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Speaker installation howto and relay issues?

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Old 12-29-2012, 12:51 AM
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Speaker installation howto and relay issues?

I have a 1983 datsun 280zx, the digtal dash model. the two front speakers in the dash are blown, what is the best and easiest way to replace those two front speakers?


Also I think I may be having relay issues, my left turn signal works, that is, until I turn on my headlight, then the left turn signal light remains solid and doesn't blink, whether I use it or not, its just stuck. could it be a relay issue?
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Old 12-29-2012, 12:55 AM
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there were also other components that were once working, but no lknger work, such as the automatic closing door switch (the open one works), the ceuise control, the radio will just deactivate randomly, the AC fan doesn't work anymore either (its so cold now, I need my heater fan!)

also I'm on a tablet, I apologise for any errors if I mistype.
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Old 12-29-2012, 12:56 AM
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After busting every knuckle and 3 days of being upside down buried in the dash. Give up!!! I rewired a new head unit in and stuffed a 6x9 in the glove box. Belive it or not it sounds just fine on 3 speakers That and again I jam to Motley crue and Deff Leppard I guess if you want that rap stuff going on better find an installer.
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Old 12-29-2012, 12:59 AM
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For the rest of your issues.........Its a Z lol! Check fuses ? did you yank out a wire while working on the dash?
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Old 12-29-2012, 08:26 AM
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Pulled my dash speakers (had to remove the dash) and glasses over the holes for them. Installed 6x9's behind the seats and a 12" sub in the spare tire cover. Both powers by individual amps and an aftermarket head unit. Works great for me!

For theT blinker: with the headlights on, does it remain dim, or bright? (ie is the blinker stuck "on", or "off"?

Not sure about the door switch, honestly.

The cruise control works off of vacuum. Have fun with that! Mine just regulates my idle speed with the adjustment it has untill I install my 60mm tb.

Heater doesn't work, but the ac does....could be heater core, I'm thinking? Maybe flow to the core is restricted? I'm sure someone with more knowledge will chime in.


Also, what condition are your battery cables in? If they look iffy or corroded, get some new ones! Our cars like plenty of juice.


Side note for The turn signal issue: have you inspected Tue turn signal/headlight switch? They usually have a good bit of power run through them and burn out/melt.


Apologies for any mistyped, I'm on my phone. Any Tue is actually a the.
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Old 12-29-2012, 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by MurphyEF
Pulled my dash speakers (had to remove the dash) and glasses over the holes for them. Installed 6x9's behind the seats and a 12" sub in the spare tire cover. Both powers by individual amps and an aftermarket head unit. Works great for me!

For theT blinker: with the headlights on, does it remain dim, or bright? (ie is the blinker stuck "on", or "off"?

Not sure about the door switch, honestly.

The cruise control works off of vacuum. Have fun with that! Mine just regulates my idle speed with the adjustment it has untill I install my 60mm tb.

Heater doesn't work, but the ac does....could be heater core, I'm thinking? Maybe flow to the core is restricted? I'm sure someone with more knowledge will chime in.


Also, what condition are your battery cables in? If they look iffy or corroded, get some new ones! Our cars like plenty of juice.


Side note for The turn signal issue: have you inspected Tue turn signal/headlight switch? They usually have a good bit of power run through them and burn out/melt.


Apologies for any mistyped, I'm on my phone. Any Tue is actually a the.
The headlight switch just stays on, I guess a little dimmer, there is no blinking at all...
Except, if I turn off my headlight, the left turn signal will start to function normally.

As for the AC, sorry for the misunderstanding, but what I meant to say was the AC/fan/heater; the whole thing is just dead. Even when I press the recirculation button, it doesn't light up.

Could you post a step by step on how you yanked that dash safely :-)
Oh and how easy is it to remove the stock radio?
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Old 12-30-2012, 10:50 AM
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Dash is held in by some misc bolts and screws. start by removing the headlight switch housing, the steering wheel, and the headlight switch itself for ease of access.Remove the kick plates (2 screws each). remove the beauty covers (if you still have them) from the base of the radio housing. remove the (4? 6?) bolts that keep the radio housing mounted to the vehicle (will be on either side where your knee would be in either seat). careful with the radio wires (not sure on the removal of a stocker, someone else def. needs to chime in). after that is removed,there are two bolts down below (one near the ECU, one near the fuses) that need to be removed. then, under 4 beauty plugs near the windshield are 4 screws, those need to be removed. after that, start to separate the dash from the car. be mindful of the groups of wires behind the dash that will have to be unplugged as you go. a friend is a good thing to have while removing the dash, and you will get faster the more you remove it. When I removed my dash, I found out I was missing a good portion of hardware that helped secure it.


as for the ac/heater, when you remove the passenger kickplate (or after the dash) check the wiring that goes to the bottom of the housing unit. I had mine stop one day, found a plug my buddy had kicked that dropped all power to it, it was "T" shaped with two wires running to it.


Check your headlight switch for corrosion while it's off. also look for any melting.
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Old 01-02-2013, 08:38 AM
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Originally Posted by MurphyEF
Dash is held in by some misc bolts and screws. start by removing the headlight switch housing, the steering wheel, and the headlight switch itself for ease of access.Remove the kick plates (2 screws each). remove the beauty covers (if you still have them) from the base of the radio housing. remove the (4? 6?) bolts that keep the radio housing mounted to the vehicle (will be on either side where your knee would be in either seat). careful with the radio wires (not sure on the removal of a stocker, someone else def. needs to chime in). after that is removed,there are two bolts down below (one near the ECU, one near the fuses) that need to be removed. then, under 4 beauty plugs near the windshield are 4 screws, those need to be removed. after that, start to separate the dash from the car. be mindful of the groups of wires behind the dash that will have to be unplugged as you go. a friend is a good thing to have while removing the dash, and you will get faster the more you remove it. When I removed my dash, I found out I was missing a good portion of hardware that helped secure it.


as for the ac/heater, when you remove the passenger kickplate (or after the dash) check the wiring that goes to the bottom of the housing unit. I had mine stop one day, found a plug my buddy had kicked that dropped all power to it, it was "T" shaped with two wires running to it.


Check your headlight switch for corrosion while it's off. also look for any melting.
This is a great guide. It may be wise to pickup a repair manual for your car, they come in handy here and there.
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