dpadillaz

Hi, I recently bought a 1983 280zx n/a, three months ago. The car had problems which I expected (it sat for about a year or so. It runs fine until it reaches normal operating temperature, where it starts to bog and sputter. It idles just fine around 1,000 rpms, it's only when accelerating that it starts to bog, but then accelerates like normal around 5/6 thousand rpms
Parts I've replaced so far
-Caddy Converter
-Spark plugs & wires
-fuel filter
-MAF
-Thermostat
-O2 sensor
-Distributor & cap & rotor
-And ECU

Ive let the TPS sit overnight in rice to try and get any moisture that mightve gotten into out. Didn't help. Fuel pump & ignition coil seem to be fine. I thought for sure the ECU would fix it after seeing that a new ECU fixed the same problem for other 280s. It didn't, and now my dashboard lights won't go on. I've about had it with the bogging and I'm tired of putting money into a problem that wont fix. Would really appreciate the help here... New to the Z community

rogerz

replace the chts. located on left side of engine between #5 and #6 plug. check wiring to it. When trying to buy one at NAPA and probably other sites look for Coolant Temp sensor which is a two wire device. the actual coolant temp sensor for the console gage is a one wire device. if that doesn't fix things try disconnecting the O2 sensor and see if that fixes the problem.

Napa link
NAPA AUTO PARTS

when installing just snug it down. If you over tighten it you risk damaging the unit. it is in a dry hole and just needs to have good conact to the block wall. they also have new connectors if that is damaged.

tps has nothing to do with your problem

after that you are pretty much down to AFM problem. check your fuel pressure with a gage between the filter and the fuel ring. a bad fpr can cause that issue also.

dpadillaz

Replaced CTS on the side of engine... Still bogging :/ could it be the sensor on the head of the engine? and are they the same/interchangeable?

rogerz

NO. read my post. is english your second language or something?

dpadillaz

Yes it is

rogerz

ok then one wire you do know what one means yes. that is the coolant temp on the dash. two wire sensor - that inputs to the ecu. but you have another problem unless the wiring back to the ecu is bad. get the fsm from xenonzcar and look at the schematic. you probably have fuel delivery problems or the AFM output to the ecu is faulty. you need your fuel pressure. quick check for vacuum leaks with the engine idling pull the oil filler cap if the idle stays steady you have a vac leak. if the engine idles worse you may not have a vacuum leak. vacuum leak is the bane of a fuel injected engine.

some more advice: Get your battery load tested. Be sure you have clean, tight corrosion free terminals on both ends of your battery cables. Be sure the ground (negative) cable goes to a bolt into the frame before going to the starter. grounding through the starter is not a reliable connection. Z's don't like low voltage. causes the electronics to act funny. it is possible to have enough amps to crank but not enough voltage to run the electronics. If you have one size fit all cheapo clamp on terminals they are a problem waiting to happen. Usually on a rainy night around Oh Dark Thirty.

Clean the connectors for the maf or afm, ecu and tps. Deoxit by CAIG is probably the best connector cleaner on the market. spray with CorrosionX after cleaning and before putting together this will help prevent any further corrosion. DON'T USE DIELECTRIC GREASE.

Replace outer tie rod ends, and ball joints. replace the bushings with poly (don't forget to lube them as directed unless you like squeaky things). New shocks. Get new boots for power steering. all those things will make you think you are driving a different car. doing them piece meal is a waste you won't see a great improvement until you do the complete job. You need to get the car realigned after messing with the front. Have your tires in good shape and rebalance. Rear bushings nice too but more work and you won't notice as great an improvement. Rear shocks also because if the fronts are gone so are the rears. if car squats when you jump on the gas the rears are gone. If you have the electro adjustable shocks they are DEFINITELY GONE.