see.. if I win.. also who in the hell likes K26 if its not on a porsche?? 60-1 all the way :D

The big bore kit also requires 240Z rods other wise the rod angle gets all screwey and you cant use the 240SX pistons without em either or the piston will never hit the top of the combustion chamber.

Fubar... here's one good site about the 3.1 stroker. Bookmark this one:

http://zhome.com/rnt/3.1HanveyProject.htm

I ckecked it out, booked it, read it. Alot of good info there. If i were to go though with this bore, I know where a good turbo motor is, compleate, wel it's missin it's turbo, but every thing else is there.

Mild steel or stainless, all crack. The only way to get longevity from a tubular manifold is it needs a little extra bracing. Run a pice of whatever from the flange to a bolt on the block. That way you take the weight off the welds, and place them on a brace that is designed to hold the weight.

Oh and SC, if you buy it and chop it. Please measer each runner, equal length is better.

Speaking as someone who's built a stroked motor, I would recommend against it. For an NA car, you get a little more 'potential' out of it, but you have to do a lot of expensive head work to realize that potential.

For example, I know a guy that has ~$10,000 in his 3.2L NA motor from Rebello (a proven expert L series race motor builder) and he's getting 278 rear wheel hp. This thing has a full race ready top and bottom end and triple Mikuni 44's.

You can get 98% of the potential of the 3.1L Turbo from a 2.8L Turbo.

This is why he's going to fuel injected turbo's. Of course, on his 3.2L it'll have more potential, but maybe like 10 or 15% over a 2.8L turbo. Anyway, we'll find out how it goes over the next few months and I'll report back on the builds progress.

In my opinion, it's just not worth the effort or expense.

If you want crazy power, go FI turbo on a 2.8L block.

If you want NA, be happy with 200hp and some change and start removing weight.

Or, if you just want bragging rights, go for it. But understand, the bragging may come to an end when the audience hears how much your 3+L build cost and the final HP numbers you're making...

I gots to agree with L-Dub on this one. The man knows what he is talking about. If you want mad power, spoolers are the only way without breaking the bank on a N/A build that still won't match the power potential. Plus, Spoolers just SOUND so much better! Woooooooooooooooosh, pahhhhh, Woooooooooooooooooosh!

Rod.

cough... to bring this back on topic... S/C: here's another pic I dug up from my archives. I don't remember where I got it, but it look purdy! :D

Is that just a picture, or is that your manifold ??????

Naw... I still have the stock L28ET manifold. That's a pic I found on the internet a long time ago. Looks like a spiderweb!

EDIT... no, it looks like those stupid electronic spider things on the Matrix (dunno their real name... I hate that movie :D )

2 days to go and I am still the highest bidder :p

sentinels or something like that. It's been a while since I've watched the matrix.

I am still the highest bidder.. hope I get it..

I am still winning:D.. This will make it a breeze to do my own

Instead of inconel, you could use platinum or gold, both have great corrosion resistance......

Send me the material & I'll make one!

I am actually in the works for building a stainless turbo manifold. Inconel would be outrageous in price (more than just a little more). The problem isn't so much with cracking but corrosion with mild steel. They will all crack about the same. At high temps, which turbo cars easily reach when raced, mild steel will badly oxidize and flake off. With repeated use, it will actually errode clear away and make holes, or get weak and crack. Can't quite seem to get the picture link to work, but look in my gallery for a pic of what it will look like.

If the weight of the turbo and rest of the exhaust system is braced properly then cracking wouldnt be as much of an issue. But the extreme heat a turbo manifold generates with all that extra weight hanging from causes too much stress on the manifold which is what will cause it to crack. Stainless is a more durable metal then mild as well as having a higher temperature resistance. And inconel has an even higher temperature resistance. But yeah I guess the "little" part was kind of an understatement. The best thing you can do for a turbo manifold is weld in some bracing to help support the weight of the turbo. Good TIG welding with good penetration and back gassing will also help to increase the chances that the welds dont crack either. MIG will do the trick but it's ease of use cause a lot of people to incomplete welds cause of the fear of burning through. You can be a lot more accurate with TIG and the odds of burning through with TIG are close to zero. proper choice of welding rod and preperationg of the metal and rod is also a step that can lead to cracked welds if not precaution isn't taken. But mild steel in a turbo application WILL end up cracking before a more heat resistant metal. It's not just about corrosion. Mild steel just cant handle the heat & stress the way stainless (and not all stainless either) and inconel can.

Mild steel actually has a longer fatigue life than stainless. Mild steel also has less expansion with heat than stainless too. It is only a matter of corrosion resistance that makes stainless the better choice.

actually there is a lot more to it then just corrosion resistance.
I'll list off a few:

1) Stainless steel has a lower coefficient of thermal conductivity. In other words, it will transfer the exhaust heat down the pipe instead of into the engine compartment the way a mild steel will. Mild steel will conduct over 200x the amount of heat that stainless will.
2)That heat retention will cause a mild steel header to collapse on itself.
3)weight. A SS header can be made using much thinner wall tubing then mild steel tubing.

4)321 and 347 stainless have awesome fatigue resistance. I don't know which type of stainless you're referring to (there are a lot), but not all are meant for this type of application. Any other stainless is going to be cheaper but it's not going to be as high a quality for this particular app. My guess is most people use 304 cause it's the cheapest. This whats usually used in exhaust systems, but it's not qualified to be used as an turbo header material.

Now let me break this down for you:

Tensile strength of mild steel: 55,000psi
Tensile strength of 321 stainless: 90,000psi
Density of mild steel: 0.283 lb/in(sq)
Density of 321 stainless: 0.290 lb/in(sq)
Coefficient of thermal expansion: 7.228
Coefficient of thermal expansion: 9.6
Coefficient of thermal conductivity of mild steel: 26.98 BTU/ft(sq)
Coefficient of thermal conductivity of 321 stainless: 9.30 BTU/ft (sq)

Those numbers tell me this: Stainless is stronger and so is less likely to suffer fatigue from the weight of the turbo system. The stainless barely suffers from a higher thermal expansion rate but it has almost a 300% lower coefficient of conductivity. So the amount of heat neccessary to expand the stainless to failure would have destroyed the mild steel long before that. Not to mention the mild is far more stressed right off the bat just from having all that weight on it. Stainless has almost twice the tensile strenght so stress from the turbo weight is not as much of an issue.

Corrosion is the main concern in exhaust systems and in NA headers where the heat is not nearly as high. If you tried to use an NA type header with a turbo system then it would demolish itself.

good stuff to know for my Strength of Materials class next semester.

If Concerned About Weight, Why Not A Bracket That Holds The Turbo To The Block, Simmilar To The Cavilier Turbos. Without That Those Crack Everytime And There Even Stainless.

Yeah a good quality manifold thats actually had some thought put into it will have some sort of bracket to support the weight of the turbo. An easy way to do this is to join the turbo flange to the head flange with some steal rod. A race manifold can be re welded after every race and doesn't have to deal with day to day driving. It doesn't have to be durable, it only has to last the race. A flex pipe after the downpipe will also aid in preventing cracks. Theres no point in this debate, it's not like anyone was arguing with the fact that stainless is a better choice. On an inline 6 though you have 6 runners all running to the same turbo flange. The weight gets distributed to all 6 runners so weight isn't as much of an issue with a stainless manifold on this car. A mild steal manifold will still be prone to failure however.

Like I stated above, all tubular manifolds will crack. Every manifold I have ever seen or had made for me cracks, It may take a couple years, but eventually it will crack. My 4g63 tubular manifold almost went 3 years and multiple engines, but in the end it cracked. And cracked bad. And that had 4 runners to hold up the turbo. It is just the way it goes. Try to think of manifolds as replacable parts, even though they can cost alot, they are only temporary and are a wearable part, just like brake pads

Thats why the manufacturers use cast manifolds or log type on occassion. It's just more durable.